Starter relay

[simplyconnected]

I have never seen a key switch in such bad condition. The plastic is separated and coming out of the housing. No wonder the key wouldn't turn. I am sure you can get your key back if you straighten the switch out (in a vise) and extract the tumbler using the button.

All of your wires are covered in the schematics, as newyear posted.

BTW, your yellow (batt) wire comes from the headlight switch. - Dave

[Mickfly70]

You got that right Dave. It fell apart as I twisted it just then. (1st photo)

The 2nd photo is the new universal key switch. Im not sure it will fit into the dash. Not to matter as I intend to rebuild original once I get new tumbler or just buy a new Macs Auto one? not sure yet.

Better news is that I bypassed the neutral safety switch (3rd photo) and the car started with a key. This is the first time is has started with a key and not a button for probably 12-15 yrs. This is exciting for me because now I have isolated the problem just like Ray said. Now I have to adjust it somehow?

Thanks Ray, Dave and Peter for your quick response and input.

Ps I'm allowed to put this on my kitchen table with the wife present because I built it from reclaimed timber from a seaplane ramp. Those small roundish indents are from the winter tires spikes of the aircraft dolly. As you can see its not as nice as Marcelo's dining table.

PSS. Just adjusted the safety switch and now it starts in Park (with no button). Got the advice from a previous post. I love this site.

[Mickfly70]

Question: Once I started the tbird (accidentally with the shift stick due to wiring?) to move it onto the driveway I had to stop the engine with the stuck key.

How do you think I did it?

I'll tell you tomorrow and the aftermath the followed! Don't worry. I didn't run into anything this time. But something I'd never had thought of happened.

[jopizz]

NAPA sells a new ignition switch with the cylinder and original style key for about $20. Echlin Part #ECH KS6457. It's not worth fooling around with your original one for that price. I just picked one up recently. If you wind up getting one make sure you check the terminals. I believe they were one off from the original switch and I hooked the wires up using the original switch instead of looking at how they were marked.

John

[lawyercalif]

Question: Once I started the tbird (accidentally with the shift stick due to wiring?) to move it onto the driveway I had to stop the engine with the stuck key.

How do you think I did it?

I'll tell you tomorrow and the aftermath the followed! Don't worry. I didn't run into anything this time. But something I'd never had thought of happened.

I would put it in park, set the emergency brake, pop the hood, get out and pull the coil wire.

[Mickfly70]

That's probably what I should have done. Well I Set the park brake and popped the hood. But instead of thinking electrical I thought fuel or air. Actually I picked air and covered the intake (air cleaner was off). It stopped nicely. What I didn't know at the time was it sucked brakefliud back through the system. I found this out because when I adjusted the safety neutral switch I pushed the brake pedal out of the way and it went to the floor. I checked the master cylinder to find it empty. No puddles on the driveway! All in the intake! I started the engine (with my new key) and smoke filled the street. Now I have to bleed the brakes. That's OK because I have to swap out a faulty pressure switch (just have to buy more brake fluid than I planned). Next time I'll pull the coil Dan.

[simplyconnected]

I hate to say, but you have bigger problems than that.

Your booster shouldn't leak and neither should your M/C. Choking off air may have boosted your vacuum, but it should NEVER cause your brake fluid to pass.

Upon further investigation, you may notice that your booster has quite a bit of brake fluid inside. Have you noticed your fluid going down with no apparent signs of a leak? That's why.

I strongly urge you to get another OEM key switch. You can use the tumbler out of the old one to keep the keys the same.
- Dave

[Mickfly70]

Thanks Dave. Good advice.
Today I bypassed the "Cadillac Bendix Vacuum Booster" (actually I took the whole thing out and plugged up the vacuum tube from the intake.

I bled the brakes and gave it a test run now I have "no" boost brakes and they seem to be exactually the same as before. So The Caddy booster was not working at all !!!

Maybe I'll do the disk brake thing one day if I can piece together everything that needs to be done. Id like to drive a tbird that has all drum boost to see how it works.

Part of me really wants to stay original though.

So anyway the beast is back on the road. Brakes works. Brake lights work (installed a new hydraulic switch) and she starts with a key!