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  #1  
Old 12-06-2010, 10:35 PM
ShowMeGuy ShowMeGuy is offline
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Default 1965 Dual Master Cylinder help

Ok..... I've done some searching here and found the link where I seen a MC from any Mustang with front discs and drum rears would work good in the 65 Tbirds with some modification to the strut town brace.

I found RustyNCa link where he shows Raybestos MC36251. I couldn't find anyplace that had that but we were able to find a MC from a a 68 Mustang with a 302. I measured it it's pretty much right at 7" total length.

The problem is I cant get the bracket that sits atop the strut tower on without hitting the MC. I doesn't look like that is an issue with his pictures. Has anyone else ran into this issue? I dont' wanna to just start grinding away because i'm concerned that the braces which I know need modified wouldn't work.

My next thought is did the PO change out the booster? it's about 6 1/2" deep from mount to mount... Any thoughts?

I Know pictures would help but I'm still without a camera.

TIA. ShowMeGuy

Last edited by ShowMeGuy : 12-06-2010 at 10:39 PM.
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  #2  
Old 12-07-2010, 03:00 AM
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simplyconnected simplyconnected is offline
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You may want to revisit his pictures:
Quote:
Originally Posted by RustyNCa View Post
Got in the mood to drive ol Lola, and here are some photos I took this morning for you.

In the photos you can see where we notched the brace (I thought it came out looking pretty factory ). In the third photo you can see how we ran the brake lines. The lines going into the tee are the factory lines. The front line is a new line that joined up to the original hard line. So we didn't change the factory lines at all.




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  #3  
Old 12-07-2010, 07:44 AM
Richard D. Hord Richard D. Hord is offline
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Hey Guys,
Thats pretty and a darn good ideal! Sometimes a little thinking goes a long way. Gotta love this web site!!!
Richard D. Hord
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  #4  
Old 12-07-2010, 03:36 PM
ShowMeGuy ShowMeGuy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
You may want to revisit his pictures:
simplyconnected, Yes those are the pics that i have downloaded to my PC... I can see where he had to modify the bar going from the strut tower to the center of the rear hood. But in my case I can't get the piece that the bar connects (3 bolts above the shock and is kinda dished shaped) to without some modification as it hits the rear of the MC.. I was hoping to see if that was also modified before I go grinding away and finding out it's not the problem.

Thanks!
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  #5  
Old 12-08-2010, 01:29 AM
ShowMeGuy ShowMeGuy is offline
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So I went ahead and buzzed off that little 1/4 or so of that bracket. I have one more brake to bleed. Hopefully the brakes are better. As I found the POs cobble of mess and split the Tee a the MC. Keeping fingers crossed...
ShowMeGuy
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  #6  
Old 12-08-2010, 02:17 AM
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ShowMeGuy,
How did you plumb your combination proportioning valve to your M/C?
What size piston was in your old and new M/C's?
Do you use a pressure switch for your brake lights? Where did you put it?
Did you use a residual valve?

I sure wish you had pictures. - Dave
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  #7  
Old 12-08-2010, 12:26 PM
RustyNCa RustyNCa is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
ShowMeGuy,
How did you plumb your combination proportioning valve to your M/C?
What size piston was in your old and new M/C's?
Do you use a pressure switch for your brake lights? Where did you put it?
Did you use a residual valve?

I sure wish you had pictures. - Dave
Well, in my case.....

We didn't run a combination proportioning valve to the M/C.

We didn't check piston size in old M/C vs new, we didn't see that as a concern.

The way we did it, all we changed in the system was the M/C and a small bit of tubing, was very little change to the system other than the dual reservoir so you shouldn't need to worry about the brake switch etc.

No residual valve, my understanding you only need to run those when your M/C is lower than your Wheel Cylinder's which isn't the case here.

Hope that helps

Cheers
RustyNCA
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  #8  
Old 12-08-2010, 12:28 PM
RustyNCa RustyNCa is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShowMeGuy View Post
Ok..... I've done some searching here and found the link where I seen a MC from any Mustang with front discs and drum rears would work good in the 65 Tbirds with some modification to the strut town brace.

I found RustyNCa link where he shows Raybestos MC36251. I couldn't find anyplace that had that but we were able to find a MC from a a 68 Mustang with a 302. I measured it it's pretty much right at 7" total length.

The problem is I cant get the bracket that sits atop the strut tower on without hitting the MC. I doesn't look like that is an issue with his pictures. Has anyone else ran into this issue? I dont' wanna to just start grinding away because i'm concerned that the braces which I know need modified wouldn't work.

My next thought is did the PO change out the booster? it's about 6 1/2" deep from mount to mount... Any thoughts?

I Know pictures would help but I'm still without a camera.

TIA. ShowMeGuy
Didn't see that you were doing this, but yeah I didn't have any clearance issues with the shock tower portion of the brace.
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  #9  
Old 12-08-2010, 01:51 PM
ShowMeGuy ShowMeGuy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RustyNCa View Post
Well, in my case.....

We didn't run a combination proportioning valve to the M/C.

We didn't check piston size in old M/C vs new, we didn't see that as a concern.

The way we did it, all we changed in the system was the M/C and a small bit of tubing, was very little change to the system other than the dual reservoir so you shouldn't need to worry about the brake switch etc.

No residual valve, my understanding you only need to run those when your M/C is lower than your Wheel Cylinder's which isn't the case here.

Hope that helps

Cheers
RustyNCA

I got it installed and used a one man bleeder to get the lines bled but i was expecting a lot softer pedal than I had prior knowing there was air in the line. Doesn't feel like power brakes to me.. I'll probably try to have someone help me bleed the brakes again.
I don't know that my mom or sister could drive it as the pedal is pretty stout to push and get stoppage. Probably air in the lines but you alls thoughts?

BTW, I plumbed mine exactly like RustyNCa has in his pics...

ShowMeGuy

Last edited by ShowMeGuy : 12-08-2010 at 02:02 PM.
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  #10  
Old 12-08-2010, 02:04 PM
RustyNCa RustyNCa is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShowMeGuy View Post
I got it installed and used a one man bleeder to get the lines bled but i was expecting a lot softer pedal than I had prior knowing there was air in the line. Doesn't feel like power brakes to me.. I'll probably try to have someone help me bleed the brakes again.
I don't know that my mom or sister could drive it as the pedal is pretty stout to push and get stoppage. Probably air in the lines but you alls thoughts?

ShowMeGuy
Hmm, when you say it's pretty stout to push, do you mean pedal feel or to get the brakes to grab?

Did the brakes work well before you started? Was the pedal fine before the change?

Another thing to look at is if the depth on the M/C matches up correctly with the plunger on the booster. Is it also possible you have a gap in there that is using up a bunch of your pedal travel before you are even activating the master?

I can tell you I was very pleased at how well it worked for me. Pedal feels great, brakes are very good, everything works just like it was placed there by Ford originally.

Cheers
RustyNCA
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