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  #131  
Old 08-13-2011, 01:56 PM
ncbird ncbird is offline
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Default vacuum gauge

Go buy a cheap manual aftermarket vacuum gauge. Hook it up and
Drive the car and see what it is really doing. Vacuum drops as you accelerate but you can get a goood idea. You have plowed the same ground over and over getting same results. The mbm tech section walks you through problem isolation just as simplyconnect did. Accept the results of each and move on. Did this car lock up the brakes before the conversion or are you fighting a problem that already existed and assuming it is because of the conversion?
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  #132  
Old 08-13-2011, 06:31 PM
davidmij davidmij is offline
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Good advise Grant - thx. I can borrow a vacuum gauge from Autozone (again) and this time check it while driving it.
I went thru MBM brakes tech section - I think I've tried everything there (probably twice). Yes, you are very correct. This has been going on for so long now that I feel like a dog chasing his own tail. I work it a little here and there then each time I revisit the car I feel a little ADHD. Wish I had a brake shop near by - the nearest one is 35 miles away. I'm sure they would figure it in an instance being that it's basically a modern system now.
If it is indeed the old motor and poor vacuum then I'll probably just work other stuff until I can afford to fix the motor.
thx, Dave J
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  #133  
Old 08-13-2011, 07:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidmij View Post
I also read that the timing advance is important, it definitely needs to be looked at. I don't really know how to set it but the manual will tell me.
When I come to a stop and then start to accelerate the engine flutters (even stalled once or twice) I believe that's a timing issue maybe??? Yes, no?
thx again for the help.
- Dave J
Try this:

Use a scribe or some correction fluid to mark a line from the manifold onto distributor housing (i.e. a means to re-align the distributor to its original position if you move it - you may need to do this!).

Now slacken off the bolt that holds the distributor clamp in place.
Carefully twist the distributor in a clockwise direction FOR ONLY 1/4" OR LESS. (And grab the body of the distributor to move it - don't use the cap to twist it!)

This will advance the timing by quiet a few degrees.

Tighten the clamp bolt again and take the car for a drive and see if there is a noticable difference.

Just be aware that if you advance the timing too much you will get 'pinging' (or 'pinking' as we say here) and it's Not Good for the motor.

Normally it will only ping when you push hard on the gas pedal - if it does it as you take off normally it will mean you already had enough intial timing advance before you 'adjusted' it..

Let us know how it goes.
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Last edited by scumdog : 08-13-2011 at 09:22 PM.
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  #134  
Old 08-13-2011, 09:09 PM
redstangbob redstangbob is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scumdog View Post
Try this:

Use a scribe or some correction fluid to mark a line from the manifold onto distributor housing (i.e. a means to re-align the distributor to its original position if you move it - you may need to do this!).

Now slacken off the bolt that holds the distributor clamp in place.
Carefully twist the distributor in an anti-clockwise direction FOR ONLY 1/4" OR LESS. (And grab the body of the distributor to move it - don't use the cap to twist it!)
You have it backwards, anti-clockwise will retard the timing. Think of it as pulling on the vacuum advance pot to advance the timing.
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  #135  
Old 08-13-2011, 09:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redstangbob View Post
You have it backwards, anti-clockwise will retard the timing. Think of it as pulling on the vacuum advance pot to advance the timing.
Sorry, my mistake - I was thinking of the rotor-arm rotation, as Homer says "doh!"

(have editted the original post)
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  #136  
Old 08-14-2011, 12:07 AM
davidmij davidmij is offline
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It's all coming back to me now - I remember doing this when I was kid and we used to work on our cars. I remember adjusting the points with a match book cover once too somewhere. Anyway, I'll check it out tomorrow afternoon golfing.
Thanks a ton for the quick easy try.
Cheers to world south of the equator!
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  #137  
Old 08-14-2011, 07:40 PM
davidmij davidmij is offline
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I tried it both ways and it made no diff in the braking. It seems to idle best (highest) right where it is. I'll try the vacuum gauge (while driving) next weekend.
i wish there was a way to add a electrical or mechanical vacuum pump just as a test. I haven't looked yet but I'll bet they are expensive.

thx gents
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  #138  
Old 08-17-2011, 09:23 PM
davidmij davidmij is offline
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OK, I bought a vacuum gauge/pump and hooked it up where my canister normally goes. After running the engine for 15 minutes I checked it at idle and it read 13.5. That's about 19.5 if I were at sea level, so it's good.(It idles fairly high) Also, the needle flickers very rapidly a full 2 inches hg vac while parked. Then I put the car in reverse - it immediately dropped to about 7.5 - that would be about 13.5 at sea level. I took it for a spin, in drive at various rpm's it stayed between 7.5 and 9. If I shift into neutral while rolling it jumped to almost 15 and the needle quit flickering, (that's 21 at sea level) Remember, my engine is old and tired.
I'm guessing this is my problem, the engine is too beat up to maintain decent vacuum under load. I think I read somewhere that the flickering needle tells me something about the rings, valves, or gaskets, I'll have to look up what it means on line.
Any thoughts etc. from you guys?
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  #139  
Old 08-17-2011, 09:28 PM
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Here's the link to the vacuum guage diagnosis

I'd say it's a bad valve/valves
Try adjusting the mixtures as per 15 first

http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm

Last edited by 1960_430_AU : 08-17-2011 at 09:43 PM.
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  #140  
Old 08-17-2011, 10:37 PM
davidmij davidmij is offline
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Thx Richard, that's the exact same web site (or link) I had seen a while back while "googleing".
Yeah, none of them really fit my senario, but my idle is quite high, and I did take the carb apart when I first got the car because it had a stuck float and was over-flowing. I tried not to adjust any settings on the carb, but I did use a rebuild kit and change out as many parts as I could without tearing it down too far.
I'll try adjusting the mixture screws tomorrow - it's dark here now.
Thx a ton, Dave J
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