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  #21  
Old 10-06-2018, 04:40 PM
Joe Johnston Joe Johnston is offline
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I too am a very firm believer in "there is no replacement for displacement" and also "you never have too much fuel until you are on fire!" BUT "nothing sounds as good as a Y-BLOCK!" My 57 Y sounds so much sweeter than my 63 FE.
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  #22  
Old 10-06-2018, 05:45 PM
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Even a garden hose running water through works ok, but the heater core directly. Pull the hoses and do it that way. Donít blast the pressure though or youíll wreck the core.
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  #23  
Old 10-07-2018, 12:04 PM
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Dave - OK I'll add American cheese to my shopping list! I did try to feel around in there for the end of the bolt or ez out and didn't detect anything.

Regarding carbide / carbide tip drill bit, non-masonry type, I have been trying to source locally but haven't had any luck yet. When I asked at the local industrial / contractor supply place for a carbide drill for metal, not concrete, he looked at me like I was speaking in tongues. Would this do the job? https://www.grainger.com/product/MIC...ill-Bit-16T546
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  #24  
Old 10-07-2018, 07:03 PM
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I think I have one in 3/16". Want me to send it to you? BTW did you heat it up yet? - Dave
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  #25  
Old 10-08-2018, 01:39 AM
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Not yet. Tomorrow I hope. Got the MAP gas today and need to give the area a good degreasing. Also got a piece of 1/4" plate and some hopefully suitable saw blades. Also got the cheese!
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  #26  
Old 10-08-2018, 01:40 AM
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and yes that would be wonderful if you could send me the bit!
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  #27  
Old 10-19-2018, 06:14 PM
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Dave's carbide bit arrived safe and sound, and meanwhile...

I learned that I didn't have anything suitable to cut 1/4" steel plate so off to a local fabricator to get the cuts made. They indicated that the circle would be a challenge. That was 10 days ago. Today, I stop by to suggest that a square would work instead of the circle only to find out they can't get to it for at least three weeks! Next stop, NAPA machine shop. Nope, no suitable saw, but they suggest the local branch of https://www.metalsupermarkets.com/
These guys are great! They made all the cuts, on my piece of Home Depot steel, while I waited, and the charge was $Zero! If you need any size tube, channel, flat stock in steel, aluminum, some copper & brass, they've got it at over 80 locations. I never heard of them before today.

Here's what I've got so far for the drilling guide. I am still puzzled about how to ensure I get the 2nd hole in the right place. The broken bolt is flush with the surface so cheese method won't work to mark it.
Also just to confirm, on those surge tank mount holes, I am positive that they don't go all the way through like the water pump holes do. And, as it turns out, I didn't drill all the way through when I first attempted to prepare for the now busted EZ-out. So I'm thinking that I'll need to put a depth stopper on the bit when I get to the point.
One last question for now...once I start putting everything back together, should I use anything on the bolt treads? I have new bolts for everything.. well everything except the surge tank mount bolts which I guess I'll get at the hardware store since I can't seem to locate them in any of the catalogs.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DrillGuidePieces.JPG (101.4 KB, 55 views)
File Type: jpg DrillGuide_1.JPG (110.1 KB, 55 views)
File Type: jpg DrillGuide_2.JPG (104.4 KB, 54 views)
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  #28  
Old 10-19-2018, 06:42 PM
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I've never used anything on the bolts and nothing has ever seeped out. I guess if you're worried about it some Teflon tape of plumbers putty? I worry that the engine gets really hot and the stuff seeps into the motor.

Good luck, looks like a huge pain!
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  #29  
Old 10-19-2018, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by del View Post
Dave's carbide bit arrived safe and sound, and meanwhile...
Ok, did the 5/16" tap arrive as well?
Quote:
Originally Posted by del View Post
...I am still puzzled about how to ensure I get the 2nd hole in the right place. The broken bolt is flush with the surface so cheese method won't work to mark it.
Get a stiff piece of shirtboard and mark 'top' on one side. Face the word 'top' toward the surge tank flange. I like to work from the bolt hole that is not damaged and make the hole small so a BOLT with a flat washer is snug. Bolt and nut the shirtboard to the flange and mark your holes. (You can help by embossing the cardboard into surrounding reliefs by pressing with a blunt tool.) You can also glue the shirtboard to the flange using rubber cement (or something that can be removed, later. Now that the cardboard is located on the flange, use a drill bit that fits snuggly IN THE FLANGE to go through and mark the cardboard. You only want a dimple in the paper; something that will show your center. Now, you have a pattern to transfer the information to your new drill guide.

I would use the 'emboss' as a guide in the shirtboard and cut out a hole for the square. Then, put the glued side (top) on the 'manifold side' of the drill guide and center punch the new hole in the back side of the drill guide. Drilling from the back side of your drill guide should give better accuracy for when you go in from the front because the back side sits right over the broken bolt. Go slow and steady.

When you make your first centerpunch, do it lightly then measure from the opposite bolt hole for accuracy. BTW, IF you separate the square from your new drill guide, spray paint it first, so you can re-locate it in the same place.

Quote:
Originally Posted by del View Post
Also just to confirm, on those surge tank mount holes, I am positive that they don't go all the way through like the water pump holes do....
Reach inside the thermostat hole in your intake manifold with your finger or use a dentist's mirror to see the back side of the holes.

Grade 5 bolts can be found at Fastenal or probably a good auto parts store. My Home Depot carries them too. If you can get grade 8, better yet. They're 5/16" in diameter.
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  #30  
Old 10-20-2018, 10:50 AM
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No tap yet. Maybe today?

Thanks for that detailed explanation on the pattern. I'm heading to the garage with some cardboard and will report back later

Here are some pics of the inside of those holes. Maybe my intake is not stock but the ends of the bolts are not visible.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg GoodHoleInside.JPG (123.1 KB, 63 views)
File Type: jpg BrokeHoleInside.JPG (91.8 KB, 66 views)
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