Headlight switch again (interesting article revisited)

[JohnG]

I am becoming more convinced the need for light is why Ford went from black instrument faces in '58 to white ones in '59 and '60.

[Guest]

I need to thank a few people here. JohnG for the right up and insight into the lightswitch, Dave for the pic of the rheostat and everyone else that added to the thread.

I was waiting to bid on the switch on Ebay till near the end. In the mean time arfter reading all the posts I pulled the switch out to get a good look at things. Someone had taken the rheostat out at one time and put it back in wrong. Kinda dumb on his part because the larger index tab on the metal retainer was not in the larger slot on the rheostat. There is a dome light switch in there but it wasnt working because the rheostat was in the wrong position but it is working fine now. After cleaning everything and putting back together the dash light still did not work so I did the JohnG trick, I dont need to and never have dimmed the dash lights in any car. While I was in there I checked all the lights and replaced the bad ones. Also when I had the clock out I opened it up anc cleaned the points, my clock would stop every now and then and just a light tap would get it going again. It is now running fine and keeping good time.
Now all I need is a new headlight nob/shaft because the nob is stripped out. Thanks alot everyone.

There is a new lightswitch on ebay with about 12 hours left. It ends 6-15 at about at 5:52 am pacific time. there has been one bid on it and it is at $19.00. I am satisfied with the fix so I am not going to bid on it.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/58-59...1%7C240%3A1318

Thanks again.... PS. I checked all the parts suppliers I could find and they all list one part number for all three years. I called Tbird HQ Saterday morning and talked to the parts guy and he said they list only one number. On one web site they did list a part number of B9AF-11654-A for all three years. The switch on ebay says it replaces that number. That being said, My switch does only have one fuse and I think it is the original. The one on ebay has two fuses.

[JohnG]

hi Victor
thanks for the kind words! Glad to have been of some help.

On the Ebay switch I believe the 9 in the first part means it is a 1959 part number and thus represents some change from the 1958 switch; the guess would be the second fuse. Beyond that they are in all likelihood functionally identical. I can't remember what the second fuse guards.

I have a TBird Sanctuary catalogue from 2004. They wanted a mere $74 back then for a switch...

Your clock has any number of brass bushings which probably have seen no lubricant since they left Ford (or some subcontractor) half a century ago. Sewing machine grade oil would help them along.

John

[Guest]

My 2008 sanctuary cat. lists the switch at $103.36
The 2008-2009 Thunderbird HQ cat has it at $69.95...... I just looked at their website $78.95
The sanctuary's switch must have gold plated contacts or something.

When I had the clock open I did put a little light oil on most of the little shaft ends using a toothpick as an applicator. Its just real nice to have the clock and all the lights working. Even though the radio doesnt work the light now does, and the lights at the heat control. I was out there a bit ago and was amazed that even the ashtray light was working. Made my day!!

[JohnG]

there is often a headlight switch on Ebay for $49. I gulped when I saw the catalogues one for $74...

On your radio, some basic facts you may or may not know or care about:

* the amplifier is separate and under the dash over near
the driver's left knee. A flat cable connects it to the radio

* the radio only has 4 tubes and they are not very expensive

*if the radio or amp turn out to be dead, it is far cheaper to find replacements on Ebay than to get them fixed. You just have to wait for the guy selling them who is willing to test it (many won't bother. Many don't know the amp is separate)

john

[simplyconnected]

I have two projects going. While in the midst of redoing a '55 Customline, a '59 Galaxie came up last Jan. I finally got to the Galaxie. Brake and headlights worked, but NOTHING else.

First place I stopped was the headlight switch. Pulled the stick out, and used my bezel tool to drop the switch. Both fuses were missing on the end. Put the larger one in, and my turn signals came alive and so did my dash lights. Then I found out, the tiny fuse is fed by the larger fuse.

The dimmer typically didn't work, so I pulled the porcelain disk out and cleaned it. Just like my spare, the brass was caked-green with corrosion. Then I ran my meter across the ni-chrome wire. It was not broken.

I scraped those wiper arms on the switch (one for the rheostat, the other for the dome light) and put it back together. The dash lights dim, although it isn't a smooth transition I can choose my brightness pretty acurately.

Backup lights only work with parking/headlights. That took me ten minutes to figure out. I think I will use the parking light wire to install a trunk light since the wire is already in the trunk.

After finishing the electrical essentials, I changed rocker shafts and plugged the copper drain so the rocker arms are now pressurized. One rocker was so dry, the pushrod cup was rusty! No wonder it was so loose and loud.

