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Convert Road Draft Tube System To PCV System

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  • marsh-rosi
    Newbie
    • Mar 6 2016
    • 2

    Convert Road Draft Tube System To PCV System

    On our 59 T-Bird, we have had a lot of oil blow-by through the draft tube system behind the intake manifold. Not a big problem, if the car is moving, but when idling at intersections the fumes can be overwhelming. So I purchased the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) adapter kit from John Draxler of the Thunderbird Ranch. Cost was $50 + $10 shipping. Good investment! Easy installation. All I did was remove the draft tube and install the adapter, with the PCV valve (hose) going into the base plate under the carburetor. Piece of cake, thanks to the information that the Squarebird web site provided on this subject. Much appreciated! Problem solved, no more smelly oil fumes!
  • Dan Leavens
    Moderator / Administrator


    • Oct 4 2006
    • 6377

    #2
    Marshall thanks for your comment about our site. These gals and guys really know their stuff and provide solutions

    Piece of cake, thanks to the information that the Squarebird web site provided on this subject. Much appreciated!
    Dano Calgary,Alberta Canada
    Thunderbird Registry
    58HT #33317
    60 HT (Sold )

    Comment

    • del
      Retired Expert Enthusiast
      • May 11 2010
      • 312

      #3
      PCV and Edelbrock 1406

      Originally posted by marsh-rosi
      On our 59 T-Bird, we have had a lot of oil blow-by through the draft tube system behind the intake manifold. Not a big problem, if the car is moving, but when idling at intersections the fumes can be overwhelming. So I purchased the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) adapter kit from John Draxler of the Thunderbird Ranch. Cost was $50 + $10 shipping. Good investment! Easy installation. All I did was remove the draft tube and install the adapter, with the PCV valve (hose) going into the base plate under the carburetor. Piece of cake, thanks to the information that the Squarebird web site provided on this subject. Much appreciated! Problem solved, no more smelly oil fumes!
      Hi Marshall,
      I'm considering doing the same on my '60 because of fumes sitting at stop lights, but I'll need to bring the hose around to the front since that's where the PCV port is on my Edelbrock 1406. Spoke to a techie at Edelbrock about this plug (see pic) on the back of the carb and he agreed that it could be used with the proper 1/4" NPT fitting but recommended using the front port for better circulation.

      Certainly lots of discussions on various websites on this topic and one thing is for sure that emissions control and PCV have matured over the years. There are lots of opinions on how to introduce these features on a car that wasn't designed that way in the first place. I haven't seen any comments from folks who have upgraded but wished they didn't, or who would have done it differently "if I knew then what I know now...". My goal is to get rid of the fumes and do no harm. I have a spare set of valve covers if I want or need to go to the next step.
      Attached Files
      Regards,
      Don Vincent
      Amherst NY
      1960 HT 352
      TBird Registry 34042

      Comment

      • Deanj
        Super-Experienced
        • Nov 26 2015
        • 631

        #4
        Roger that, and I would like to convert my 1960. I've been using the old vacuum windshield wiper line as the vacuum source for my PB booster. So I can find a new source for the brakes and use this for the PCV hose because it seems logical as it's closer. There should be a free vacuum operated fuel pump line somewhere. Let me understand this conversion. Connect a hose with a PCV valve from the draft tube opening to a good source of vacuum?

        Does the draft tube come out "no problem"?

        Dean

        Comment

        • marsh-rosi
          Newbie
          • Mar 6 2016
          • 2

          #5
          Convert Road Draft Tube System To PCV System

          Hi Dean,

          In answer to your question, our draft tube came out very easily. You have to jack up the right front side of your car for clearance, block it for safety, then crawl under it close to the starter. You only have to remove 1 bolt. Then wiggle the draft tube a little bit, and presto it should come right off. If not, gently tap it with a hammer. Good luck.

          Marshall In Montana

          Comment

          • Woobie
            Experienced
            • Apr 1 2016
            • 146

            #6
            Originally posted by del
            ............Hi Marshall,
            I'm considering doing the same on my '60 because of fumes sitting at stop lights, ................
            Take note that these fumes at stoplights through the road draft tube may also be sourced back to the accumulation of sludge under the intake manifold, on the valley pan and from the valley itself. Sometimes like jello, sometimes like a hardened resin. The exhaust crossover in the intake manifold doesn't help any as the heat buildup can be substantial. There may be no fumes in this scenario when the engine is first started and cold.
            Austin

            Comment

            • pbf777
              Experienced
              • Jan 9 2016
              • 282

              #7
              Originally posted by del
              Hi Marshall,
              I'm considering doing the same on my '60 because of fumes sitting at stop lights, but I'll need to bring the hose around to the front since that's where the PCV port is on my Edelbrock 1406. Spoke to a techie at Edelbrock about this plug (see pic) on the back of the carb and he agreed that it could be used with the proper 1/4" NPT fitting but recommended using the front port for better circulation.
              Note that both of these port accesses, front or rear, engages the intake manifold plenum under the carburetor symmetricly just mirrored, the only possible advantage to utilizing the port on the primary vs secondary side perhaps, would be a possible increase in air motion or velocity due to a greater air flow value thru the primary throttles under lower throttle angles, an effect not necessarily established.

              In other words........just plumb it to the rear if it "fits" better that way!

              Scott.

              Comment

              • del
                Retired Expert Enthusiast
                • May 11 2010
                • 312

                #8
                Originally posted by Woobie
                Take note that these fumes at stoplights through the road draft tube may also be sourced back to the accumulation of sludge under the intake manifold, on the valley pan and from the valley itself. Sometimes like jello, sometimes like a hardened resin. The exhaust crossover in the intake manifold doesn't help any as the heat buildup can be substantial. There may be no fumes in this scenario when the engine is first started and cold.
                Yes I suppose that could be true. I'm guessing but there's probably no way to inspect w/o removing the intake manifold?
                Regards,
                Don Vincent
                Amherst NY
                1960 HT 352
                TBird Registry 34042

                Comment

                • Woobie
                  Experienced
                  • Apr 1 2016
                  • 146

                  #9
                  Originally posted by del
                  Yes I suppose that could be true. I'm guessing but there's probably no way to inspect w/o removing the intake manifold?

                  Now that you mention it, the probe cameras would work in this case, with a light source...
                  Austin

                  Comment

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