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  #11  
Old 05-31-2011, 02:01 AM
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simplyconnected simplyconnected is online now
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Yes, it sounds good so far. You have vacuum, you used the larger reservoir for your front lines, you connected the prop valve according to the diagram, and your booster holds a vacuum even after your engine stops (so you still have power brakes in an emergency).

Run some tests:

With the engine off, disconnect the top pin. Does the booster return all the way to the 'at rest' position (or is the linkage pulling it in)?

Have someone step on the pedal with the engine running, and WATCH the linkage. Does it bind? Does it hit the end of its stroke before the brakes lock up?

If it all looks good, the next part I would look at is the space between your booster and your M/C. (This isn't your brake pedal rod... that's another thing.) How much gap is there? You can measure this without disconnecting lines. If you need to, use a piece of clay or plumber's putty because everything is hidden.

All these vacuum-powered booster systems work the same and they are pretty easy to set up. There are no secrets and there shouldn't be any surprises... step on the pedal, booster opens a vacuum valve which adds assist to your master cylinder.

Hey David, did you take any pictures???
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  #12  
Old 05-31-2011, 10:04 AM
davidmij davidmij is offline
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No, I used the front, (small) reservoir for the front brakes, and the large one for my rear brakes. That's probably the problem.
I'll switch them and see what happens. I'll post some pix too, I always get caught up in the work and forget to take photos as I'm working.
Just to be sure, I need the small reservoir to go to the rear and the large to go to the front???

thx, Dave
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  #13  
Old 05-31-2011, 12:20 PM
Astrowing Astrowing is offline
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Yes, the larger reservoir is for the front disks. They have the much larger pistons so more volume of hydraulic fluid is needed to move them.
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  #14  
Old 05-31-2011, 01:21 PM
davidmij davidmij is offline
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I'm sure that's the problem then. I'll have to get air out of the lines once I switch them too. Bummer, bleeding is a lot easier with the car on blocks and the wheels off.
thx Jim.
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  #15  
Old 05-31-2011, 01:58 PM
RustyNCa RustyNCa is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scumdog View Post
With all this talk about caliper clearance, has ANYBODY found alternative rims/alloy wheels that fit '66 Thunderbirds (and clear the calipers)???
If you don't mind the look, I am pretty sure the late model Mustang Bullit rims clear.

I tried them on our 65 and I am pretty sure they would clear without running a spacer. I am running a 1" spacer in front, but I remember thinking at the time, they would clear without it.

The rims are 17" so that may not give you the look you want.

For an idea, the front tires are 245 the rears are 275. The car is also lowered at least 2" probably a bit more in front and 2" in the rear also. Actually in that photo I might not have the back lowered yet.

Cheers
RustyNCA



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  #16  
Old 05-31-2011, 02:03 PM
RustyNCa RustyNCa is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidmij View Post
OK, I have another problem. (my on going brake saga) I found 3 wheels for my front and a spare at a Santa Fe junk yard. I then found a couple of roller tires at a local gas station and busted them by hand. One of the tires had a hole in the wall so I had to get another one. I forgot how much work it is do tires by hand! Anyway, I got her fired up and rolling but the brakes are not getting any power. It's like driving with the engine off. I remembered I had a vacuum line open at the wiper motor so I plugged it with a bolt. I basically have just the vacuum line off the intake manifold going to my power brake module. The rest are removed. I'm guessing that's not enough? I have no idea how vacuum lines power things. Can anyone offer advice on this?
Thx, Dave J
One line should be enough if you plumbed it correctly. Do you still have a check valve in your vacuum line? You might also check and make sure it still works if it is there.

Also did you run the line straight to the booster or does it go to the canister in the drivers side fender first?

I haven't read about your brake saga, is the booster new?
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  #17  
Old 05-31-2011, 02:07 PM
davidmij davidmij is offline
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That is a SHARP looking car Rusty. Those wheels are perfect. The front end and hood on that vehicle are pure art.
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  #18  
Old 05-31-2011, 02:13 PM
davidmij davidmij is offline
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Everything is new.
No check valve, it runs straight from the manifold. I removed the canister too. Turns out I have the the larger reservoir going to the rear brakes. I'm guessing that makes all the difference. I also plunged the line going to the windsheild wiper motor - I have plenty of vacuum, and with the engine off if I hit the brake pedal i can hear the air leaving the power assist unit like it should. I'll switch the lines tonight and check it out.
thx!
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  #19  
Old 05-31-2011, 02:55 PM
RustyNCa RustyNCa is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidmij View Post
Everything is new.
No check valve, it runs straight from the manifold. I removed the canister too. Turns out I have the the larger reservoir going to the rear brakes. I'm guessing that makes all the difference. I also plunged the line going to the windsheild wiper motor - I have plenty of vacuum, and with the engine off if I hit the brake pedal i can hear the air leaving the power assist unit like it should. I'll switch the lines tonight and check it out.
thx!
Pretty sure you need that check valve to maintain the vacuum in the booster. It is a one way check valve that keeps the vacuum from bleeding off, I am pretty sure the system won't work right without it. I know I had one die in my olds, and the brakes didn't work correctly without it, and that system is very similar to the TBrid.

The canister is nice to have, it's job is to maintain a small reserve of vacuum to power systems needing the vacuum. It was nice of Ford to put them in their cars, I had to add one to my olds, I would run out of brakes in traffic prior to adding the canister to it.

The system will work without the canister, but in other words, I would keep the canister in the car if I was you, it is a great help to the car.

Cheers
RustyNCA
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  #20  
Old 05-31-2011, 05:07 PM
davidmij davidmij is offline
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Hm, I had thought that I only needed the shutoff valve if I had the canister - being that it came off the "T" fitting. What you're saying makes more sense though. The valve would keep suction in the canister for when the brake pedal is depressed - that would give it enough to boost the power and stop a non running car. I guess I'll find out tonight if it's needed or not. I have to reverse the brake lines anyway to put the small reservoir to the back brakes and large to the front. I'll try it like that and see if it works. If it doesn't I'll put the valve back in line and plug the canister in too. Good thing I save all my old parts. This car is a Road Rat type project so anything I can remove that is extra weight will eventually be pulled. The canister thing is nice, but it seems to me that all new cars don't have any kind of brake back up so I thought it really couldn't be that important. I'll definitely post my results to let you know. Thanks for the input Rusty!

- Dave J
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