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Has anyone switched out their brake booster to a later/newer type brake booster. I have a 61 Tbird with original booster (rebuilt) and a dual master cylinder that was for a later model Mustang. I am not super happy with the rebuilt one and feel there might be a vacuum leak due to the way the car bounces while in drive and brake pressed. I can't seem to stop that movement so I think I could be the booster. Plus I am told it is not strong enough for converting to disk.
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Is the later model Mustang master cyl the drum / drum or disc / drum style?
Did you add a proportioning or combination valve to the system when you installed your new master cyl?
10+ years back I converted my Squarebird to front discs and used the original booster - still working fine. Booster Dewey rebuilt it and changed the face with a Lincoln booster to accept a modern disc/drum master cyl. I also used a combination valve since I split the old single line system into two separate front disc rear drum systems. Believe you will need a proportioning or combination valve now that you have a split system. Mine does not dive or bounce - stops super nice.
The original booster should work just not as much boost as the newer dual stage boosters.
We run into a different set of problems with the Squarebird - the booster is riveted to the mounting bracket so it either has to be cut off or install a new booster and bracket. Replacing the bracket and booster only recently became an option for us - had been that cutting the old booster off and replacing was the only option (and then there is the problem with interference on the evaporator on the A/C cars - sheesh). From what I remember you can remove the style on the '61 and just bolt on a dual action booster - correct?
May be an adjustment thing too - I know the push rod length from the master cyl to the booster is adjustable on the Squarebird which makes the booster activate differently.
Here's my original style Bendix booster with the new master cyl.
and my combination valve which was supposed to go under the new master cyl but there was not enough room. Plus the bolt on the booster was not long enough so it ended up on the frame. I had planned on re-plumbing the lines to make it look good but it worked so well I just never got around to it.
Here's a link to a recent conversion and the booster parts used.
Eric -
I am not sure about the master cylinder but im guessing its drum/drum. My booster looks alot like yours but it uses screws instead of rivets. Yes, I did add a proportioning valve. I also have Drewey rebuild my booster and he is who bolted the master cylinder to the booster. When I speak of the car bouncing I am referring to the car being in Drive at idle. When it is just idling the bouncing mostly smooths out or goes away. Thank you for your reply.Comment
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I'm not sure what you mean by bouncing?
When I converted to disc on my 58, I went all GM with the master and booster. It's a Corvette master, 7" dual booster and disc/drum proportioning valve. I don't have a better photo of the new master, but look at my photobucket and you can see more of the first one I was running.
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bouncing
bouncing as in feeling the car moving up and down lightly sort of a rough idle if you willI'm not sure what you mean by bouncing?
When I converted to disc on my 58, I went all GM with the master and booster. It's a Corvette master, 7" dual booster and disc/drum proportioning valve. I don't have a better photo of the new master, but look at my photobucket and you can see more of the first one I was running.
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