Hinrichs 66 flairbird

[Yadkin]

Don't pull the motor to install headers. Just unbolt the mount brackets from the frame (from underneath). Put a 7" long piece of 2x8 against the front bolts of the oil pan and jack the motor up with that. You may need to also loosen transmission mounts. You then have a few inches before the top of the transmission hits the bottom of the chassis. Then you can move the engine side-to-side by hand and use wood blocks to keep it in position, giving you room to maneuver.

[Guest]

my only real reason to pull it was its covered in so much grease/oil i was going to do a quick clean. It wasnt taken care of very well. I just hope once the exhaust is fixed and I can get the brakes working better I want to keep it, cuz right now I have basically no motivation to keep it. I know it was short lived but for me it seems like it was a mistake. I feel its partly that I am overwhelmed at the moment with it. I know it is easy to work on for the most part however.

[Yadkin]

In order to make these engines not leak you have to understand the oiling system. They flood the top of the heads with oil, and the OE valve covers are too thin to torque down properly without bending. And of course if they are the original cork gaskets, they are close to 50 years old.

Pull the motor and give it a good wash. Put in new valve cover gaskets and buy a set of four "spreaders" for the lower cover bolts. They will help you approach the required torque without bending the covers too badly.

Inspect the manifold carefully- they leak like crazy at the horizontal front and rear cork seals. There is a strategy for dealing with that outlined in my build thread. Basically you throw the cork away and replace it with RTV grey.

Remove the oil pan and clean out the accumulated sludge. Felpro makes a composite gasket, and that with RTV grey (high pressure) you can make it leak-proof. Again, outlined in my build thread.

You can try putting the headers on with the engine out, but you may not be able to drop it back in like that.

[Guest]

headers showed up, ill have to take some pics of them tomorrow for everyone to see. Very nice quality it seems. Not sure when I will have time to install them however.

Where does the smaller diameter hose from the brake booster go? I have looked through my manual and cant find anything. Currently it is just plugged.

[jopizz]

Where does the smaller diameter hose from the brake booster go? I have looked through my manual and cant find anything. Currently it is just plugged.

There should be a small vacuum hose coming off the brake booster check valve that goes to the vacuum modulator on the transmission. Without it your transmission won't shift correctly. I assume that's what you are referring to.

John

[Guest]

There should be a small vacuum hose coming off the brake booster check valve that goes to the vacuum modulator on the transmission. Without it your transmission won't shift correctly. I assume that's what you are referring to.

John

I think so, the larger hose is still hooked up properly, but that smaller one thats attached at the same point is the one thats blocked. The transmission seems to shift fine, but wont go into the low gear but that could be the shifter itself since the car tends to not truly engage park properly.

[jopizz]

You should be able to see the modulator on the back of the transmission. I believe it's on the driver side. If there's no hose on it then I would run one. It definitely needs it. Someone may have run it directly from the intake instead of the booster.

John

[Guest]

i dont think there was any lines running off the intake. There is a line that is looped however on the front of the intake. It looks almost like a small valve which I am not sure where that is suppsed to go either.

[jopizz]

It sounds like someone has really doctored up the ports on the intake. Without seeing pictures I can't tell exactly what was done. I don't think there's a vacuum port on the front of the intake. It may be the heater hose connection that is looped. That's often done when the heater core leaks. There should be a hose from the front of the manifold to the carburetor base. There should be another hose from the rear of the carburetor base to the heater control valve. There should also be a vacuum hose from the back of the carburetor base at the center to the back of the intake manifold for a pcv valve. There is a vacuum T on the rear of the manifold on the passenger side I believe that goes to the brake booster. The shop manual should have a picture of the intake manifold and the hose connections.

John

[Guest]

well the lower center vac line under the carb is hooked to the tranny i think. There is also another port in the back/center of the carb id say which is not hooked up to anything, but not sure if thats just an overflow or something. I will have to redo the line goin from the tranny and connect that to the booster. I will try and get a pic of the line that is looped up front. Also think I need some power steering fluid as i am sure it is empty. Not sure if its leaking or what but seems like most fluids in this car are either low or empty. what should I use for that fluid tho?

[jopizz]

Also think I need some power steering fluid as i am sure it is empty. Not sure if its leaking or what but seems like most fluids in this car are either low or empty. what should I use for that fluid tho?

I always use Type F transmission fluid in the power steering; however any power steering fluid should work.

John

[Guest]

I will probably be putting the headers up for sale soon, doesnt seem like they will be going in anytime soon plus the car is for sale anyway.

[Guest]

car was sold and went to a good home, guy is going to restore it for the most part.