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Old 03-05-2017, 01:41 PM
19thunderbird59 19thunderbird59 is offline
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Smile Hot console on 59 Tbird

My console feels very hot while driving on the freeway. The engine seems to be at normal temperature. Does anyone have any ideas why this happens? Thanks for any suggestions.
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Old 03-05-2017, 01:49 PM
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jopizz jopizz is offline
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Your console is right above the transmission tunnel so it will get hot. You can try removing it and putting some insulation under it.

John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator
1959 Convertible

Thunderbird Registry #36223 856-779-9695
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Old 03-06-2017, 11:57 AM
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DKheld DKheld is offline
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From my experience it's just the "nature of the beast". Mine also is like that. The exhaust pipes run together directly under the tunnel also contributing to the heat. Could possibly try wrapping the exhaust with heat tape so that the heat stays in the pipes and is transferred further back. Maybe the exhaust pipes are very thin and that would cause it?

Sounds similar to the problem on our MGA's. Heat from the engine compartment and exhaust manifolds funnels down the transmission tunnel only adding to the heat (and with thin wooden floorboards on the MG's it really becomes a problem!!!).

As John mentions - about all we can do is add insulation to block the heat.

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Old 03-06-2017, 02:26 PM
Yadkin Yadkin is offline
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It's normal. But it's also very easy to insulate the top of the tunnel under the console finish materials.
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Old 03-08-2017, 02:05 AM
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sidewalkman sidewalkman is offline
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When I did the carpet in mine I completely gutted the interior of carpet, seats and console. I then completely covered almost every exposed area with Dynamat. Not only did it make a HUGE difference in the amount of road noise coming through but also dropped the interior temp a few degrees. The whole thing cost I think about 120 bucks so it was well worth it.
South Delta, BC, Canada
1960 White T-Bird, PS, PB that's it
Red Leather Interior!
Thunderbird Registry #61266
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Old 03-18-2017, 06:04 PM
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bygrace bygrace is offline
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Default hot floors

I agree on the dynamat idea. It helped when I did it along with vintage air. No need to let the AC fight those floors. I remember how hot they were driving it home from CA across AZ, NV. I couldn't keep my hand on the chrome strip on the console. But what REALLY helped make a difference was exhaust pipe heat shields I made later. All I used was roofing aluminum from the hardware store. Cut to 5 or 6 inch widths and whatever lengths fit between the bends in the pipe. Add about 3 inches of length on each end, and cut the ends into three 3 in. tabs. ( Think of a block capital letter "E".) Bend each tab down 90 and then back up 90 in about an inch. Roll the whole length into a half-round shield. The letter " E" makes three legs to stand the heat shield off the pipe an inch, and the part of each leg past the second bend is simply hose- clamped to the pipe. I put them in clear to the back seat floor. I thought about making them over using stainless of something better, but they work fine and I never felt the need. I don't know, but maybe the wrap mentioned would do as well. But this sure does make a difference. I guess the heat is reflected and carried out the rear of the shield. Let the forum know if you find out how the wrap works.
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Old 03-23-2017, 06:39 PM
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byersmtrco byersmtrco is offline
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Look at it this way, you set your coffee cup there, it'll stay warm.
In ancient Ford mechanic terms
"They all do that"

See a few posts down re; the custom 58 w/cup-holders.
John Byers
1960 Convertible (Orig owner)
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Old 03-24-2017, 09:40 AM
Yadkin Yadkin is offline
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Maybe someone can correct me, but these engines are at best, what, 30% efficient? More or less anyway. So 70% of the fuel you purchase ends up as heat instead of turning the drive wheels. At normal highway speeds you're consuming about 4 gallons per hour, so you have, in effect, a gasoline fire consuming about 2.8 gallons an hour, or about 320,000 BTUs.

The typical home furnace puts out about 100,000 BTUs.
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