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  #121  
Old 10-22-2012, 01:32 AM
NYsquarebird58 NYsquarebird58 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gaffney1951 View Post
nice lighting for the pics. Mike
Thank you!
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  #122  
Old 10-22-2012, 08:31 AM
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Beautiful Job !!
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Mike Lemmon
'59 Raven Black Hardtop

http://www.tbirdregistry.com/viewdat...tryNumber=2461
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  #123  
Old 10-28-2012, 02:19 AM
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Installed the Pertronix and a new coil today in hopes that it would correct the drivability issue I’ve been having. Other than the engine starting faster and a bit snappier throttle response, it appears to behave just as before.

For those that don’t know my situation; the car doesn’t seem to have much power. The car bogs down at wide open throttle or under a load and doesn’t seem to get a chance to downshift. In D1, she upshifts fine, but under a load, she’s very sluggish. Would the vacuum advance have anything to do with this? I wanted to replace vacuum advance, but one of the two screws broke and now I can’t get it off.

I knew once I popped off the cap that my issue wasn’t the points, cap or rotor because they look brand new.



The weights moved freely. Per the instructions, I cleaned the surface with acetone to ensure the igniter box has a good ground.


I properly gapped the unit using the clear shim provided in the kit.


Here’s the old coil. I’m a little confused with the terminology. The coil is not marked – or +. Instead, one side is marked “DIST” and the other “BAT”. I would think the side marked “DIST” is + and the side marked “BAT” is -, but why would they call the negative side battery? Anyway, on the new coil I hooked up the pink resister wire from the ignition switch to the + side and the black wire from the igniter to the – side per the instructions, so it should be OK.
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  #124  
Old 10-28-2012, 02:35 AM
NYsquarebird58 NYsquarebird58 is offline
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The car has a new tank, sending unit, fuel lines, fuel pump and the carburetor is about 2 years old. The plugs, wires, rotor and cap look pretty new, but I did not install them.
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  #125  
Old 10-28-2012, 02:45 AM
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Please visit my site to see Penelope's new distributor. CLICK HERE

As we discussed, what's the slop in your timing chain? Did you rotate the crank by hand to check it?

I know your odometer shows 50k. If it does have 150k, there is a remote possibility that your timing chain has jumped a tooth. That's why you need to check degrees of slop.

There are other reasons for a sluggish engine besides the distributor advance:
Tired and leaky valves
Low compression
Low vacuum
worn camshaft
restricted air intake
restricted exhaust (including a stuck heat riser valve)
restricted fuel delivery (including semi-clogged gas filter or pinched hose)
mis-adjusted transmission linkage at your intake manifold.

Most of these topics are covered in the Shop Manual. - Dave
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  #126  
Old 10-28-2012, 03:11 AM
NYsquarebird58 NYsquarebird58 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
Please visit my site to see Penelope's new distributor. CLICK HERE

As we discussed, what's the slop in your timing chain? Did you rotate the crank by hand to check it?

I know your odometer shows 50k. If it does have 150k, there is a remote possibility that your timing chain has jumped a tooth. That's why you need to check degrees of slop.

There are other reasons for a sluggish engine besides the distributor advance:
Tired and leaky valves
Low compression
Low vacuum
worn camshaft
restricted air intake
restricted exhaust (including a stuck heat riser valve)
restricted fuel delivery (including semi-clogged gas filter or pinched hose)
mis-adjusted transmission linkage at your intake manifold.

Most of these topics are covered in the Shop Manual. - Dave
Dave, thanks for the checklist. I donít know where my brain was today, I completely forgot to check the slop on the timing chain. I had to run out and pick up a waterproof car cover to protect Lucille from Sandyís rain. Looks like itís going to start raining tomorrow, so Iíll have to run some diagnostics next week.
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  #127  
Old 10-28-2012, 05:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NYsquarebird58 View Post
...I wanted to replace vacuum advance, but one of the two screws broke and now I canít get it off.

...The weights moved freely. Per the instructions, I cleaned the surface with acetone to ensure the igniter box has a good ground...
Wait a minute... if you never took the vacuum advance off, you couldn't have taken the pivot plate off to inspect the weights or springs underneath.

Buy a new vacuum advance from Rock Auto. Yours looks terrible. Most of them don't last fifty years. While you're at it, get two of the 'weaker' advance springs. This distributor needs help. I suggest you pull the distributor out and inspect the bearings while you're at it.

It's not unusual for these screws to break. The housing is aluminum which reacts with steel screws (I use stainless or brass). You may need to grind the screws off and re-tap the holes. It's important to get to the bottom, and my post shows you how. - Dave
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CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

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  #128  
Old 11-11-2012, 09:04 PM
NYsquarebird58 NYsquarebird58 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
Please visit my site to see Penelope's new distributor. CLICK HERE

As we discussed, what's the slop in your timing chain? Did you rotate the crank by hand to check it?

I know your odometer shows 50k. If it does have 150k, there is a remote possibility that your timing chain has jumped a tooth. That's why you need to check degrees of slop.

There are other reasons for a sluggish engine besides the distributor advance:
Tired and leaky valves
Low compression
Low vacuum
worn camshaft
restricted air intake
restricted exhaust (including a stuck heat riser valve)
restricted fuel delivery (including semi-clogged gas filter or pinched hose)
mis-adjusted transmission linkage at your intake manifold.

Most of these topics are covered in the Shop Manual. - Dave
We hit a high of 61 today so I figured Iíd get back outside and start diagnosing my power loss issue. I started with the heat riser valve. It looks like itís missing some pieces externally. At first I tried a pair of pliers to see if I could get the valve to move, but that didnít work. I then tried a pair of vise-grips, but all that did was chew things up. At this point, one thing I knew for certain was that the valve was stuck. I didnít know if it was stuck open or closed, so I decided to pull the valve off. The valve is seized pretty good and it looks like itís not completely open, but I donít think itís closed enough to cause the kind of power loss Iím experiencing so Iíll keep going down Dave's checklist until I find the root cause.

I heard someone makes a spacer for the heat riser valve. Does anyone know where I can get one?









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  #129  
Old 11-11-2012, 09:45 PM
NYsquarebird58 NYsquarebird58 is offline
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Mac's sells the spacer for $22.95. I'm gonna pick one up.

Part# B9AE-9A427-SP
Attached Images
File Type: jpg B9AE-9A427-SP_pJPG.JPG (23.1 KB, 172 views)
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  #130  
Old 11-11-2012, 09:51 PM
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These folks have them ( http://www.concoursparts.com/ ) - item B9AE-9A427-SP but you already have what you need.

Cut the vane out, cut the shaft in the center then pull the shafts out and weld up the holes - viola - spacer (and you already know it is the right size)

I'm with Dave on the linkage but with that different carb than original it might be hard to get it adjusted just right - wouldn't know where to start myself.

Are the secondaries vacuum operated on that carb or mechanical?

After seeing your brake work though - I know you'll find the problem.....just a matter of when. I'll be following along to see what it is.

Eric
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