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  #1  
Old 02-04-2011, 02:56 PM
60 T-Bird 60 T-Bird is offline
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Default Bench Testing Power Window Motor

After seeing the price to rebuild and or buy the window motors, I decided to dismantle them myself. I have turned the commutator, scraped out the segments and restored the bushings. No a big deal really. There is a black, green red and yellow wire. To bench test which 2 are for one direction and which other 2 for the opposite direction?
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Old 02-04-2011, 04:21 PM
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green - ARM
yellow - DN Field
red - UP Field
black - Ground

Could some one can verify this, I only have a poor resolution scan at the moment.
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Old 02-04-2011, 04:32 PM
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Here's the link:
http://squarebirds.org/Diagrams-Sche...ms/3WD-418.jpg
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Old 02-04-2011, 04:42 PM
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Ya...I got all that but not sure how to hook it up. To say black is ground, I think they mean negative or battery minus. There is no real ground on DC. Where would the positive go? I don't want to fry it testing it...
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Last edited by 60 T-Bird : 02-04-2011 at 07:23 PM.
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Old 02-04-2011, 09:14 PM
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Martin, I guess it would be more correct to say our cars have a 'chassis ground'. I know, there is no earth ground, but when Ford connected the negative battery post to the engine block and body, we refer to that side of the power as, 'ground'.

Most automotive electrical devices will be manufactured for, 'neg gnd'. Ford stopped using positive ground in '55.

The diagrams show the black wire comes from the motor, through a circuit breaker and it is connected to the car's body. Let's call this the 'ground' wire. This ground wire should be the LAST wire you connect when testing because:

When current flows through ONE field winding, it creates magnetism in ONE direction. Current flowing through the armature also causes magnetism in ONE direction. If those magnetisms attract, the motor goes clockwise. If they repel, the motor turns counterclockwise.

The motor will go up when you connect the green & red wires to +12, then connect the black to (-) NEG.

The motor will go down when you connect the green & yellow wires to +12, then connect the black to (-) NEG.

When testing, I always err on the side of caution and check all motor leads to the case. Suppose there might be a wiring problem inside the motor. If you kinda scrape the last wire, the black wire, to the negative battery terminal, you should expect to see motor motion. If there is a short, excessive current will produce lots of sparks, but no motor motion.

I hope this helps. - Dave
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Old 02-05-2011, 12:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post

The diagrams show the black wire comes from the motor, through a circuit breaker and it is connected to the car's body. Let's call this the 'ground' wire. This ground wire should be the LAST wire you connect when testing because:

When current flows through ONE field winding, it creates magnetism in ONE direction. Current flowing through the armature also causes magnetism in ONE direction. If those magnetisms attract, the motor goes clockwise. If they repel, the motor turns counterclockwise.

The motor will go up when you connect the green & red wires to +12, then connect the black to (-) NEG.

The motor will go down when you connect the green & yellow wires to +12, then connect the black to (-) NEG.



I hope this helps. - Dave
This was very helpful Dave thank you. Strangely enough if the black was connected first, nothing would happen. I rebuilt the first one, now 3 more to go.
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Old 02-05-2011, 01:27 AM
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Thank You for following my direction, Martin.

This procedure is important. If you do it any other way, you will energize the armature without the field, or you will energize the field without the armature. The window control button brings them both in simultaneously, but doing it without a button is more tricky.

My hat goes off to you for getting into the motors. You're right, there isn't much to them. These motors rarely get used or wear out; therein is the cause of most failure.

Side Note: You guys with convertible or retractable tops need to cycle those relays and buttons, just to 'clean off' the contacts in the switches and relays. Relay logic is very hearty (nearly bulletproof) but the worst recipe for disaster is NON-use. Frequent use will make the system work better as some stuck or dirty contacts tend to free themselves.

Martin, clean the motor insides with degreaser (like contact cleaner) and use light lithium grease in the bearings but do not sand the brushes or commutator segments. If they have a black color, leave it. That is carbon 'lubrication' formed by the brushes. If the commutators have a 'glaze' electricity cannot go through, clean that off. Make sure the brushes move freely, but keep all oils away from them as brushes operate hot, and heat turns oil to gum. - Dave
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Old 02-05-2011, 09:47 AM
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Default Be carefull disassembling ...

the motor or you will break the brush holder. the arm. end of the case has to come off first. I was able to repair it with epoxy.

As Dave said, clean well. If memory serves they have oilite bearings which are sorrounded by an absorbent pad which should be re-oiled, just don't get carried away and add a small dab of grease at the bearing on assembly. Just like a starter motor, I chuck up the arm. in a drill press or lathe and lightly clean the commutator with non metallic sand paper. The switches are probably more of an issue than the motors. I think there is a post I did on switch rehab in the tech section. Mike
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Old 02-05-2011, 07:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gaffney1951 View Post
the motor or you will break the brush holder. the arm. end of the case has to come off first. I was able to repair it with epoxy.

As Dave said, clean well. If memory serves they have oilite bearings which are sorrounded by an absorbent pad which should be re-oiled, just don't get carried away and add a small dab of grease at the bearing on assembly. Just like a starter motor, I chuck up the arm. in a drill press or lathe and lightly clean the commutator with non metallic sand paper. The switches are probably more of an issue than the motors. I think there is a post I did on switch rehab in the tech section. Mike
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Old 02-05-2011, 07:44 PM
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The motors on my rear quarter windows are pretty weak despite my efforts to make the operating mechanisms as perfect as can be (if you recall, I had some fancy brass bushings made for these devils).....but you guys are "speaking in tougues" in the posts above...
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