Take the lense out to dry fit the voltmeter. Then replace the lense along with the metal bracket piece that you cut from the ammeter. I trimmed a little bit too much plastic, but if you do it just right the small "ears" on the Sunpro will rest on top of the OC retainer, then when you screw the lense on the screws will bottom out on the Sunpro piece.
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Here's the bottom of the unit after resoldering the electical together. I tweaked the potentiometer just enough to center the needle right in the middle with the battery that is installed in the car, engine not running.
Copious amounts of "Goop" automotive glue, which is a favorite of mine since it is heavy bodied, acts as an electrical insulator, and bonds just about everything. There's a little unused solder tab on the potentiometer that I used to secure into a 1/16" drilled jole, my only modification to the OE plastic.Attached FilesLast edited by Yadkin; December 1, 2016, 04:47 PM.Comment
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Completed assembly. I used a thinner bodied all purpose glue to attach the metal OE bent needle to the Sunpro straight plastic needle, using tweezer to set it and adjust it.Attached FilesComment
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Actually, the base of the needle pivot on the voltmeter is a tiny bar magnet that can be turned to adjust the pointer 0 mark. So I set that at the D line on the ammeter face then used the potentiometer to set battery voltage right on the middle hash mark. Adjusted, in and done.Comment
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does the guage come out easily without pulling the whole dash out?2016 FORD F150 XLT 3.5 EB SPORT 302a - 2012 KAWASAKI ZX-6R - 2012 LEGEND DELUXE V-NOSE - 2008 KAWASAKI ZZR600 - 2008 FORD FOCUS SE - 2007 KAWASAKI ZX-6R - 2002 ARTIC CAT 500 - 1990 JOHN DEERE 265 - 1966 FORD THUNDERBIRD HARDTOP TOWNComment
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The lense of the instrument comes off when you remove the single screw on the lower part of the bezel. I think that you can get to the large wire terminals at the rear if you remove the clock panel. The wires are #10 size or so, ring terminals secured by 3/8" drive nuts. Then you remove the instrument itself by removing the two screws from the front. Disconnect the battery first!
You'll need to dead end the large wires and locate their terminals at the fuse panel.
To power the volt meter you should use the radio circuit. You can find those wires by removing the metal panel at the driver's side of the console.Comment
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The lense of the instrument comes off when you remove the single screw on the lower part of the bezel. I think that you can get to the large wire terminals at the rear if you remove the clock panel. The wires are #10 size or so, ring terminals secured by 3/8" drive nuts. Then you remove the instrument itself by removing the two screws from the front.2016 FORD F150 XLT 3.5 EB SPORT 302a - 2012 KAWASAKI ZX-6R - 2012 LEGEND DELUXE V-NOSE - 2008 KAWASAKI ZZR600 - 2008 FORD FOCUS SE - 2007 KAWASAKI ZX-6R - 2002 ARTIC CAT 500 - 1990 JOHN DEERE 265 - 1966 FORD THUNDERBIRD HARDTOP TOWNComment
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The other three gauges can be removed from the front, but you'll still need to reach up behind the dash to remove the wires (or through the clock assembly opening). You have two wires for each gauge plus the bulb assembly. Remove them, service then replace individually so you don't get the wires mixed up.
The bulb assembly can be pushed out from the front. To replace, remove the bulb and use needle nose pliers to pull it back into the hole, then replace the bulb.
There is no + and - on the gauge wires, so they can be reversed and they will still work properly.Comment
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Cool, Thanks for the advice2016 FORD F150 XLT 3.5 EB SPORT 302a - 2012 KAWASAKI ZX-6R - 2012 LEGEND DELUXE V-NOSE - 2008 KAWASAKI ZZR600 - 2008 FORD FOCUS SE - 2007 KAWASAKI ZX-6R - 2002 ARTIC CAT 500 - 1990 JOHN DEERE 265 - 1966 FORD THUNDERBIRD HARDTOP TOWNComment
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