Top Won't Go Up

[dgs]

I fixed the image (I hope).

Well, I got it all back together and no change. First time I put the decklid down I got that same click but no screws turning. I pulled the wood block, raised the deck lid and tried again. No click at all this time.

The first time I kept hitting the switch hoping that it'd go and I noticed the top of the dash switch got pretty hot. It cooled down after it sat for a bit.

I'm at a loss right now and it's late so I give up for the moment. It's in the decklid unlock circuit, I'm betting a bad connection someplace. So I guess I've got to track wires. Sigh.

I'd love suggestions as where to look first ...

[dgs]

I just realized that your illustration above, and my car, have 12 relays. The top manual only documents 10. What are the other two relays for?

[jopizz]

Ford added two extra solenoid relays later in the year. I would check your screw lock motor next and make sure it's going in both directions. I just recently had one that only worked in one direction. If you have a test light or volt meter I would disconnect the four wire connector that goes into the motor. Put the test light on the red/yellow wire on the harness side and hit the top switch with your wood block in place. If you get power then all your circuitry is good and the motor is defective.

John

[jopizz]

Here's the diagram with the relays and what they do.

[dgs]

No power at the connector at the rear bulkhead. To be sure I was checking it right (I put the red meter probe in the connector and the black on a ground screw) I checked the yellow red wire while running the decklid down and got 13 volts.

I then checked at the top of the relay, red on the terminal toward the center of the car, black on the relay mount plate and got zero there too.

That means it's either the relay or between the dash switch and the relay, right? Since I'm getting power to other circuits, that would indicate a bad relay, right?

[jopizz]

Were you testing the relay with the connector still on? When you hit the top switch it sends power to the orange wire to energize the relay and that powers the red/yellow wire that goes to the motor.

[dgs]

Yes, the connector was still connected. Is that how I should have done it? I had the probe on the top of the relay, not in the connector so I would assume that it wouldn't matter.

So, if I test between ground and the other terminal and get 12 volts that would confirm a bad relay, right?

[jopizz]

As long as you have the probe on the metal prong between the relay and the connector you're good. Which prong did you have the probe on; where the orange wire is or where the red/yellow wire is or did you do both. I assume you hit the top switch or had a helper do it. Did you hear the relay click. You should get 12 volts on the orange wire whether or not you hear the relay click. If the relay clicks and you don't get 12 volts on the red/yellow the relay is bad or the contacts are dirty. If you get 12 volts on the orange wire and the relay doesn't click it's definitely bad.

[dgs]

I had my daughter activate the switch while I checked it.

I think I tested the red/yellow, but the way the connector is molded I'm not 100% sure. It was the one nearest to the center of the car. I never heard a click in the relay, only an occasional loud click from over near the pump. I sounded like it was from the top solenoid valve.

I need to go back and check both terminals. If I get 12V at the other, then the relay is bad. Do you know if any of the other relays are the same one? I could swap them and see if it fixes it.

When I had it apart, it did not look that dirty. I lightly sanded the contacts (I hope I was right that that was how they were supposed to be cleaned. )

Assuming it's the relay, are the relays available? Is there a best place to buy one?

[jopizz]

It looks like the one to the left of it and the one in front of it are both two wire relays so you can swap them if the connector will reach. The one in front of it is the deck lock relay so the symptom should reverse itself.

[jopizz]

The relay you're testing should look like this I believe. From this angle the red/yellow is on the left and the orange is on the right. Looking at it from the rear of the car it's the opposite. I got this picture from Mac's. They're about $57 new.

[dgs]

BINGO!

I swapped the wiring and plugged the unlock wires into the lock relay and the symptoms reversed. So, I either didn't clean it well or there's something else wrong with it. Unless they're expensive, I think I'm going to order one just to put this to bed.

As an aside, My Grandfather's friend struck again. He had the deck lock and tray erect wiring reversed. It worked fine since they are the same relay type but it confused me because the wiring colors didn't match. I put it right. I need to check the others, sigh.

[dgs]

Ha, I missed your post. Yes, that's what I was testing.

$57 is more than I was hoping, but what can I do. I need my summer T'bird fix.

I'll check the other vendors but there usually isn't much difference.

[jopizz]

I'm glad you were able to figure it out. If the relay doesn't click most likely the windings are broken. I've never had any luck repairing them. Did you clean between the bottom plate and the magnet. If it's corroded there it would cause the relay not to energize.

[jopizz]

If that's more than you wanted to spend let me know. I should have one laying around that I can test and send to you if you want.