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  #1  
Old 07-13-2013, 06:20 PM
Yellowbird Yellowbird is offline
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Default Detent Plate Installed

I installed my detent plate today in my '58.

Shifting still has some play and I notice that there is movement of the spring pin in the collar.

I was wondering if anyone had ever drilled the collar and shift lever to accomodate a larger spring pin? Would this solve the problem or am I better off getting a new lever, collar and spring pin?

Thanks.

Leonard
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  #2  
Old 07-13-2013, 09:26 PM
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YellowRose YellowRose is offline
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Default Detent Plate Installed

Hi Leonard, have you tried adjusting the neutral switch to see if you can take that play out of it. Have you ever replaced the shift tube selector arm down at the bottom of the steering column? Often times that is as much the culprit as anything else, after some 58 years of wear and tear on that piece. Mine was worn in the notched area and the entire area on the inside of the ring. It means having to take the whole steering column apart to do it, as I recall. I do not know the answer to your question, but hopefully someone does.
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Last edited by YellowRose : 07-14-2013 at 04:20 AM.
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  #3  
Old 07-14-2013, 02:34 AM
Tbird1044 Tbird1044 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yellowbird View Post
I installed my detent plate today in my '58.

Shifting still has some play and I notice that there is movement of the spring pin in the collar.

I was wondering if anyone had ever drilled the collar and shift lever to accomodate a larger spring pin? Would this solve the problem or am I better off getting a new lever, collar and spring pin?

Thanks.

Leonard
Leonard:
I am in the process of rebuilding my column completely. I'm being a little creative in the area of the spring pin. I do not like the design. I think the spring pin will be tighter in the shift lever which means the collar is going to take the wear. A shift lever is about $40. A new collar is over $100. I really do not see a problem with going to a 5/16" spring pin vs. the original 1/4". You would have to drill the collar and the shift lever to do this. What I did was go to Ace hardware and buy a 1/4" bronze bushing and drilled the collar oversize to fit the bushing. Then I bought a 1/4" shouldered sleeve with threaded end on opposite site. I plan on using that vs. the spring pin and figure it will outlast me.
As for the detent plate, I installed a new one, however the one that was in place did not look to bad on the edges. The shift lever however was pretty badly worn. Figured as long as I had everything apart, I would also replace the tube selector arm on the bottom. It had a little wear, but again was not to bad. Trying to tighten everything up as much as I can. The selector arm was on back order, so I am still waiting for that and then I can do final assembly. We'll see how it all works out for me.
I also replaced the upper bearing and split sleeve. Getting the old bearing out was easy, however getting the new bearing back in was quite a challenge. Finally got it by using the old bearing to press the new one in place.
I will try to include a few pics of what I am doing with my collar to give you a better idea. All parts came from Ace Hardware. ;-)
Nyles
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Old Parts (1).jpg (296.8 KB, 81 views)
File Type: jpg Spring Pin replacement.jpg (423.4 KB, 81 views)
File Type: jpg Collar with bushings.jpg (297.6 KB, 81 views)
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  #4  
Old 07-14-2013, 10:46 AM
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I changed my Detent plate a few years back, and replaced the shift tube selector arm as well. It all got alot better, but not perfect.
However, I recall that I somewhere wrote something about a guy on another forum, who didnīt beleve in Alexanders thought about the detent plate, but argued that the problem was somewhere in the steering collumn. He didnīt agree at all with "this forum", so I guess I must have digged it up somewhere else. It was something about welding and filing to get something tight that have been worn. I even saw pictures of this article, but I just canīt find it anywhere anymore. And I have spend quite a lot of time to try to find it again. My theory is that it all have to be fixed in order to be cured. Does anyone else have a clue about what Iīm talking about? And where to find that article again?
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  #5  
Old 07-14-2013, 01:03 PM
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Ian M Greer Ian M Greer is offline
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Anders , the only thing that comes to mined is he was probably to the conclusion that just rewelding the selector arm and reshaping it with a file was all that was needed . From previous photos and articles I've seen in the past , I would conclude the only safe way is to replace both of these components as well as the bearings and bushings . Your not talking a fortune for peace of mined and you have it all apart anyway . Ian (REMEMBER NOT ALL BIRDS FLY SOUTH)
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Old 07-14-2013, 02:56 PM
Tbird1044 Tbird1044 is offline
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I agree that it was probably the shift selector arm that they were welding and repairing. This is a very common spot for the shift selector to become sloppy. The shift arm has only recently been available in a reproduction.
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  #7  
Old 07-14-2013, 06:24 PM
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partsetal partsetal is offline
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Anders,
I believe that article referred to the shift tube which transfers motion from the shift lever and collar to the shift selector. These also wear at the point where they engage the above, and can be repaired by building up with weld and filing to fit. Here are photos of the top and bottom of the tube showing the wear points.
Carl
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File Type: jpg shift tube.JPG (70.1 KB, 96 views)
File Type: jpg shift tube 2.JPG (76.2 KB, 95 views)
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  #8  
Old 07-15-2013, 01:24 PM
Yellowbird Yellowbird is offline
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Default Detent Plate

Thanks everyone for your repsonses.

I'll probably try the bronze bushing method. Can the shift tube selector arm be tested for play by holding it while someone moves the selector lever?

Don't want to tear down the column unless I have to.

Thank you again for the help!

Leonard
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  #9  
Old 07-15-2013, 04:51 PM
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Thanks all. And sorry for hijacking the thread. I also found a whole series of films on You Tube on this topic. How about that http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LXCj1sRgSqM
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  #10  
Old 07-15-2013, 05:21 PM
Tbird1044 Tbird1044 is offline
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Default Detent Plate

Leonard:
If you do use the bronze bushings to repair the shift collar I would not recommend trying to install the roll/spring pins to hold the shift arm. There is not a lot of metal holding the bushing and I think installing the pin would push the bushing out. That is why I am using the 1/4" pin with collars on the end. I'll attach some pics so you can see how the shift arm attaches to the tube.
Nyles
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_2835.JPG (38.6 KB, 77 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_2836.JPG (34.5 KB, 77 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_2837.JPG (27.9 KB, 76 views)
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