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wanted: "cliff notes" on window overhaul

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  • Dakota Boy
    Super-Experienced
    • Jun 30 2009
    • 1561

    wanted: "cliff notes" on window overhaul

    (Doors and window frames will have all new weatherstripping, etc etc installed first.)

    Question is... when you start aligning all the side windows, which window do you get into position first? I know they all have to sort of line up together as a "team" in order for it to work; I just cant make up my mind which piece of glass is the "leader"....

    thanks
    http://www.tbirdregistry.com/viewdat...ryNumber=33517
  • partsetal
    Super-Experienced
    • Jun 4 2005
    • 853

    #2
    First you need to get the door gaps correct. Install the belt line weatherstrips (fuzzies). Reline all the window channels if needed. Then the vent frame has to be aligned to the windshield post, next is the door window and then the quarter window. It is a labor intensive process and involves many trial fits and adjustments.

    Comment

    • JohnG
      John
      • Jul 28 2003
      • 2341

      #3
      Can you guys provide the steps to remove the main, side window??

      I need to replace the outer "fuzzy" as the supporting metal rusted and fell apart.

      I am ok with removing the window crank and getting the door panel off - done that before. What do you do after that???

      john
      1958 Hardtop
      #8452 TBird Registry
      http://tbird.info/registry/DataSheet...r~equals~8452)

      photo: http://www.squarebirds.org/users/joh...d_June2009.jpg
      history:
      http://www.squarebirds.org/users/johng/OCC.htm

      Comment

      • YellowRose
        Super-Experienced


        • Jan 21 2008
        • 17231

        #4
        wanted: "cliff notes" on window overhaul

        Richard D. Hord recorded the procedures to go through when replacing our windows. You will find them on the temporary Technical Resource Library that I created on Fortune City. Clicking on the link below my signature element will take you there. I hope that will help you, but if not, send Richard a PM and I am sure he will be glad to help you, as will others who have done this before.

        Ray Clark - Squarebirds Administrator
        The Terminator..... VTCI #11178 ITC #6000 Yellow Mustang Registry (YMR) #12188
        Contact me via Private Message for my email address, or Call (Cell) 210-875-1411

        https://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm
        Faye's Ovarian Cancer Memorial Website.
        https://faye.rayclark.info/index.html

        Comment

        • JohnG
          John
          • Jul 28 2003
          • 2341

          #5
          hi Ray

          thanks! That gives me a much better picture of things.

          I also learned that there are lower stops which give me some hope for simply lowering the window an additional inch, which would give me room to replace the outer fuzzy and stainless trip. That's about all the room I need

          This move, if possibble, is also of value to people doing repaints. If one can remove the fuzzy and stainless trim on the outside of the window, then you can do a better job of painting and not end up with a ridge where the stainless trim is. This not only makes for cleaner appearance but also cuts down the long term chance of rust. (see other threads on repaint issues)

          John
          1958 Hardtop
          #8452 TBird Registry
          http://tbird.info/registry/DataSheet...r~equals~8452)

          photo: http://www.squarebirds.org/users/joh...d_June2009.jpg
          history:
          http://www.squarebirds.org/users/johng/OCC.htm

          Comment

          • Guest

            #6
            Hey Ray,
            THANKS!!!
            Richard D. Hord

            Comment

            • simplyconnected
              Administrator
              • May 26 2009
              • 8787

              #7
              Originally posted by JohnG
              ...This move, if possibble, is also of value to people doing repaints. If one can remove the fuzzy and stainless trim on the outside of the window, then you can do a better job of painting and not end up with a ridge where the stainless trim is...
              That's true, John. The more trim you take off, the better the paint job.

              What about the window channels that are worn down to nothing? Where the fuzzies are gone, and the glass scrapes, rattles, and leaks?

              That's when you unbolt that bottom stop, loosten the guides, and pull the glass out. Mac's sells fuzzies for the vent frame (the real backbone for your glass), and it is cheap. They usually come with a pack of brass rivets. Drill out the old, and 'set' the new channels in.

              I don't know a better way of restoring a vent frame and window channel. Take lots of pictures. Pull each piece off and mark it. After de-rusting frame-steel and polishing stainless, you have to stack all the pieces and rivet them together. You will be amazed when you're done. It all looks brand new. If your laminated glass is full of bubbles, you might want to replace it before spending a lot of time setting glass.

