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  #11  
Old 10-05-2011, 06:38 PM
tbirds8 tbirds8 is offline
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I put mine down with a jumper box then figured out it was a bad window relay
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  #12  
Old 10-05-2011, 07:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbirds8 View Post
I put mine down with a jumper box then figured out it was a bad window relay
What relay... These switches don't use a relay.

Ford wound the two Field windings in opposite directions. One for UP, the other for DOWN. Let's say the driver is switching the window UP while a kid in the back seat was pushing a different switch to bring it down. What would happen?

Both UP & DOWN Fields would both be energized. Since they are wound in opposite directions, the opposite Field magnetisms they produce would negate each other and the Armature wouldn't move.

That also means, if you put +12 on ALL the switch wires at the same time, both Field windings would energize but the Armature wouldn't move. It's not a 'short to ground' and no overcurrent device will trip, but the motor still won't turn.

So, yes. You can jump from +12 (center lug) to the Armature lug AND one of the Fields. The motor should move in a direction. Or, jumper Field wire on the other side of the switch and the motor will move in the opposite direction. That's normally how I troubleshoot a window motor, to prove it works. - Dave
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  #13  
Old 10-05-2011, 07:57 PM
tbirds8 tbirds8 is offline
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Power window relay sorry i get confused
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  #14  
Old 10-05-2011, 08:50 PM
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Bill Newman makes a good point; if you don't find power at the switch's center lug, check the 30-amp circuit breaker and the relay that feeds it.

Ford didn't run window power off the dash, they took it off the starter relay's battery post which feeds a separate window relay. When the ignition key is ON, the Window Relay energizes, feeding the 30-amp breaker. This system isolates the window power from all the other wiring. So, there's no need to look for blown fuses under the dash, there are none. - Dave
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Old 10-06-2011, 12:49 PM
davidvend davidvend is offline
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Having just sold a set of window switches for a 60 bird I believe the difference in part #'s is the switch levers are different because the top of the plastic have a small angle to them and the higher side go to the center of the cluster and taper down to the outside of the cluster. (I should have taken a closeup picture so you can see the angle on each switch)
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  #16  
Old 10-06-2011, 12:53 PM
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That said, you can take a switch apart! Just remove the center screw (on the back side) and flip the switch lever around. Then screw the lever back to the lower housing...

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  #17  
Old 10-06-2011, 11:57 PM
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Well, I got the two rear windows down, but not the fronts. I get a spark and noise from the windows, but no movement.

It's hard to tell which wires to jump. The diagram in the shop manual shows the wire colors at the window motor and the colors at the switches, but it doesn't show what color connects to what (they are different). I just noticed that the diagram linked above seems to be more clear, I may give it another go tomorrow.
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