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  #11  
Old 03-04-2012, 07:04 PM
ncbird ncbird is offline
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If you missed my post earlier in this thread the bracket bolted to the firewall is the original booster bracket. I removed from a srock non-air firewall booster. That is why I can use the stock hockey stick etc because it all fits in the stock firewall bracket. The modified jeep bracket is the one between the new booster and original ford bracket. The second bracket is needed to move the new booster out due to the big snout and adj rod. The jeep bracket was about 3 1/2 in long to begin with and positioned the boooster farther out then I neede. to Remember an original booster gave up its life for this so if you don't have one that's an added expense. John said he had a couple he could use if he needed to. Thanks Dave for the kind words. How are you cutting the lines with out deforming them? Do you have to clean up the flare with some 320 paper after flairing them?
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  #12  
Old 03-04-2012, 07:59 PM
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Grant,

Thanks for posting the great pictures. I'll make sure I keep them for reference as I probably won't be doing the conversion for awhile and I'm sure I'll forget who posted them.

John
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  #13  
Old 03-04-2012, 09:16 PM
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As luck would have it, I have an original bendix booster on my parts car. I will use it as a start to fabricate one that fits my convertible with A/C. I may need to move mine out further because of a A/C, so the Jeep unit may work fine as is. I just found a jeep bracket on EBay for $39.00 including shipping, so I took a chance and bought it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ncbird View Post
If you missed my post earlier in this thread the bracket bolted to the firewall is the original booster bracket. I removed from a srock non-air firewall booster. That is why I can use the stock hockey stick etc because it all fits in the stock firewall bracket. The modified jeep bracket is the one between the new booster and original ford bracket. The second bracket is needed to move the new booster out due to the big snout and adj rod. The jeep bracket was about 3 1/2 in long to begin with and positioned the boooster farther out then I neede. to Remember an original booster gave up its life for this so if you don't have one that's an added expense. John said he had a couple he could use if he needed to. Thanks Dave for the kind words. How are you cutting the lines with out deforming them? Do you have to clean up the flare with some 320 paper after flairing them?

Last edited by lawyercalif : 03-04-2012 at 09:42 PM.
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  #14  
Old 03-04-2012, 10:02 PM
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In case anyone else decides to do this morris 4x4 sells the bracket for around 12 dollars plus shipping MBM-B7495. I will post a picture of the full jeep/original bracket.
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Last edited by ncbird : 03-04-2012 at 10:12 PM.
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  #15  
Old 03-05-2012, 06:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ncbird View Post
...How are you cutting the lines with out deforming them?..
Grant, it's as easy as you would expect:
Cut with a simple tube cutter (because it must be a straight cut). Cunifer is not as mushy as copper. Simply slide on a nut, put the tubing in a cheap Harbor Freight inverted flaring tool with the end sticking out, the length of the first step on this little black 'hat'. Then clamp tight, and flare with this 'hat' in the tube.



This is the first flaring operation. If we were doing European cars, we'd be done right here.

This is what it looks like:


Here's the second and final step:


Here's the finished inverted flare. Notice the nut is on the tube, in the background.


If the flare was bent using too much tube sticking out, you may use a drill bit to deburr the hole. - Dave
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  #16  
Old 03-06-2012, 10:46 AM
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Been traveling guys - so sorry about being late to the show.....

I added A/C to a non-A/C car - the booster needs to move outward 1 3/4 inches. That will give you "almost" 1/4 inch clearance between the booster bracket and the factory style A/C evap. plenum on the firewall and 3/4 inch between the booster and the valve cover. Don't forget that the pedal "rod" will need to be lengthened by the same amount or replaced with an adjustable one to have the same pedal height when the booster is moved out. The booster does not "have" to move up but for ease of installing the bolts on the newly made bracket I would suggest about 1 inch or a little better on the height.

My booster is a rebuilt stock unit with the modified face to accept a modern style master cyl. (Booster Dewy) Never had any trouble with the boost feeling insufficient. Maybe less pedal pressure is needed with the newer dual style boosters but my system feels just as it did before (same amount of pedal pressure needed to stop the car) only with the disc's it stops in a straight line - as many times as I want to.

It's been a while since I did mine (wow! - almost 6 years?) but I believe I used a 72-77 Lincoln Mark V master cyl to fit the modified booster. Probably could have looked around and found one where the lines came out on the fender side (Mustang?) rather than the motor side but I was glad to find one that worked. I used a common plumbing washer to seal between the master cyl and the booster. I can get that seal number later if any one wants the info.

