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  #11  
Old 11-09-2011, 03:26 PM
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I understand, completely... I have a snow blower that I've been putting off. The electric start motor turns, but doesn't engage to run the engine. I sure don't want to pull that **** rope all winter.

Electrical systems (and relay logic) is my forte. Let's get together with proper schematics and put your problems to bed. The more you run your top, the better it gets because all the contacts clean themselves as they pass power. There are no solid state componenets, which makes your system nearly bulletproof.

Call and we will set up a time to fix your top. - Dave
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  #12  
Old 04-15-2012, 06:09 PM
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Ok, so I had a little time to play with it this afternoon and I got it open. But, it just worked (eventually), so I'm afraid to close the trunk again because I don't know really what's wrong.

I pulled the back seat and tried to cycle the top. Top was in the trunk, deck lid closed. I pushed the control forward to raise the top and heard a clunk from the relay panel (it seemed) but nothing else. If I pulled on it (to lower the top) I could hear the lock motor run to screw the deck lid down, even though it was already down. It sounded like it was skipping on the threads, which I assume it shouldn't do. It shouldn't run if the deck lid is closed, right?

I got out the manual and read it a bit and assumed that it may be the the deck unlock relay was energizing but not providing power. I pulled the plug on it and reseated it and tried it again. It seemed to thunk a bit louder, but it could have been my imagination. Didn't matter, it still didn't open.

I wondered if I was getting adequate voltage from the battery since it had sat all winter, so I hooked up my battery charger and tried it again. Nothing for 2-3 times and then, voila!, it opened.

Once it started, it worked fine. I opened the decklid and then closed it part way and repeated that. The screw drives were turning and the deck lid was moving fine. I have it propped open now, however, because I'm afraid that it won't re-open again.

Is there a way to test it without actually closing it? I guess I was thinking if I had someone cycle the switch while I pushed the deck closed limit switch, I should be able to simulate closing the deck lid without actually closing the deck lid. Is that right?

Dave - -I owe you a phone call, I haven't forgotten.
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  #13  
Old 04-15-2012, 09:43 PM
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It sounds like you're on the right track with the deck unlock relay. You can test it with the trunk lid open by pushing down on the deck close limit switch next to the lock cylinder and hitting the top switch. Make sure the deck lid is not fully open. 3/4 is fine. Only the screw locks should turn with the top switch up or down.The sounds you hear from the screw locks with the deck closed is normal. The locks have a ratchet type mechanism that prevent them from tightening too much. They will continue to turn if you keep the switch on. This is normal.

Last edited by jopizz : 04-15-2012 at 09:59 PM.
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  #14  
Old 04-16-2012, 02:23 AM
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jopizz is right. Relay components works best when cycled (a lot). You should 'exercise' the contacts under power. Limit switches have contacts and so do relays and toggle switches. They are **** near bulletproof and very hearty. Electrical spikes never affect them but dirt and non-use will easily hold back 12-volts. When contacts open under load, they clean themselves. This is a two or three-person job. While someone is pushing your 'top' switch, you need to toggle each limit by hand. Have the third person do the other side from you at the same time.

Doug, you don't owe me a call... I'm just glad your system is ok. Actually, there seems to be NOTHING wrong with it (except it needs a little PM).

I hope you change ALL your fluids (top motor fluid, brake fluid, and yes.. antifreeze). I won't mention stale gas. Check your battery.

The weather is getting much better now, so git-r-done. - Dave
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  #15  
Old 04-16-2012, 12:12 PM
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Thanks Dave. I just didn't want you to think I was dismissing your generous offer to run through it with me on the phone.

My system's typically only gets run twice a year, down in the spring, up in the fall and maybe trunk access a couple times more. I guess I ought to cycle it more often to keep things clean. How often should I cycle the top, weelky, monthly?

Can you elaborate what you mean by 'under power' and 'under load'? Are you referring to the mechanical load of moving the top and deck lid or the electrical load?

And how would you recommend toggling the limit switches, is there a particular order that should be done? I'm thinking it might be bad to cycle them out of sequence, creating a condition that wouldn't be possible, like closing the top up and top down switches simultaneously.

I guess I could just run the system except for closing the deck lid, cycling that one manually so I don't get back in a situation where I can't access the trunk. Once it runs a few cycles without error, then I could close it back up.
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  #16  
Old 04-16-2012, 12:51 PM
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Thanks for ignoring my troubleshooting suggestions. Sorry I wasted my time answering.
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  #17  
Old 04-16-2012, 01:02 PM
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jopiszz, sorry to offend, you're help was right on track. I was thinking along the same lines, but hadn't considered making sure it wasn't fully up before starting.

We're all trying to help each other here, no one's input is without value.
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  #18  
Old 05-24-2012, 08:28 PM
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FINALLY got some time to try to run this through a few cycles before closing it up. I didn't want to close the deck lid before I was confident it was OK, so it's been propped open for a while.

Well, it's not OK. I placed a block of wood over the switch so that when the decklid closed, it'd hit the wood and activate the switch. It worked great, hit the wood the hydraulics stopped and the screws kept turning. However, when I reversed it I got nothing but that click. I pulled the wood out and tried several more times with the same results.

I pulled the plug on the deck unlock relay and plugged it in, jiggling things around to hopefully, well, do something. (Hey, it worked last time!) Now, I don't even get a click. Close the decklid on the wood and reverse the control and nothing, zip, nada.

The connector felt loose, so I used pliers to gently crimp them closed a bit and tried again. Still nothing.

So, now what? New relay or can these be opened and the contacts cleaned?

I had hoped to make cars and coffee this Saturday AM. Looks doubtful now.
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  #19  
Old 05-24-2012, 09:07 PM
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They're pretty easy to clean. Just unsolder the ground tab and pry the case open. I have had a few that were so rusted that the contacts were gone but if it worked before a good cleaning should do it.

John
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  #20  
Old 05-24-2012, 09:29 PM
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More info:

Sometimes I get a click, sometimes not. The click seems to be coming from the top solenoid valve right behind the back seat. My helper (13 YO engineer wannabe daughter) says she can feel it in that valve when we get a click.

When the deck lid is coming down, the lock screws are rotating. When it is going up, they are not. Should they be? It seems that they were when all was working properly.

So, it seems that I'm not getting power to the lock screws in the 'raise the deck lid' cycle, at least when the top is in the trunk. I haven't put the top up to see if it applies then. I assume it will.

The question is, bad relay, bad wiring, bad ground, or ??
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