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  #1  
Old 10-19-2018, 02:07 PM
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orwin orwin is offline
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Default Generator Light

Hello - I just got my charging circuit working using the info in the TRL.

1. I checked that the generator was putting out using the "headlight test" mentioned in the TRL. Disconnected ARM and FIELD, then put power on FIELD. All OK.

2. It would not charge with the engine running so now maybe needed to be polarized? I did that but it may have been OK already.

3. No voltage to Field while running. Checked the regulator - the Cutout relay was not closing, so no power to the Field. I just closed it manually and now everything seems to be working OK. Voltage rises with RPM as expected and within specs. Didn't have to touch the regulator again. The one-time kick seems to have fixed it, since each time I start it is OK.

QUESTION: The generator light *never* comes on. As I recall from other old Fords, it should be ON with the key on (not running) just like the Oil light. Then maybe at very low RPM I should see some dim flickering? BTW, I did test the bulb.

What could be wrong, if anything? Does it matter? I will probably put in Temp/Oil/Voltage gauges anyway. Still would be nice to figure this out.

Thanks,

John
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  #2  
Old 10-19-2018, 02:36 PM
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check the bulb first! Mine was blown. Both Brake and Gen light should come on with the key.
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Old 10-19-2018, 04:47 PM
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The GEN light is a very simple circuit. It starts at the key switch, feeds the light bulb and continues to the 'ARM' lug on your voltage regulator. That bulb socket is NOT grounded and it has two wires in the back.

Better revisit your bulb again. It should come on with the key turned to the 'on' position and its purpose is to send current straight through your armature, through the brushes and out to ground. When the bulb shines, it IS flashing your armature, so no need to do it again. If the bulb is good and it does NOT shine, check your generator's brushes.

In vehicles and tractors with no GEN light, the voltage regulator resistors should pass enough current to energize the 'cutout relay'. Sometimes those resistors break because they are so brittle (and old) with lots of heat/cold cycles.

Notice that the 'voltage' and 'current' relay contacts are normally closed. They also need to be CLEAN. Run some fine sandpaper through the contacts to knock off any oxidation. It's best to do this without disturbing the mount. In other words, leave the VR on your fender apron so you don't touch the resistors in the back.

The VR needs a good ground and it should have a capacitor mounted to it. The cap is the same as your points condenser (.22-uf) and it 'cushions' the electrical noise created by the VR contacts. - Dave
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Old 10-20-2018, 11:07 AM
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It was a loose bulb in the socket.

Thanks!
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Old 10-20-2018, 05:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orwin View Post
It was a loose bulb in the socket...
Do yourself a favor, John. Replace with a new #57 bulb if that one is old. You see how important that little 'idiot light' really is. - Dave
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Old 10-22-2018, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orwin View Post
It was a loose bulb in the socket.

Thanks!
I love it when a plan comes together
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