              I use a block of wood to hold the glass up as I adjust and put the X pieces in. - Dave
              Member, Sons of the American Revolution

              CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

              "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
              --Lee Iacocca

              From: Royal Oak, Michigan

              Comment

              • Dakota Boy
                Super-Experienced
                • Jun 30 2009
                • 1561

                #8
                my windows rattle something fierce. So much so, that I almost try to avoid the bumpier city streets.

                There is pretty much nothing left inside the window channels. Its all turned to dust.

                I will be replacing one vent window (cracked), driver's window (cracked), and passenger window (some kid with a Red Ryder BB gun must've met up with my car at some point in the past 50 years).
                http://www.tbirdregistry.com/viewdat...ryNumber=33517

                Comment

                • Dakota Boy
                  Super-Experienced
                  • Jun 30 2009
                  • 1561

                  #9
                  I've read a few more posts here and there, and have two more questions:

                  1. Do you have to first remove the roof rail weatherstrip in order remove the quarter windows?
                  Not sure why that would be the case, but I seem to recall reading that somewhere.

                  2. I have tinted glass on the sides now. How close does the new glass match the old original glass?
                  I really dont want to replace the glass in my quarter windows, since they are both good. Jeez, my parts list is at 800 bucks already; for this side window overhaul project I am mustering my courage for.
                  http://www.tbirdregistry.com/viewdat...ryNumber=33517

                  Comment

                  • Dakota Boy
                    Super-Experienced
                    • Jun 30 2009
                    • 1561

                    #10
                    How do you get the glass out of the frames? side windows and vent windows.

                    Does it help to heat it up in an oven at 170 degrees or so?

                    Jeez, I was just trying to get the bottom channel piece off one of the side windows, and it was REALLY stuck on there.

                    I've got all the guts out of the drivers door today. Seems pretty simple once you see all the parts you are dealing with; but yes, it is time-consuming. Oh well....it keeps me off the couch on Sunday afternoons.
                    Last edited by Dakota Boy; March 7, 2010, 07:13 PM.
                    http://www.tbirdregistry.com/viewdat...ryNumber=33517

                    Comment

                    • Guest

                      #11
                      Hey Greg,
                      I took a small block of wood and a hammer to remove stainless steel trim. You need to be extra careful on the corner, it is welded! Have someone hole the glass, put block of wood against edge of trim and tape with hammer. Work all the way around glass and break it loose a little at a time.
                      Richard D. Hord

                      Comment

                      • simplyconnected
                        Administrator
                        • May 26 2009
                        • 8787

                        #12
                        Originally posted by Dakota Boy
                        How do you get the glass out of the frames? side windows and vent windows...
                        I use a propane torch on the glass. Spread it across, close to the frame and the black stuff will start to bubble. When that happens, I put a rag around the frame and easily pull it off the glass. No muss, no fuss. Good luck.
                        Member, Sons of the American Revolution

                        CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

                        "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
                        --Lee Iacocca

                        From: Royal Oak, Michigan

                        Comment

                        • Dakota Boy
                          Super-Experienced
                          • Jun 30 2009
                          • 1561

                          #13
                          That's the ticket!
                          HEAT.
                          I just got a bad vibe yesterday tap tap tapping on that stuff at room temp. The rubber is so darn old, crusty, and hardened (same adjectives describe some of us...).

                          What/where do you get the stuff to re-line the channels that the window slides up and down in? The rearward channel inside the door is wider than the front channel.
                          http://www.tbirdregistry.com/viewdat...ryNumber=33517

                          Comment

                          • partsetal
                            Super-Experienced
                            • Jun 4 2005
                            • 853

                            #14
                            Channel lining

                            Greg,
                            I've got a moleskin like material that I glue to the rear door and quarter window channels to prevent the rattle and the chafing of the window frame. The rear of the vent frame takes a beaded channel, but can be relined. Contact me off line if you need more details.
                            Carl

                            Comment

                            • simplyconnected
                              Administrator
                              • May 26 2009
                              • 8787

                              #15
                              Originally posted by Dakota Boy
                              ...What/where do you get the stuff to re-line the channels that the window slides up and down in? The rearward channel inside the door is wider than the front channel.
                              Stainless-beaded window channel is readily available at a reasonable cost.
                              Macsautoparts.com is a good parts house in Lockport, NY (#B8S-6321538-PR).

                              Here's another good source. <--Click

                              You probably need beaded belt weatherstrips and glass run channel.
                              Last edited by simplyconnected; March 8, 2010, 02:16 PM.
                              Member, Sons of the American Revolution

                              CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

                              "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
                              --Lee Iacocca

                              From: Royal Oak, Michigan

                              Comment

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