Turn indicators freezing

[tbirdmike63]

I had my alternator tested at orielys, they tested it on the car, with that fancy device they have, in your opinion is that device reliable, is it better to get the alternator tested off the car?

[jopizz]

I've never had one tested on the car before so I can't say. I would recheck your belt tension. I assume it's a new belt. You shouldn't have any more than 1/2" deflection if you push down midway between the longest span.

John

[tbirdmike63]

Also, I bought a braided ground strap and attached it from the negative post to the frame connection. I cannot find the ground wire that goes to the blower motor cover, I don't see any ground wire coming off the back of the motor going to the firewall. Could i be missing a body ground?

[tbirdmike63]

No, it's not a new belt, and I am only getting 1/2 inch deflection, in order to get that belt off I have to remove 2 other belts, the belt looks to be ok, maybe I will try to make it tighter, get it down to 1/4 inch deflection.

[jopizz]

If you don't see it then it's not there and it should be. Going from the battery negative post to the body does the same thing. As I said before the more grounds the better.

John

[tbirdmike63]

Can I use the inner fender well near the battery as a body ground?

[Joe Johnston]

If this part is bolted to the body "NO" because the bolts could have corroded and would make a poor connection. If this part is welded, probably OK, but to the firewall would be better IMO.

[scumdog]

No, it's not a new belt, and I am only getting 1/2 inch deflection, in order to get that belt off I have to remove 2 other belts, the belt looks to be ok, maybe I will try to make it tighter, get it down to 1/4 inch deflection.

Personally I would stick with the 1/2" deflection unless it's a really short belt.

A 1/4" deflection on a long belt would mean the belt would have to be very tight and potentially be putting quite a strain on the bearings that the pulleys are attached to.

[simplyconnected]

All these guys are saying the same thing: Install good grounds. Your car body is fifty years old. Every electrical component is depending on spot welds, from the tail light housings all the way to the battery.

There have been times when I could not find a ground wire under the dash because 'extra wires' simply aren't supplied. So, I have used an UNbroken stranded copper ground wire that starts at the battery and it stretches all the way to the tail lights. Along the way I tap off for important areas like the dash and electric windows, electric seats, convertible top motor, trunk lid, fuel tank, tail light housings AND left provisions for trailer hookup.

Modern cars use a lot of plastic so all the wire harnesses include ground wires. If you notice, none of the modern cars ever have brake lights that dance back and forth at a stop light. Classic cars do because lamp power cannot find a path back to the battery through the car body.

If your car body has poor grounds, current will take the path of least resistance back to the battery. That could include your powertrain bearings. Arcing bearings will pit and fail very early.

Want to ground to the body at the battery? Do it. Add more grounds as well. Ever see a car with one or more dim headlights? Yep, poor grounds. Grounds are so easy to fix and when done properly, all of a sudden motors start running faster, like power windows, seats, heater, etc. - Dave

[jopizz]

the belt looks to be ok, maybe I will try to make it tighter, get it down to 1/4 inch deflection.

Don't go by looks when it comes to a belt. If you don't know the age of it replace it. Once it becomes glazed or cracked it's worthless. Loosening the compressor and power steering pump isn't that difficult. Belts are cheap. Replace all three at the same time.

John

[tbirdmike63]

I think I might have to put on new belts. I ran a ground wire from the battery all the way back to the trunk to the ground for the rear turn signal unit, still no change, then I got to the underside of the fenders and cleaned off the grounds to the turn signal indicators. the left one worked good, but the right one still froze up when the lights were turned on while the car was in gear. I turned my idle up real high and still no effect on the turn indicator. Then I ran a ground wire from the battery to the grounding point on the right turn indicator, still no change, I can't help but think the alternator is just not putting out enough power, maybe I should get a 70 amp alternator, its not too much power to cause any problems (i hope), but being 25 amps more then the stock alternator it might make a real difference....any thoughts?