Tech help for my '62

[fordraised]

Hi All and Happy New Year. I have a question that I hope someone can shed some light on and also looking for some "heads up".

I'm not going to get into the history of the vehicle but will say that it has been in the family for 30+ years. For the last nine it has not moved and I have taken on the project to get it going. When I first tried to get the car to move it would engage into drive but not move forward or backward and the brake pedal was stuck to the floor. So I managed to get it towed into the City and to my mechanics. I opted to not fool around and replace parts that I thought should be changed out only due to the age and the amount of time the car has not moved, so....I have ordered a new master cylinder, 4 new brake cylinders (because 3 where leaking), 4 new brake hardware kits (at my mechanics request), the 3 brake line FLEX hoses. I will opt to remove the factory Autolite carb and have it rebuilt. Install a new detent plate along with a new shift lever. For the cars mobility that will be it for now. As soon as the car is drivable I will take it to another local shop to have the tranny serviced. I should add that the car is in great condition. So my first question is: Is there anything else I should take care of immediately while at the mechanics before I pick it up and start doing small things to it. Answer this question as if it was your car.

[YellowRose]

Tech help for my '62

Since the car has been sitting for 9 years without being driven or turned over either, I gather, you might want to think about changing all the fluids. Flush the radiator, make sure it is not clogged, put in new anti-freeze. Drain all the old fluids out of the car, oil, change the oil filter, power steering, tranny fluid, etc., put fresh in, before you drive it anywhere. Those are a few things that come to mind to me. Others will probably have more ideas.

[simplyconnected]

Old gas, characterized by the funky odor, can cause a major expense. Drain it all out. I would pull the gas tank float out and look inside with a flashlight. This is easy to do from inside your trunk and it costs nothing. If you see all kinds of nastiness down there, this is the time to deal with it (not while you're out on the road). Rust and debris have nowhere to go because your gas pickup has a fine-mesh screen (which loads up and stalls your engine).

I would have matched my wheel cylinders, just to be sure they are the same. Either rebuild the old or replace each axle set. If it is not too late, buy the fourth wheel cylinder and keep the old for a spare. You will ensure the bleeder valves will work on all of them, too.

If you use DOT-3 brake fluid, change it every three years (at the very least). This pertains to ALL of your cars.

[fordraised]

That's the plan SC. I have purchased 4 cylinders even though 3 are leaking.

I may have to replace the sending unit because the gauge does not register. I'm hoping it's a wire fault, but never the less good response which leads me to this question. I thought the '62s did not have an access panel for the sending unit in the truck. If it does, that will make me very happy.

Ray, I was thinking on RE & REing the rad because I remember the car used to run a bit hot and I'm thinking the same as you that it may be clogged.

Keep the suggestions coming.

[simplyconnected]

Oops, I see you said, '62... sorry, I was thinking you had a Squarebird.

Ok, now I'm assuming we're talking about a broken fuel gauge. It's easy to troubleshoot. First thing I would do is ground the tank. Even if it means running a separate stranded copper wire from a tank corner (with a wire lug and a bolt & nut). Connect the wire to a good body connection and use quality crimp-type lugs (no solder).

If you ground the sending unit/float, the gauge should read, "Full". If it doesn't, check your 6-volt regulator under your dash. The regulator is connected directly to one side of your gauges.

What else doesn't work?

[fordraised]

I love it when the suggestion start rolling in.

The clock doesn't work but has not worked for a while. Does the same 6V reg. take care of the entire instrument cluster?? As far as stuff not working that's about it. Like I said, my priority is to get it rolling everything else is not important right now. Another item that troubles me is the brake booster, I don't know if I should pull it off and get it rebuilt at this stage of the game.

The tail lights where not that intense as far a brightness, so I will double check to see if the bulbs are the correct ones. I went out and invested in a Shop manual and I will have a look for the proper bulb sizes in the manual.

I also picked up a new set of sill plates and horns, and I'm contemplating RE & RE the head liner. I'm in a bit of a rush this morning but in my next reply I'll explain why the push to get it up and going.

[simplyconnected]

Refer to the electrical diagram for the '62 Thunderbird in our Technical Resource Library:

http://squarebirds.org/Diagrams-Schematics/1958-1966_Wiring_Diagrams/62Tbirdcomplete_wiring_front.jpg

Note that the CONSTANT VOLTAGE REGULATOR wiring goes two places:
To the FUEL GAUGE and the TEMP GAUGE.

Does your TEMP gauge work?

[fordraised]

I don't remember if the temp. gauge works SC. This is something that I will look in to.

[JohnG]

Your clock runs on 12V. You can remove it and test it on the bench with a spare battery. Two things it may well need are lubrication and cleaning of it's contact points.

If you get it going, let it run on the workbench for about week and monitor it's accuracy. Resetting the time causes the clock to be minutely sped up or slowed down based on what you did.

John

[YellowRose]

Tech help for my '62

There is information on repairing and cleaning your clock or having it quartzed as a number of us have, in the Technical Resource Library. The link is under my signature...

[fordraised]

Now that the master cylinder and brake cylinders have been replaced; what is the recommended brake fluid for this vehicle. I'm sure my mechaic knows but I would like peace of mind.

[simplyconnected]

You may get a few opinions on this one, but I always ask, 'what do the manufacturers use?'

The answer is DOT-3 because nothing works better, but it doesn't end there.

DOT-3 users should replace their fluid every three years on ALL their vehicles. It always goes in clear, then it changes colors with age. DOT-3 is hydroscopic and glycol based, meaning, it sucks up water faster than Scotch. This inhibits rust but it also has a saturation point. Keep it fresh by changing the old, watery, rusty, fluid out. The whole system only holds about a cup.

I hear complaints about DOT-3 removing paint. Yeah, but it also washes off with plain water because there is NO OIL in it. DOT-3 is as dangerous as antifreeze.

[fordraised]

Thanks for the suggestions, after closer examination my mechanic spotted cracks in the shoes so I'll be replacing them also. To bad, there is about 1/2 of the lining still left on the shoes. He also recommends that he installs DOT3 fluid. We dropped the gas tank for inspection and found a sad situation. The bottom of the tank was quite full of debris and the sending unit was completely rusted. I've seen the collars of sending units rusted but never the entire unit itself. I took the tank to the same guy that checked out the rad and he said that the top side of the inside of the tank was rusted and recommeded a replacement. Soooooooo.... a new tank a sending unit was ordered from Spectra Premium Industries and ready for installation.