Next comes power disk brakes, tomorrow afternoon. I will be soooo glad to stop this boat from pulling to the left all the time, and having a dual M/C will ease my mind a lot.

[JohnG]

How did you remove the porcelain disk?? Never tried.

What was the brass that was caked green?? The wiper that contacts the ni-chrome wire?

I looked at my notes and they indicate the second fuse may be for the brake lights. If your car is still apart (headlight switch accessible) can you verify this?? The other fuse is for the dome lights I believe. Mine is a '58 so only one fuse.

john

[simplyconnected]

How did you remove the porcelain disk?? Never tried.

What was the brass that was caked green?? The wiper that contacts the ni-chrome wire?

I looked at my notes and they indicate the second fuse may be for the brake lights.

To remove the porcelain rheostat, (the stick should already be out) put a small flat-blade screwdriver under the spring and gently lift it over the sheet metal that traps it. Once the spring is over that projection the whole thing slides straight up and out. There are four parts; the spring, a nylon spring center, a stamped piece that fits into the porcelain (I'll call it a retainer), and the porcelain disk. They all come out together. Assembly is easier than removal.

Chewrocks said his 'retainer' was assembled wrong and that's why his didn't work, "Someone had taken the rheostat out at one time and put it back in wrong. Kinda dumb on his part because the larger index tab on the metal retainer was not in the larger slot on the rheostat." It makes better sense when you look at it.

The brass that was caked was at the beginning-end of the ni-chrome wire, a brass sleeve the wire goes into (see photo from previous post). The Ni-Chrome looked shiny and new with NO wear marks. I scraped ALL contact surfaces down to shiny metal. A few of them were 'iffy'.

I'm going to verify this, but I believe the stop lights are on their own separate fuse (away from the headlight sw). I'm pretty sure the brake lights worked before I started working on this car while the headlight sw had NO fuses in either holder.

I do know, the larger fuse feeds the smaller fuse, and once I put the large fuse in my turn signals worked. That small fuse is really small. I figured it was for the clock or something really low-amperage. The small fuse is so short, there's no way to see anything inside; the ends cover all but an eighth inch of glass. I don't see any point in having two fuse holders on the headlight sw. Hope this helps.
- Dave

[JohnG]

I think your fuse setup may be different than the one on the TBirds. I have a 1960 switch stashed away (with two fuses) and will check. I know the clocks have their own, in-line , fuse. Having two in series is kinda illogical...

I was reluctant to take the porcelan out as it was always someone else's car and I did not want to make matters worse; just get them dash lights. I had this idea the assembly was rivetted in so I am grateful for your clarifying that.

Brass and copper contacts are problematic in general as they like to oxidize. Copper can look just fine but have a "patina" on it that prevents conduction.

Good work!

john

[simplyconnected]

Thanks, John. Oh, I just remembered another thing... I think the small fuse is switched by the parking/headlights. The larger fuse is not switched. Maybe the small fuse is for optional backup lights.

That basic switch design has been used in a host of Ford (& MEL) cars and trucks. One fuse, two fuses, NO fuse,... it doesn't matter. They added a dome light feature to elliminate the switch at the ceiling lampholder (like my '55 has). I bet the rheostat disk fits them all for dash dimming.

Being an electrician, I believe in fuses to protect the wire. I've never seen one fail yet. But, I like to see fuses mounted in a centrally located panel instead of hunting all over for inline holders or Fusible Links (those are rediculous). BTW, I have had ATC fuses melt (the plastic bubbled and melted); glass is MUCH better but takes more space.

As you can tell, I am not a Purest (or Puritan, LOL). I appreciate time-tested improved methods and can easily understand why Ford never went back to their old ways (like 6-volt positive gnd my '55 Customline came with).

- Dave

[JohnG]

When I got my '58 while it ran, almost nothing electrical worked - dash, gauges, horn.

"OK... must be some fuses blown... get down to look for the fuse panel." And looked... and looked... and realized there was none. Got out the Shop Manual and confirmed the bad news... Got upside down under the steering wheel and put a flashlight in my mouth and started hunting. Fortunately my wiring was unmolested.

The bad news was then that all the fuses were fine and the problems (like the dash lights) required more effort to solve.

But I cursed the guy who made the decision to have cartridge fuses hidden under the dash...I can tell you that!

Basically the electrical system is pretty good. You just have to accept it's realities. The only weak item I run into is the little right angle boots that go on to things like the starter solenoid. They tend to break off. As I solder and have
Liquid Rubber I can repair them.