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  #11  
Old 02-24-2012, 11:46 PM
Ca58tbird Ca58tbird is offline
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My recollection is that I had purchased 1/4" un-tempered hardboard. Tempered hardboard is sometimes referred to as the brandname masonite. You want un-tempered stuff. Tempered is to heavy and to brittle. I have not ever seen a '60 door panel, only the 58 straight model. However if you want to curve or radius un-tempered hardboard what you would or could do is;

- make a series of linear cuts 1/2 way thru the board, maybe 1/2" apart from each other. Make 6 or 8 such cuts with a table saw. This will allow the board to be bent or curved at the cut lines.
- devise some type of clamping or holding device to hold the board in the correct curvature
- while the board is curved liberally brush on on coat of epoxy clear resin. let it saturate and cure fully.
- keeping the board still clamped and curved, brush or trowel on a thickened coating of epoxy or vinylester resin and let cure.
- release the clamps and you'll have a permanent curve.

thicken the resin with a mixture of thixotropic cabosil fumed silica and silbrico32 micro balloons. resin thickening can also be done with finely chopped fiberglass strands as well.

Check our www.expresscomposites.com for all of your resin, reinforcement and filler needs. They're located in Mpls., MN
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  #12  
Old 02-25-2012, 10:21 AM
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I believe you would want 1/8" hardboard and not 1/4". That would be a little too wide to use for door panels. The original panels are 1/8".
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  #13  
Old 02-25-2012, 06:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jopizz View Post
I believe you would want 1/8" hardboard and not 1/4". That would be a little too wide to use for door panels. The original panels are 1/8".
The original panels off my 58 were 1/4". I replaced them with 1/4" untempered hardboard. Previously I had written about cutting, bending, resin filling and radiusing panels. 1/8" panels would be probably too thin for this operation as one would have to cut 1/16" strip cuts, which wouldn't have much effect as to the epoxy resin anchoring process. 1/4" panels would allow 1/8" strip cuts which would give the epoxy bonding a little more grip. You will see two pics below. #1 is the original panels and #2 are the replacement panels I had fabricated. By super enlarging the pics you will see the edges (thickness) is 1/4"
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DOOR2.JPG (59.9 KB, 55 views)
File Type: jpg DOOR4.JPG (43.1 KB, 55 views)
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  #14  
Old 02-25-2012, 07:01 PM
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I took a piece of my old door panel to Lowes and measured the thickness against what they had and it was definitely 1/8. The 1/4 looked too wide to fit in the bottom channel. The narrative that you sent me a while back said that you used 3/16 but would use 1/8 if you did it again.

Last edited by jopizz : 02-25-2012 at 07:06 PM.
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  #15  
Old 02-25-2012, 10:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jopizz View Post
I took a piece of my old door panel to Lowes and measured the thickness against what they had and it was definitely 1/8. The 1/4 looked too wide to fit in the bottom channel. The narrative that you sent me a while back said that you used 3/16 but would use 1/8 if you did it again.
Yes indeed you may be correct in the 3/16 thickness. Guess my digital enhancement of the photograph didn't allow for exact gauge measurements. Thinking back for what I had done, yes indeed 1/8" maybe optimum for the staight panels. However still I must think that the 1/8" would not accept deep enough groove cuts to bend and then resin. The 3/16 would be a toss up.

However I just thought of something else based upon my experience in laminating fiberglass and resin for marine applications. Below is a pic listing 3 core materials. All can be saturated with polyester resin on a mold and will create any contour you desire. They'd be perfect for doing the '60 curved door panels. This stuff is available at expresscomposites.com
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File Type: jpg COREMAT.JPG (48.8 KB, 54 views)
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  #16  
Old 02-25-2012, 10:52 PM
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You definitely couldn't use 1/8 if you were thinking about slicing and bending it. Do you think it's possible to cut the curved part off the top of the old panel and somehow epoxy it onto a flat piece.
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  #17  
Old 02-25-2012, 11:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jopizz View Post
You definitely couldn't use 1/8 if you were thinking about slicing and bending it. Do you think it's possible to cut the curved part off the top of the old panel and somehow epoxy it onto a flat piece.
Yes definitely that could be done by simply laminating the old top piece to the new bottom piece. I would suggest using a mat cloth on both sides or even better would be a fiberglass cloth called Double bias mat cloth. Use either epoxy resin or vinylester resin as polyester resin doesn't do too well directly onto wood products.
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  #18  
Old 02-25-2012, 11:50 PM
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Here are some pictures of what I'm talking about, guys.







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  #19  
Old 02-26-2012, 01:16 AM
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It looks like it's been recovered once already in plain red vinyl. The bottom isn't nearly as bad as most I've seen. You have a couple choices. Find some red vinyl and put a strip on the bottom but it probably won't match or recover the whole thing in new vinyl. If you do that it still won't have the correct embossed pattern like the factory vinyl did. It depends on what level of detail you want. If you want a panel that looks original your only choices are to find a good used one or buy new ones. I have the same problem with my '59. I have a good passenger side and a bad drivers side. If I recover the drivers side it won't match the factory pattern. And I don't feel like putting out $550-600 for new ones.
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  #20  
Old 02-26-2012, 02:52 AM
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I have a set here that are in good condition, I bought a new set from Concourse.
I have no use for them but think the freight (back) to the US might be the killer.
They are black and white
I have all 6 cards

Richard
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