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Old 06-01-2014, 06:15 PM
mergl12 mergl12 is offline
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Default Brake Problems

Had my 1960 Bird in three times for break issues because the heat up and lock. Is it possible that after rebuilding the master cylinder that the break lines were not properly bled causing air in the break lines to expand making the brake drums heat up eventually lock. When the car sits and things cool down the breaks release.

Any thoughts.
Thanks Larry
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Old 06-01-2014, 06:35 PM
Nicolas Nicolas is offline
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I'd rather look at the master vac. I had the same issue and the master vac was damaged.

No way the expansion of air due to heat in the circuit could create enough pressure increase to be the reason of your problem.

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Old 06-01-2014, 06:36 PM
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jopizz jopizz is offline
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Air in the lines would cause the opposite problem. Your brakes would not engage. Since you said the master cylinder was rebuilt I would look at that as the culprit. It's not as easy as just throwing a rebuild kit in it and hoping it works. Did you use the correct size kit. Was the cylinder honed and an oversize kit used. Most master cylinders will wear to the point that a standard size kit will not work.

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Old 06-01-2014, 09:48 PM
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simplyconnected simplyconnected is offline
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I would like to raise a simple 'truth'...

When the Master Cylinder is at rest (with your foot off the pedal and the spool is retracted), the lines are open to the reservoir(s), to allow brake fluid to return as the shoes and pads retract.

Conversely, if the spool is held in for any reason, the reservoir is blocked off and pressure is allowed to build in the lines.

There are two adjustments that can hold the M/C spool in:
The brake pedal rod at the pedal bolt,
The booster output rod (between the booster and the M/C).

Proper setup and adjustment for both areas are covered in the Service Manual (that nobody reads unless they have to).

Originally Posted by jopizz View Post
... Since you said the master cylinder was rebuilt I would look at that as the culprit...John
I agree, John. It is possible the spool is not retracting all the way, internally. I would want to see the spool hit that snap ring.
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Last edited by simplyconnected : 06-01-2014 at 10:03 PM.
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Old 06-02-2014, 08:51 AM
Charles Nix Charles Nix is offline
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Default Brke problems

Just went through the same thing with mine after replaceing a leaking master cylinder. The brake pedal rod was out of adjustment.......corrected the probelm by shimming the master cylinder away from the firewall with a fat washer behind each stud..........quick and MUCH easier than adjusting the cam bolt at the top of the brake pedal. Just my two cents worth. Good luck.
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Old 06-02-2014, 10:39 AM
cubbear cubbear is offline
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Default brake problem

bleed back hole in master cylinder pluged?
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Old 06-02-2014, 12:49 PM
Yadkin Yadkin is offline
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Normally I'd say check for brake shoe adjustment and you should do that first because it's easy to do in your driveway. Just jack up each corner and turn the lifted wheel by hand.

But, if those are OK and it's locking up a pair or all four it has to be the master.
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