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  #41  
Old 06-01-2011, 06:15 PM
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Default davidmij - Disc Brake Conversion & Rim Problems

It is important that we do not get a thread off subject. If you are talking about tires or rims in a thread, please don't start talking about another subject, such as converting to disc brakes or working on your brakes. It makes it difficult to locate subjects in a search if subjects are mixed up in threads.

Since the two threads that David started have information regarding tires or rims intermingled with information regarding problems with a disc conversion, I have done this. I have taken the two threads of David's and merged them into one calling it "davidmij - Disc Brake Conversion & Rim Problems." In the future, anyone looking for information on swapping out their rims and doing the disc brake conversion can do a search on "Disc Brake Conversion & Rim Problems" and should be able to find this information.

Please keep your threads and posts on subject when you post. That includes me too!
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  #42  
Old 06-01-2011, 09:00 PM
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Thx Ray, and everybody else. I'll try to be more organized with my posts and threads.
My pictures are here on Picasaweb; https://picasaweb.google.com/1014928...K6Gg9yhpdfGWg#
I pumped the brake pedal and held it, then started the engine. the pedal didn't move at all. It should drop a little as the vacuum builds. The guy at abs power brakes told me this means I have (one) bad diaphragm. I told him I can hear the air rush out of the booster after turning off the engine and then pressing the pedal - he said that means the other diaphragm is good. He also said that if I press the brake pedal (while the engine is running) and it causes the RPM to drop or sputter, then this just reassures that the suspect diaphragm is likely to be bad. (And that's exactly what happens) He said not to worry, the parts are warranted for a year. Guess I'll be pulling it apart and sending it back. What a bummer, everything went together so well and I was really looking forward to taking a spin.
regards, Dave J
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  #43  
Old 06-01-2011, 10:08 PM
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I've learned with these old cars that they will let you drive them when THEY feel like it. Not whenever the hell YOU feel like it.




"Simple jobs" turn into weeks-long teeth-gnashers, etc etc.
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  #44  
Old 06-01-2011, 11:24 PM
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Did my brake pedal look familiar Greg? One day I'll add the clutch pedal.
;~) One day.
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  #45  
Old 06-02-2011, 01:20 PM
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Can anyone tell me how many inches of vacuum I should read on a 352 engine? I'm going to borrow a gauge from Autozone and check it today before I pull my M/C booster setup and ship it back.
thx, Dave
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  #46  
Old 06-02-2011, 01:31 PM
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Default davidmij - Disc Brake Conversion & Rim Problems

David, according to the 1959 Shop Manual (which you should have, if you do not have one), Table 3 - Manifold Vacuum Gauge Readings, on Page 1-11, shows that the gauge reading on a 352 engine with an engine in normal condition, should be 19-20 inches.
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  #47  
Old 06-02-2011, 03:47 PM
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The best way to test your booster is with a vacuum pump. That way you can see if it holds vacuum and releases correctly when you depress the pedal.
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  #48  
Old 06-02-2011, 09:37 PM
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Thx guys, I don't really know how to use this vacuum pump, but here's what I did. I hooked up the rubber hose to my manifold and it read 13 to 14. An article on SecondHandGarage.com said "the readings following will be typical at sea level. In general, subtract one inch for each 1000 feet above sea level." I'm at 6500 feet so that would mean the reading is 19 to 20. That's what it's supposed to be. Do you think the 1000 feet rule is accurate?
I also hooked the line to the booster and pumped the trigger - it went up to 15 and then no more. When I pressed the brake it released the pressure just like it should. However, each time after that it would only go to about 5 - weird.
I checked my 1992 F-250 460 at the booster and it read 16 to 17, but I don't know what it's supposed to be. I don't have a manual for the truck and I couldn't find it on the web.
Any help/siggestions would be appreciated.
regards, Dave J
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  #49  
Old 06-02-2011, 10:03 PM
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When you are hooked up to the booster and are pumping it you are generating vacuum; the same as your engine would. When you say that you are getting only 5 after pushing the brake does it stay at 5 or does it go down to zero which would indicate a leak. After you push the brake and release the vacuum it should go back up to 15-20 again when you pump it. That's probably as much vacuum as you are going to generate. Is your brake pedal returning to the full up position. It sounds like the booster is not closing all the way; either because it's defective or your pedal linkage is hanging up. As far as the readings go I'm not that familiar with the whole sea level thing but 18-22 is normal for most engines.
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Old 06-02-2011, 10:27 PM
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What I meant was that the first time it pumped up to 15 - then I pressed the pedal and it released the air. Then I tried the same exact thing again, but it would only pump up to 5 - then I pressed the pedal and it dropped again. Of course it made less of a woosh sound when it was at 5.
My engine smokes, and I'm pretty sure I have blow by - that would lower my vacuum pressure but I don't know how much - but have any of you ever heard of blow by causing the power brakes to not work at all?
I guess I should call them back tomorrow and ask just how much pressure it takes to work the booster.
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