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1963 - Hot air choke and brake booster vacuum

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  • Ickaber
    Apprentice
    • Mar 22 2013
    • 88

    #16
    Originally posted by KULTULZ
    In that case, you might want to consider an electric choke that will negate the fitting of hot air tubes.
    I've been considering that, but thought that if I could just hook up what's there it might be okay. On the other hand, the electric choke is only a few dollars more than the hot air choke tube kit.

    Are there any performance or other considerations to take into account between hot air and electric chokes? I just want the car to start smoothly, so whatever accomplishes that is okay by me. Having no choke at all at the moment, I just have to pump the gas a lot to get it started, and then keep it revved for a couple of minutes until it warms up a little bit. So the bar for performance is pretty low. It also helps that we've had pretty warm weather lately, by Pacific Northwest standards.

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    • KULTULZ

      #17
      Actually, the OEM hot air choke will work better, especially in cold ambient air re-starts.

      The tubes will have to be fashioned from a universal kit. The insulation (white) on the hot tube is available. Is the choke mechanism functional or just adjusted to constant off?

      Comment

      • Ickaber
        Apprentice
        • Mar 22 2013
        • 88

        #18
        Originally posted by simplyconnected
        Now, measure between your marks.
        The 352 has a stroke = 3.5"
        The 390 has a stroke = 3.78" That's a quarter inch longer.

        Generally speaking, if your marks are anything more than 3-1/2" apart, you have a 390.
        I finally got around to measuring yesterday and my marks came out dead on 4". So even assuming some margin of error in my measurement, it seems that I'm likely over the 3.5" mark.
        Last edited by Ickaber; April 2, 2013, 12:04 PM.

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        • Ickaber
          Apprentice
          • Mar 22 2013
          • 88

          #19
          Originally posted by KULTULZ
          Actually, the OEM hot air choke will work better, especially in cold ambient air re-starts.

          The tubes will have to be fashioned from a universal kit. The insulation (white) on the hot tube is available. Is the choke mechanism functional or just adjusted to constant off?
          Two universal kits at only $9.99 each, plus better performance...I think I've found my solution. I'll let you know how it goes after I get them connected.

          As always, thanks much.

          Comment

          • Ickaber
            Apprentice
            • Mar 22 2013
            • 88

            #20
            Originally posted by KULTULZ
            Your first step is to insure you have the correct vacuum signal at the manifold fitting (17HG and above).
            Well, I got waylaid by the detent plate replacement. I know, it shouldn't take that long, but I got it all apart one evening and needed something or other that I didn't have before I could put it back, and the next thing I knew it was two weeks later.

            I finally got time, and a vacuum tester, so just checked and have 18 Hg at the end of the hose that would connect to the booster check valve. Next I'll pull the check valve and test it. Hopefully, it won't take another two weeks.

            Comment

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