Disc Conversion Kit

[Sherman]

I have been plugging away on this project and in spite of a few hang-ups I have been able to successfully mount the 14" KH wheels on my front disk brakes.

I am now on the booster and MC. I thought that I remember reading that the under-dash, KH booster would have to be removed and the pedal would have to be replaced with same pedal assembly but without the attachments on the pedal for the KH booster. Is this true? Or can just leave it and change the push rod?
Is there a simple way to change the push rod on the KH style brake without removing the pedal from the top pin?

This would change the amount of pressure needed to actuate the brakes...

I also noticed that the new push rod eyelet that attaches to the pedal assembly is smaller in diameter than the OEM "eccentric" on the pedal. Has anyone else encountered this? Should I try to hone the eyelet out or is there an alternative?

[YellowRose]

Disc Conversion Kit

Hi Sherman, I see you are making progress! As for the under dash KH booster, it does NOT have to be removed. Both Howard and I (and I think some others) left ours in place and operational. It has not caused us any problems at all. As I recall, neither I or Howard had to remove or replace the push rod on the KH under dash booster. We hooked right up to it, if memory serves me right. Howard can refresh my memory perhaps. I will let someone else answer your question regarding the push rod eyelet. I don't want to give you the wrong answer. I don't recall us having a problem with that though, but we used MBM equipment and not ABS gear.

[Sherman]

It appears that honing it out is going to make the wall thickness to thin. I think that I am going to cut the original push rod and run a die over it.

[YellowRose]

Disc Conversion Kit

Before you do that, Sherman, you might see what Dave ~ simplyconnected, or others have to say who have been down this road before.

[simplyconnected]

Yes, we have been here a few times.
Back in post #28 I offered this:

First of all, I have heard that KH wire wheels fit over calipers. Why don't you at least try them???...

Since then, I noticed others (who have not done this conversion) have also given advice, so I shied away.

You may keep your booster under the dash but as Howard Prout discovered, it really makes no difference in brake performance. Those boosters were designed as a 'mechanical override' to help the pedal and many have long since stopped working because of the materials used back in the day. So, keep it if you like. Otherwise, pull it (and the vacuum accumulator) out, and use the space under your LH fender for an electric wiper washer bottle.

No brake pedal or support changes need to be done. Ray's brake pedal rod was custom made and NOT factory. The rod you show is clearly not made for a Squarebird setup and I would NOT bore it out. Cutting threads on your original rod may be a good way to go, just to give you some adjustment. Otherwise, look in the 'Members Only" forum for the "hockey stick" drawings that Howard Prout submitted. They are part of the whole firewall bracket set.

This conversion should be viewed as an entire system, and each part should be carefully chosen to work with the others. There are different systems our members have successfully used but all of them are custom-built.

After doing mine, I changed the rear brake cylinders to ones with a smaller diameter because they were still locking up. Most combination proportioning valves give a 70%/30% split which is close, but it may not be exactly what your car needs.

Ford bought the original brake systems and in my opinion (and after doing my own retrofit) I found the OEM system to be dangerously inferior. Even so, Bendix chose the OEM drum diameter and width of the rear brakes as well as the cylinder diameters to proportionally match the front brake stopping power. You must do the same using two different methods of braking.

You can do this with a good understanding of brake systems, knowledge of hydraulics and mechanical actions.

When done, you should enjoy far better stopping, modern equipment and a choice of parts that are readily available at most auto parts stores. - Dave

[Sherman]

Thanks again,

I did leave the KH brake booster on the car. My friend and I then cut and threaded the original push rod to work with the "bolt-on" kit.

I have a proportioning valve ordered and pending no more "bolt-on" issues, I am a couple days away from bending the brake line, pluming in the brake light switch, and bleeding the system.

I would like to make the Woodward Dream Cruise at the end of August. Does anyone else attend this event?

[simplyconnected]

...I would like to make the Woodward Dream Cruise at the end of August. Does anyone else attend this event?

Yes. In fact, I wrote about this just yesterday:

http://squarebirds.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=15503

- Dave

[Sherman]

Update

Hello, I wanted to give everyone an update on my conversion. All-in-all it was a success. Not everything was exactly as promised as a "bolt on" kit. About 3-4 calls and 3-5 emails they did confirm what I thought to be true. After much diligence they have followed through on my request (incorrect directions, wrong parts, missing parts, waiting for correct parts...etc) and the kit was installed.

In the end the "bolt-on" kit is compatible with the factory A/C unit and the 14" Kelsey Hayes wheels. I still have some minor tweeking to do, but the car has been back on the road for about 100+ miles.

The braking difference is 100% better and makes the car much more enjoyable to drive. Most importantly it is much safer!!

Thank you for all your help and guidance!!

Next mission: Sway Bar!

[simplyconnected]

Good goin'. Did you take pictures of your brake conversion? If so, we would like to see them.

This brake conversion goes much easier if your Squarebird came with power brakes with the booster under the hood. Why? Because all the parts from the brake pedal to the firewall bracket can be reused. Simply drill new booster holes in the OEM bracket and mount a two-stage 8" booster with a dual M/C.

I plumbed my cars with CUNIFER brake line (it won't rust),a pair of brake line pliers and I used brass IFF nuts. I got the softest pads I could find. They grab the best with no noise.

Glad to hear your retrofit works well. - Dave