Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

PS Control Valve Ball Stud Removal

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • dgs
    Super-Experienced
    • Feb 13 2003
    • 962

    PS Control Valve Ball Stud Removal

    I need to remove the PS control valve and I'm having a bear of a time getting the control valve ball stud out of the sector shaft arm. I've removed the cotter pin and castle nut and I've been banging away at the stud to no avail. I've even had a go at it with a pickle fork, but not too hard because I don't want to break anything important (messing up the stud and boot are fine, I'm replacing them).
    DGS (aka salguod)
    1960 Convertible - Raven Black, Red leather
    www.salguod.net
  • Alexander
    Webmaster
    • Oct 30 2002
    • 3321

    #2
    I leave the castle nut on part way to protect the threads of the stud. Penetrating oil and patient soft tapping should eventually loosen it. I pickle fork and hard banging will damage the valve. T-Bird vendors are now refusing to take in cores that are damaged in this way.
    Alexander
    1959 Hard Top
    1960 Golde Top
    sigpic

    Comment

    • dgs
      Super-Experienced
      • Feb 13 2003
      • 962

      #3
      Originally posted by Alexander
      I leave the castle nut on part way to protect the threads of the stud. Penetrating oil and patient soft tapping should eventually loosen it. I pickle fork and hard banging will damage the valve. T-Bird vendors are now refusing to take in cores that are damaged in this way.
      Too late for the threads, unfortunately, I've buggered them up pretty good. Can't get the nut back on. I'm replacing the stud, so I'm not worried about the threads, but I do need to be able to get it out!

      How do I get penetrating oil in there since I can't get access to the top? Spraying the bottom isn't likely to help, is it?

      Banging on the stud will damage the control valve? I understand that banging on the valve would, but the studs off to the side.

      I hope I haven't already made a mess of it.
      DGS (aka salguod)
      1960 Convertible - Raven Black, Red leather
      www.salguod.net

      Comment

      • Alexander
        Webmaster
        • Oct 30 2002
        • 3321

        #4
        You need to get the penetrating oil at the joint of the of the control valve stud and the steering linkage.

        I know these control valves are a pain to get out after 40 plus years. Soak and tap. Soak overnight ifneedbe. Tap, tap, tap and suddenly it just breaks loose.

        Okay, it sounds like you ruined the ball stud at the thread end. That's okay. The ball inside should be okay along with the cylinder. Just don't use a pickle fork - it will damage the valve.
        Alexander
        1959 Hard Top
        1960 Golde Top
        sigpic

        Comment

        • bcomo
          Super-Experienced
          • Sep 23 2005
          • 1223

          #5
          Alexander & Doug:

          Do you think that a Gear Puller would do it? The one in mind is like Ice Tongs with a threaded stud in the middle. Auto Zone may have one in their Loaner Tool.
          Bart
          1960 Hard Top/430
          Thunderbird Registry Number 1231

          Comment

          • dgs
            Super-Experienced
            • Feb 13 2003
            • 962

            #6
            I spent the day in the garage and for most of the after noon, between other tasks, I'd go over to the ball stud and spray it and tap it for a while. Nothin so far.

            The puller idea isn't a bad one, but then again I was going at it with a pickle fork. I've got an unused spring compressor (and that pickle fork) to return to them, maybe I'll trade for a gear puller.

            What say you folks?
            DGS (aka salguod)
            1960 Convertible - Raven Black, Red leather
            www.salguod.net

            Comment

            Working...
            😀
            🥰
            🤢
            😎
            😡
            👍
            👎