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  #31  
Old 10-20-2018, 08:08 PM
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Is that the broken easy-out in the SIDE of the threads (at about 6 o'clock) ???
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  #32  
Old 10-20-2018, 08:27 PM
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Default some success today

Quote:
Originally Posted by sidewalkman View Post
Good luck, looks like a huge pain!

Yes, it is! Obviously, not part of the plan for fall activity, and if I don't get her back together pretty soon, I'm going to have to push it out of the way so I can get my snowblower out from behind.

Tap arrived today, it is OK but envelope took a beating. It took me two tries to get the cardboard pattern to locate the second hole in the right location. You can see my first attempt was a bit off... Luckily, my square piece was a little off center as well, so by rotating it slightly I was able to get the 2nd hole lined up right over the busted bolt. Viola! a newly drilled 5mm hole in the busted bolt!
Unfortunately, I forgot to get a suitable EZout for that size hole so I will enjoy tomorrow's chilly weather watching football.
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File Type: jpg DrillGuideInAction.JPG (131.7 KB, 82 views)
File Type: jpg NewlyDrilled5MM.JPG (135.9 KB, 84 views)
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  #33  
Old 10-20-2018, 09:16 PM
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Well done!

IF the hole you drilled has taken out all the EzY-out AND is centred you could try using drill bits of increasing sizes until the last drill is just ‘kissing’ the original thread on the manifold and then use the appropriate tap to clear the thread of the remains of the original bolt.

Worked for me more than once.

I rarely use my Ezy-outs for the reason you discovered!
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  #34  
Old 10-21-2018, 10:46 AM
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Is that the broken easy-out in the SIDE of the threads (at about 6 o'clock) ???
No, that is where my original attempt to drill out the broken EZout with a regular HS bit slipped off.

IF the hole you drilled has taken out all the EzY-out AND is centred...
Well, my new hole is not perfectly centered so I think I will try the larger EZout option first... I'm sure that I got all the previous EZout out, so that's a plus.



Plan for today is to continue to alternate MAP gas heat with pb blaster. A bit cool in the garage this morning..outdoor temp 34F
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  #35  
Old 10-21-2018, 11:02 AM
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Default Any used one of these?

Anyone have luck with the type in the upper-left? How exactly do you use it?
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  #36  
Old 10-21-2018, 11:35 AM
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Drive it into the drilled hole with a hammer, and then twist. The square shape bites into and grips the broken bolt.
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  #37  
Old 10-21-2018, 11:46 PM
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The square-shaped extractor allows you to finesse the broken bolt in BOTH directions whereas the twisted type will only work in one direction. The 'trade-off' is, instead of digging in with several sides, the square digs in with four. Don't pound it in too hard or the threads will simply bind.

Using a 4-sided extractor is important in cases where the broken bolt will move slightly, then bind. Working it back and forth will sometimes allow the movement to extend more and more. So rather than 'gorilla-ing' the broken piece, a bit of finesse will ease the bind as the piece unscrews.

I would try with the spiral first. If you get motion, then a bind, use the square but turn the screw back IN (then out, in, out...). The guys at work like extracting screws with heat. I prefer to wait and let the area cool.

You did well by pulling the heat-treat out of the broken easy out before drilling through it BTW, the tap I sent is a starting tap. It will only go so far. Then, you should use a bottoming tap. If you get lucky and are able to turn the original screw out, use the tap, then go the rest of the way with a grade-8 bolt and plenty of penetrating oil as you work it in and out. - Dave
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  #38  
Old 10-22-2018, 10:41 PM
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Default no luck yet with extractor

My first attempts with the spiral style extractor were not successful. I tries two different sizes, but so far that sucker won't budge. More to come...
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  #39  
Old 10-28-2018, 06:24 PM
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Default I see threads!

I used a variety of implements to chisel the old bolt out and have finally exposed the threads. Had to grind a chisel point on that tool in the center which turned out to be the most useful.

So next step is that tap Dave sent me. Right now about 5/16" of it will fit in the hole before any resistance. I have never tapped a hole so any pointers for the rookie are appreciated. Any lubricant? Just let the tool do the work I presume...but tips on what to watch for?

Meanwhile has anyone had any experience with these, just in case? Got the tip from one of our club members. http://www.timesert.com/
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File Type: jpg Tools.JPG (135.6 KB, 55 views)
File Type: jpg Threads_1.JPG (131.2 KB, 54 views)
File Type: jpg Threads_2.JPG (128.2 KB, 55 views)
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  #40  
Old 10-28-2018, 06:37 PM
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Do you have an air compressor?? Even a very small one for a nail gun?? If so, cover the hole with a rag and blow air into the hole to remove any rust or chips. If no compressor, even a soda straw will work!

Then start the tap, add some light oil and carefully twist about a half a turn, the back out a half, then try a full turn, than out a full turn. Continue if resistance is not great for a couple of turns. Then remove tap, cover, and blow out oil and any debris. Start over and keep doing the slow twisting of the tap several more times till you are at the bottom of the hole, and keep blowing out the debris. I see remnants of the original threads in the hole, and you (hopefully) should not need the threaded insert.

Bear in mind, you are not cutting new threads, but "chasing" or cleaning up the original threads. Bottom taps are also available which can be used to chase the threads nearly to the bottom of this blind hole. Don't get in a hurry, and NEVER push sideways!!! only twist the tap, trying to stay over the center, and frequently blow out the chips. The hard part is done, just have to restore the threads as best as possible and reassemble.

As a side note, make sure the bolts used are short enough to tighten before hitting the bottom of this blind hole.
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