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  • simplyconnected
    Administrator
    • May 26 2009
    • 8778

    #31
    Originally posted by djberson
    ...This is not a "slow blow" type event, it is a BAM!...
    Yes, I understand completely. If you use the Test Light as your troubleshooting tool, it will protect your wires and it will not blow a fuse. Simply put, the bulb you use in your test light will limit current and only allow enough to make the bulb shine brightly.

    So, let's say you have all your dash lights installed, you pull the blue-red off the headlight switch and you connect it to your test light while the other test lead is on POSITIVE. If you have a dead short, none of the dash lights will light but the test light will shine brightly. You pull a bulb out of the dash and nothing changes. Plug it back in because that one is good. Let's say the next one you pull out causes the rest of the dash lights to shine but at a dim intensity AND the test light will dim as well. That would prove, the bulb you just pulled out is the culprit.

    Let's keep going and say you're gun shy even after you corrected the problem and you need to know if the dash lights will blow another rheostat... Put a meter between the blue-red wire and positive, and set the meter to AMPS (ten amps). All the dash lights should shine at full brilliance and the meter display will show how many amps the whole circuit draws.

    There are a few things learned from this problem:
    • The rheostat max rating is UNDER the fuse rating (or the fuse would have blown first).
    • All electrical circuits can be tested before power is applied.
    • Use quality parts to minimize the probability of failure.


    Questions? - Dave
    Member, Sons of the American Revolution

    CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

    "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
    --Lee Iacocca

    From: Royal Oak, Michigan

    Comment

    • djberson
      Experienced
      • Jun 10 2012
      • 110

      #32
      I figured out the problem, but it it not yet solved. The circuit is shorting out when the shift selector is put hard into park. I only figured this out because the sparking at the headlamp switch and a corresponding "sparky" sound coming from behind the cluster stops when I put the parking brake on and shift out of park and through the gears. The problem starts again in park, when the selector is firmly to the left (which for some reason it was when I installed the new switches that consequently blew out). So, I know the cause of the problem but before I start ripping the steering column apart, can anyone more knowledgeable than I give me a pointer as to where to start?

      Comment

      • simplyconnected
        Administrator
        • May 26 2009
        • 8778

        #33
        Jordan, did you connect a test light or a meter? Did you try troubleshooting using a sound troubleshooting technique?

        As long as you keep getting sidetracked, you will only happen upon the cause by chance or by luck. I gave you the fundamental procedure and even suggested using the correct tools. If you use these practices they WILL lead you to the cause. On the other hand, if you cannot follow through from 'A' to 'B' ... your best move will be to hire an electrician who can.

        There is no reason to continue frying wires and components because a test light protects these devices when connected as I directed. From your description, you have crossed your neutral switch wires with your rheostat wiring. None of these circuits should be grounded.

        You have not 'figured out the problem' but you did find more symptoms. I have already pointed out 'where to start' but you have a different agenda. Good luck. - Dave
        Member, Sons of the American Revolution

        CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

        "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
        --Lee Iacocca

        From: Royal Oak, Michigan

        Comment

        • jopizz
          Super-Experienced


          • Nov 23 2009
          • 8308

          #34
          I would check where the turn signal wires come out of the steering column. It sounds like something is getting pinched. It could be internal inside the column also. There's only three circuits inside the steering column; the turn signals, the horn and the indicator light.

          John
          John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

          Thunderbird Registry #36223
          jopizz@squarebirds.org 856-779-9695

          https://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

          Comment

          • djberson
            Experienced
            • Jun 10 2012
            • 110

            #35
            Dave, Please do not be offended... Yes-- I began to follow your instructions with socket inspection / wire alignments, bulb tester and by nothing was wrong! I looked at all the wires to be sure they were routed correctly (a fourth time) and nothing was out of place. I realized when the shift lever was knocked into the problems began again. Then they went away when I giggled the selector moving it toward the right side of the "catch" at the P position. It was an accidental discovery.

            Comment

            • simplyconnected
              Administrator
              • May 26 2009
              • 8778

              #36
              I'm not offended, I only want to know what the test light did during your tests, connected as I described. If your circuit was grounded... well, let's hear your findings.

              Power for your rheostat starts at the Headlight Sw. If you pull the blue-red wire off and connect the test light to that wire, it is impossible to damage the switch or rheostat because they are unplugged. Current is then limited by the test light bulb on the blue-red wire. The red-blue wire feeds every one of the dash lights including the radio and steering column light. So, pull out a wiring diagram and locate every bulb as you unplug each one while observing the test light.

              The gear shift should have no bearing on any of the wiring unless (as John suggested,) you have wires pinched in metal and grounded. BTW, are you blowing fuses? Let's hear some of your tests and results. - Dave
              Member, Sons of the American Revolution

              CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

              "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
              --Lee Iacocca

              From: Royal Oak, Michigan

              Comment

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