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Old 08-07-2018, 05:51 PM
Tbird1044 Tbird1044 is offline
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In the one picture that somewhat shows the heads on the bolts, it sure doesn't look like a grade 8 bolt, unless there are different international markings. I'm pretty sure grade 8 is recommended in this application.
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Old 08-08-2018, 01:41 AM
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simplyconnected simplyconnected is offline
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Originally Posted by Tbird1044 View Post
In the one picture that somewhat shows the heads on the bolts, it sure doesn't look like a grade 8 bolt, unless there are different international markings. I'm pretty sure grade 8 is recommended in this application.
You're so right, Nyles. The closer I look at this product the more I dislike it.

Check out the next three pictures. Metric bolts must have a hardness number on the head (like 8.8 or 10). SAE bolts must have hash marks. I see something that looks like hashmarks but I cannot count 6, which would designate a grade-8 bolt. These are NOT grade-8. When I first looked at these bolts I didn't pay much attention for three reasons: They appear too long to me. Look at the recess where the bolt goes through the ball joint (in the bottom picture next to the dome). Either a bolt head or a nut nestles in there with no room for a tool. I keep a supply of socket-head cap screws which ARE grade-8. That's the only screw I would use on my ball joints. Most of the replacement ball joints came with socket head screws. Another problem is, that undercut just before the threads start. That is the weakest part of these bolts. Rolled threads don't have that. In fact, when the dies roll threads, the bolt's shank (or shoulder) ends up being smaller in diameter because rolling threads raises the major diameter of the threads much like knurling.

The second picture shows the thread depth of the ball joint's stud. To me, those threads are mighty scant. Add that to scant threads on a nut and we have the cause and affect of this thread.

The last picture shows two tack welds to hold the shells together. There may be three welds (one hidden at the bottom) but I've never seen welded ball joints. - Dave
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File Type: jpg bolts2.jpg (115.5 KB, 75 views)
File Type: jpg bolts3.jpg (118.2 KB, 76 views)
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Old 08-08-2018, 03:08 PM
kimmc kimmc is offline
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Default We were real lucky recently...

I need to reply to this discussion. The ball joint discussed by Dave D. and Nyles is not the one I used. While I did identify the part number and approximate cost of the ball joint purchased off eBay, I intentionally did not speculate about the vendor as I have been unable to find the purchase document. I have attached a picture of the ball joint I used. It is not welded and does use grade 8 bolts. I am confident that the ball joint installation was correct and torque specs were followed. The ball joint remained securely bolted in place, it was the castle nut that failed. In my opinion, the bore of the castle nut was over-size which resulted in poor and inadequate threads. Until this incident, I never fully appreciated the critical job that single castle nut does to maintain the integrity of the front suspension. I am sure that driving and road impacts to the front suspension and the downward force of that large spring on the A arm are enough to strip a poorly manufactured castle nut from the ball joint stud. This incident got my attention. For sure I will pay a lot more attention to the lower ball joints in the future.
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Old 08-09-2018, 08:45 AM
OX1 OX1 is offline
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This company talks a good game and appears to be neither of the one's shown previously in this thread.

Google this (PN does not directly come up on their site). RP10112

Still has what looks like a shorter nut. IIRC, I noticed this and
ended up using the stock castle nut. But I'm going to check to see next time she's up on ther lift.

As for bolts. I rarely use the supplied bolts on parts that are "really important" no matter
what they are rated. I buy quality bolts through McMaster or Fastenal. Funny that
the bolts with this joint have no markings either.
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Old 08-09-2018, 11:53 AM
pbf777 pbf777 is offline
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Unfortunately, this is another instance where due to product being produced overseas by individuals with no concern for the quality or repercussions due to a marketing strategy of: "make-it-cheap, stupid-Americans-only-buy-cheap", the product proves substandard; and we actually have only ourselves to blame, because obviously as evidence of their success, it is apparently true!

Note that when fasteners our produced in bulk for a contract order, they may not necessarily exhibit the anticipated "hash" marks or other typical nomenclature for a number of reasons. This is why if one had confidence in the product, it would be advised to always use the provided fasteners as proper engineering concerns would (should) have been addressed. But if one witnesses standard hardware store grade fasteners as provided for attachment, perhaps one may want to review the installation requirements.

As far as the "knee-jerk" reaction to just use the grade-8 fastener (particularly hardware/box store, plated examples) or some other thought to be super-high-grade unit in all instances, as a "safe bet", this may be ill advised, for too many reasons to cover in this thread, but with some research on the specific application on ones' own may prove it's worth.

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