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  #11  
Old 07-16-2013, 12:44 PM
Yellowbird Yellowbird is offline
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Default Detent Plate

Thanks for the information Nyles.

I had questioned theuse of the spring pin after boring the hole to a larger diameter.

Leonard
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  #12  
Old 07-21-2013, 11:17 PM
cuul59 cuul59 is offline
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Default Shift Collar

I tried to drill and salvage my shift collar but ended up replacing it. My recommendation is to replace it and save a lot of grief. Be aware that you will need to paint it as I beleive it comes in just one color (can't remember what it is). Ultimately you would be smart to replace the shift lever as others have suggested, but requires a complete disassembly of the steering column. Good luck.

Neil
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  #13  
Old 07-22-2013, 02:16 AM
Tbird1044 Tbird1044 is offline
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Default Replacing Detent Plate

Quote:
Originally Posted by cuul59 View Post
I tried to drill and salvage my shift collar but ended up replacing it. My recommendation is to replace it and save a lot of grief. Be aware that you will need to paint it as I beleive it comes in just one color (can't remember what it is). Ultimately you would be smart to replace the shift lever as others have suggested, but requires a complete disassembly of the steering column. Good luck.

Neil
Well, I completed my shift column O/H after taking it back apart about 4 times. Just wasn't happy with certain things. I replaced the shift link arm, upper bearing and sleeve, detent plate and shift lever. I did not replace the shift collar.
Here are some things that I learned:
1. If you replace the upper bearing, it is not to difficult to get the old one out, but installing the new one without damaging it was difficult. A proper sized bearing driver would be nice. I ended up using the old bearing to press the new one in place.
2. The first time I put the column together, I was pretty happy with everything but the new shift lever seemed to have a lot of play in the direction perpendicular to the shaft tube. BTW, the new shift arm lever was to tight on the shaft and needed to be opened so the shift tube would slide through it.
3. Disassembled and changed the position of the lower shift arm spring so it would push against the shift arm lever to to remove the perpendicular play. That worked like a champ, except for the spring riding on the raised guide piece which caused the shift tube to hang up and not let the shift lever to release.
4. Disassembled again and looked everything over to weigh my options. I ended up making a .020" shim and place it below the bottom spring retainer. This keeps the retainer tight against the shift arm lever and removed any perpendicular play. Things on the bottom end are really nice and tight now and the shift tube releases nicely.
5. I had already installed 1/4" bushings for the guide pin in the shift collar so the shift arm was nice and tight and worked freely. I was really happy with that. What I didn't realize is that the shift collar has a slotted fitting in it, much like the lower shift arm only it is a much longer slot. I do have play in the collar at this point and it gives me a little looseness but the shift indicator is aligned nicely and gear selections are right on. Also, the safety neutral switch/back up light switch is right on and works great.
6. If you have the column removed, I installed and adjusted the safety neutral switch on the bench and when I installed the column it all worked properly. Saved some crawling around under the dash and trying to adjust it.

Well, I'm on to my next step which is reinstalling the dash. Instrument cluster is ready to go in and I checked all the wiring and switches etc. to make sure everything is working properly before the dash goes in.
Here's hoping.
Nyles
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