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  #11  
Old 08-29-2018, 09:59 PM
Derbird Derbird is offline
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I have a brand new push rod sitting in my shop that I will not use, the builder put a new one in and I am using an in tank electric pump. Shoot me a price.
Drill rod could wear the lobe off the cam. I assume the brass end is supposed to be sacrificed.
Don’t know if you got the old one out yet, but the easy way is to remove the fuel pump, take a punch and hammer and remove the frost plug above the pump and pull the rod straight out.
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  #12  
Old 08-30-2018, 12:42 PM
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partsetal partsetal is offline
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I have to agree that the drill rod would cause unnecessary wear on the cam. Here is a photo of the back side of the timing cover showing the mounting of the push rod and the brass tip.
Carl
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File Type: jpg 430pushrod.JPG (63.9 KB, 76 views)
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  #13  
Old 08-30-2018, 03:41 PM
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simplyconnected simplyconnected is offline
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The fuel pump eccentric is hardened and smooth. If the drill rod end is (polished) smooth it would not wear the eccentric.

BTW, fuel pump arms are also hardened steel and they work just fine on eccentrics of all engine brands.

We have other examples of two hardened surfaces that wipe like cam lobes and lifters that see extreme pressures from valve springs. This application doesn't have extreme pressure.

The fuel pump pushrod is a pretty simple part with no critical tolerances involved and no real excessive loading but bronze parts are sacrificial and they should be expected to wear. Sometimes, the bronze end mushrooms, making extraction difficult or nearly impossible. When that happens it's time to remove the timing cover.

Ford isn't paying for expensive drill rod in production quantities.

Put grease on the ends of whatever rod you install. - Dave
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  #14  
Old 08-31-2018, 01:47 PM
pbf777 pbf777 is offline
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As I recall, apparently, there have been different length and configuration pushrods over the years in the MEL 430 engines:
1958-63 was 4.875" (+/-)
1963-65 was 4.812" (+/-), length also shared with the 462 cu.in but w/o brass insert.

I believe the brass tip would be required on the earlier engine units as the eccentric bolted to the camshaft was of one piece design lending to a direct loading or wiping effect upon the wear faces. And when unacceptable service was realized from excessive wear of the softer sacrificial brass (some sort of yellow metal alloy) a pushrod of steel w/o brass was utilized, but this was coupled to an eccentric of two piece design providing an additional rotary motion w/ a deflection effect for compatibility.

There were also different fuel pump assemblies utilized with different pump arms, which coupled with the different eccentrics may explain the required pushrod length differences. So realize that mixing inappropriate components may lead to unsatisfactory performance. Do your home work, establish what you have.

And, I would definitely recommend against using "drill-rod" material as a substitute!

And as a note: the camshaft to lifter relationship is not one of "wiping" (unless the cam is "wiped-out"), but rather of a rotary travel effect of the lifter face rolling off center across the cam lobe surface.

Scott.
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  #15  
Old 09-07-2018, 10:44 PM
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Manaboy Manaboy is offline
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Thank you all for the technical info. I fabricated a cap to fit on the push rod. Works. In addition, I ordered a new tank, fuel line and in-line fuel pump.
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