Grant - the set-up looks great. It would have been so much easier to add the spacer bracket in between the stock bracket and booster but as you mentioned they are riveted together. Didn't want to tear into a newly rebuilt booster so had to add mine where the dealer would have added the spacer if they were adding A/C to a car - between the firewall and booster bracket.

Looking at your pics again - you might want to consider putting the proportioning valve on top of the mounting bracket if it will fit there - the bracket would act as a heat shield for the proportioning valve rather than having the valve closer to the manifold.?. Mine was really close to the manifold so I remotely mounted my proportioning valve down on the frame.

Eric
registry 5347





Last edited by DKheld : 03-06-2012 at 10:48 AM.
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  #17  
Old 03-06-2012, 04:13 PM
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Eric,

Do you remember if he charged you extra for modifying the face above the prices that he has posted.

John
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  #18  
Old 03-06-2012, 06:09 PM
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I talked to Dewey and he is going to charge you for the new face over and above what it costs to rebuild your booster. I have a booster that he had done and it was going to be just as expensive to have him just put a plate on the one I had as if he was rebuilding it again. That is why I had a second booster to send him. I finally decided that it was more cost effective to get the OID booster/MC and remove the brackets from the second "core" booster I had. I have to say I am very happy with my decision which I made after a lot of research.
Grant
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  #19  
Old 03-06-2012, 10:00 PM
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X2 on Grant's comments. I wanted to keep my original booster so I just ordered one already rebuilt and modified from Dewy. In the initial call he was going to charge $50 extra for the modification. Think mine was about $300 including shipping but that was 6+ years ago and I was blazing new ground - you just couldn't find anything - Dewy was the only one I could find that knew what I needed - prices may be a little less now.?.

Dewy doesn't actually modify your booster face but replaces it with an exact replacement model that has the 2 studs rather than the current 4 small ones - may be from a Lincoln but never was able to find out.

His site currently shows $135 to rebuild + whatever the going rate is for the mod (probably still $50 ?) so you are looking at $185 + shipping if you send yours. I bought the master cyl from Advance for about $20.

http://boosterdeweyexchange.com/

Advantage is ease of fit - it's original so no mods to get it to fit unless you extend it to miss the evap box. Then you only have to lengthen the pedal rod as I did (just cut in the middle and welded in an extra 1 3/4) and add the extender bracket.

Disadvantage is if the booster went bad after the 1 year warranty you would have to pay $135 for a rebuild rather than hopping down to NAPA or Advance for a cheaper replacement booster. Mine has worked flawlessly all the time I have had it. I should have worked out a deal with Dewy - so much per plug for his work - he'd be owing me money now....heh heh.

Has anyone supplied a replacement booster part number or price for the new ones? - not complaining - just curious. can you get one at NAPA, Advance etc or do you have to go back to OID?

Eric



Guess the secret is out. This has to be it.....a '61 - '64 Lincoln booster. You could probably cut the old Tbird booster off the brackets and use this one but it is $220 + shipping yours in for rebuild - free return shipping if I read it correctly.
ebay Item 220969959890

Last edited by DKheld : 03-06-2012 at 10:16 PM. Reason: Found something interesting
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  #20  
Old 04-06-2012, 08:27 PM
lawyercalif lawyercalif is offline
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I am in the process of trying the same thing. Using the same booster & MC. Taking Grants idea a bit further I am leaving the Jeep bracket it's original size and mating it to the original TBird Bendix Booster Bracket. That moves it almost seven inches forward and about 3 1/2 inches up. I have taken preliminary measurements on my 59 with Air and it all looks like it will fit.
I am waiting for the booster and MC to arrive then I will check again.

My plan B if it doesn't clear the valve cover is to make a new attachment that will allow me to rotate the whole bracket clockwise about 30 - 45 degrees which would then move everything closer to the drivers side inner fender and away from the valve cover and the AC box.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ncbird View Post
John, here are a couple of pictures of my setup during mock up. I have been taking it on and off while working on the brake lines so yes the nuts are loose. This is the unit Dave mentioned except mine has a cosmetic upgrade. I looked at several options and finally decided that for me this was the most cost effective. The bracket extension is an MBM bracket for a Jeep that I cut down and had tig welded. Note that the adjusting rod fits the stock bell crank with adjustment available. Grant





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