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  #21  
Old 06-22-2011, 07:11 PM
davidvend davidvend is offline
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I took the carb apart and I cannot get the 4 brass jets out. it looks like someone tried before and 2 are stripped on the slots so a screwdriver spins off. Can you drill these out and use an easyout to remove them or if I drill them out will I ruin the ports below them? Yes pine-sol works great a little scrubbing and its clean I blew out all the openings everything is clean. Reasemble tonight I couldn't find a model # on the carb but did find a #112 on the float bowl - David
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  #22  
Old 06-22-2011, 08:42 PM
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jopizz jopizz is offline
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There's no reason to remove the jets. Most times they just round off like what happened to you. I usually just shoot some carb cleaner with a nozzle in them.
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  #23  
Old 06-22-2011, 10:29 PM
davidvend davidvend is offline
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Thank You I was worried that I would have to remove them. Everything is ready to put back together all is clean and all holes are clear. The carb was pretty clean but the rear diaphram and the power valve were all falling apart broken rubber on both. 40' Ford Day or all Ford Day is on Sunday and a parade on Saturday busy weekend. - David
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  #24  
Old 06-24-2011, 07:22 AM
Jimz Bird Jimz Bird is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidvend View Post
I couldn't find a model # on the carb but did find a #112 on the float bowl - David
Just a note on the #112.

"Autolite 4100

A Ford design that looks similar to a Holley, this carb is a very underrated choice. Coming in sizes useful for a Y, the 4100 uses Holley jets and power valves. The annular discharge booster venturis are very efficient. A great choice for an all-Ford ride, the 4100 is simple and reliable. 3 sizes were made: a 480 cfm unit uses 1.08”venturis, a 600 cfm unit uses 1.12” venturies, and a rare, 1958-only version came with 1.19” venturis for 650 to 670 cfm. Check the carb base for venturi size numbers."

From here:
http://m571.com/yblock/carb.htm

The 1.19 is a very "valuable" carb. If you see one in a junkyard - snag it.
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  #25  
Old 06-27-2011, 12:29 PM
davidvend davidvend is offline
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I went to 2 events this weekend and I'm having some issues with the rear butterflies staying a bit open causing a fast idle. Saturday after the parade I removed the carb and changed the carb mounting gasket reinstalled the carb and checked the movement of the rear butterflies and they closed with no problem. Sunday went to a car show everything was fine but on the way home I wanted to see the car perform so I pressed the gas petal hard and the rear butterflies stuck open again. I had a hard time stopping with the traffic and had to put it in neutral to stop I got off the fwy shut off the car checked the rear butterflies and they were closed and the car ran fine all the way home. Why would driving the car keep those open? am I missing a spring? the only thing they are hooked up to is the rear pump.
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  #26  
Old 06-27-2011, 01:29 PM
Astrowing Astrowing is offline
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That sounds dangerous and you need to solve it before driving in traffic. My suggestion is to check the main throttle linkage and make sure that linkage is always returning back to idle with the engine off. There is a spring that attaches to the bracket on the back of the carb that should ensure it always comes back. There have been some instances of the accelerator assembly at the back of the engine being so worn that it makes the throttle pretty sloppy. Additionally there are several adjustments for pedal height and the length of the carb accelerator rod, and dashpot that need to be adjusted. All these procedures are in the service manual in the auto transmission section, assuming you have a Cruise-o-matic.
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  #27  
Old 07-02-2011, 01:24 PM
davidvend davidvend is offline
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The linkage returns back with the engine off. I think the trouble is that the vacume is keeping the rear butterflies open on the rear linkage. The rear acelelerator pump spring inside shows on the instructions that it is in the rear position pushing forward and the one on my carb is pushing backwards away from the carb is it possiable that it is in backwards, it is the way I took it off or could it be the diaphram is to strong and the spring needs more tension to push it closed.
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  #28  
Old 07-02-2011, 02:23 PM
davidvend davidvend is offline
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Sorry wrong information the spring is pushing the diaphram forward to close it but it doesn't seem to close. It is in the right direction I think it is the vacume thats keeping it open? should I stretch the spring so it is stronger to close the diaphram from the vacume
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  #29  
Old 07-02-2011, 03:29 PM
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I don't think bending the spring will do much as they are pretty flimsy. You can try bending the rod so there's more tension and the butterflies don't open as far.
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  #30  
Old 07-02-2011, 04:27 PM
davidvend davidvend is offline
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Bending the linkage would make it longer and maybe that would help. Do you think it would be the carb gasket the one I took off had 4 holes in the down draft? and the carb gasket I put on from the kit has a large square opening and not sealing the center of the carb for this 4100 that maybe sealed as not to suck the diaphram to open the rear butterflies?
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