Wire from light-switch to dimmer?

[scumdog]

Update

OK, now the days are longer at at times warmer I've got back into this project.

I like things to not look they've been messed around with in the engine bay so I mounted the relay behind the windscreen-washer bag out of sight.

I used a thin section of aluminium to mount the relay, the plate is held in place by the same screws that are holding the washer-bag beacket.

Now another questions for you brain-boxes out there:

I have a wire of reasonable diameter that runs from the side of the starter relay across to the drivers side under the top radiator support/cowl.

It supplies power to the relays that give 12V to the coil and horn.

Is it a Good Idea to tap into this wire for power to my headlight relay?

Because:
(a) It's handy, only 6" from relay.
(b) It means if they ignition key is turned to 'off' the headlights are too - can't walk off and leave the lights on by mistake!

Thoughts?
Reasons maybe NOT to do this?

[redstangbob]

Are you talking about the green/red wire going to the voltage regulator? If so, you're defeating your purpose IMO. Why not run a new FUSED black wire from the start relay hot lug to power the new relay(s). It won't look too out of place. Good luck, Bob C

[scumdog]

Are you talking about the green/red wire going to the voltage regulator? If so, you're defeating your purpose IMO. Why not run a new FUSED black wire from the start relay hot lug to power the new relay(s). It won't look too out of place. Good luck, Bob C

Thanks redstangob, however the wire I thought of using is the one I already have that comes from the 'hot lug' you mentioned.
And the relay which is kinda like a two-in-one relay for high & low beam has a fuse for each circuit built-in.

[scumdog]

OKAY!
Done and dusted - fitted the relay, did all the wiring and made on loom and at all works! woo-hoo!
AND you can't tell it's all there unless you look carefully.

Took heaps of pics and will post them as soon as the lovely Mrs Scumdogg shows me how - I'll also post details in case anybody else wants to do the same.

NOW to get the CVT out and replace it - I need 'Instructions for Dummies" type info on how to get the CVT out - I can see the sucker, get my hand on it but not able to detach it.

I have taken off the 'wood'-grain panel that runs from the steering column to the console and I have taken out the panel that mounts the clock/wiper switch etc.

But it looks like I might have to take out the speedometer housing - how do I do THAT???

[scumdog]

Well!
THAT was a waste of time - all that torture and my guages STILL read wrong - in fact it looks like they peg-out even quicker than before!

Except the fuel guage which still seems to be asleep for the first 10 miles or so...

Any ideas why they behave this way?

A faulty brand-new CVT?

OR?

[simplyconnected]

I'm sure you used your volt meter to measure the regulator's output before you started... What voltage did you read?

[scumdog]

I'm sure you used your volt meter to measure the regulator's output before you started... What voltage did you read?

Uh-oh Dave, I goofed and never even thought about the multimeter - I did that bad thing and 'assumed' th eold CVT was bad...dang!

(looks like there's going to be some unscrewing of self-tappers again..)

[simplyconnected]

That Multimeter can save you lots of unnecessary pain and time.

• Use the DC scale for measuring voltage on live wires.
• Use the OHM scale to measure resistance on dead wires or car body. <--This will indicate if your grounds are good (like on your fuel tank). Lower numbers (resistance) mean a better ground.

[scumdog]

That Multimeter can save you lots of unnecessary pain and time.

• Use the DC scale for measuring voltage on live wires.
• Use the OHM scale to measure resistance on dead wires or car body. <--This will indicate if your grounds are good (like on your fuel tank). Lower numbers (resistance) mean a better ground.

So...one wire going into CVT would be 12V and the other SHOULD be???

[simplyconnected]

The old regulators used contacts that opened and closed, giving an AVERAGE of six volts. Your meter will see it as 12-volts, then zero, then 12-volts, etc.

The newer solid state regulators output a real six volts DC.

The regulator's case needs a good electrical connection to the body.

[redstangbob]

Is this a replacement CVR? Is it an original type or a solid state type? The original types sold by the vendors are Chinese JUNK! I say that after much experience. There's a few ways to go solid state, and that's the only way to go. Google it, you'll find the answer. Good luck, Bob C