Simple Performance Upgrades?

[opaque]

Hi guys I have recently purchased a factory 430 '59 Bird but some time in its life it was downgraded to a 352. I do like to feel a bit of oomph when I put the pedal down but not after heaps more HP, what would you Squarebird experts suggest I should do that would give me a bit more go that's simple and easy?

Thanks, Vinny

[YellowRose]

Simple Performance Upgrades?

Hi Vinny!

I am not the expert on this, but we have plenty of great techies who can pin point in on what you might want to consider. One of the things I can think of is going to electronic ignition, a Pertronix system, or something like that. Proper carb and vacuum adjustments. New, really good spark plug wires. Check your distributor cap for wear and replace it and the points if they are worn. Proper timing.. Check and refurbish your grounds from the battery, the starter ground, etc... Those are a few things that come to my mind, such as it is!

[opaque]

Hey YR thanks for that, those things are definitely on my to-do list when it gets here, but I'm talking about what like heads strangle out some more power out of the 352, what would be a nice carb that suits it, etc

Thanks, Vinny!

[simplyconnected]

Vinny, do you want stump-pulling power? You're right, it's locked up inside that 352.

Download a free degree wheel off the net, then bust out the inside of an old spark plug and weld-in a 1/2" round piece of steel, sticking out about an inch and a half (1-1/2"). Degree your crank by hand. If you need instructions, I can help or you can find it all over the net.

Buy a "TRUE ROLLER" timing chain set for an FE engine. When you install it, advance the cam by four degrees. This will bring your stock cam's torque curve a little more towards low to mid range. You will feel a difference immediately.

If you want even more torque, spend a couple hundred bucks and get a lower rear end gear, like a 3.90:1. This is the cheapest way to unleash lots of torque AND it lightens the load on your trans, driveshaft, and U-joints, because your torque will be spread out over more driveshaft turns. If this ratio is too radical, do a 3.77:1. You can sit down, do the math, and see the huge difference in rear wheel torque using different gears. They all cost the same money, just choose one that suits your driving needs. You may need a different speedometer gear. They are plastic and very available. It takes ten minutes to change one. - Dave

[Dakota Boy]

throw a K&N "X-Stream" air filter on top of the carb so it can breathe

[Gold Bird]

My bird is pretty slow as well, the 3:10 rear gear has to be a big part of it. That 352 is a good engine but I am sure it has way more potential!

[Guest]

More power ...

Dave makes a good point about degreeing your cam. How many miles on your 352? If your going to replace the timing set you might want to upgrade to a better cam as your half way there work wise. I have a 268H (mild RV style cam, would make a very noticeable difference in performance over stock) with lifters that just have break in only time on them. Lifters are packaged and marked in the order they were removed. $100 + shipping if your interested. Another cheap upgrade would be having your dist. recurved and up your initial timing and limit you mechanical advance to 36-38 deg. all in by 3k rpm. Headers will also help significantly especially if your upgrading the cam. If you change your gearing you will definitely see an increase in performance, but be aware you will also see a drop in mpg and higher rpm range at cruising speeds which means increased engine wear and higher noise levels inside. If you decide to change the gearing I wouldn't go numerically higher than 3:50. If at some point you consider rebuilding your engine installing a 390 rotating assembly will make a big difference for not many dollars. My biggest problem is knowing when to stop. Mike

[Guest]

Hey Dave,
Isn't the 352 the same block as the 390, 406 and the 427?
Richard D. Hord

[Guest]

The short answer ...

externally yes. The 427, 428, 406 blocks had thicker cylinder cores. You can't bore a 352,360,390 block much beyond .040 (which only takes you out to 397 with a 390 crank) without getting too thin. There are a few exceptions where thick cores were used in the smaller bore blocks due to foundry expedience, but not many. Mike

[opaque]

awesome Dave thanks for the info, I will have a play with the engine once the car arrives but it does look like I will follow your advice. Thanks for the heads up!

Vinny

[protourbird]

Before you do anything check the engine thoroughly as Simply Connected said it probably will need a new timing chain unless it's been changed but first thing do a compression check. If this is an original 352 odds are that it will need at least a valve job and may just need a bore clean up and a re-ring. Make sure hardened valve seats are installed to live with unleaded fuel as well. As for making it larger the 352 is not far from its max but sourcing a good 390 should not be difficult. You will also want to make sure the trans will hold the renewed horsepower. Also look at changing the intake for an Edelbrock Performer, or similar, and matching cam then top it off with a 650 Edelbrock carburetor. As for the Pertronix conversion, converting to electronic spark adds reliability but make sure the current distributor shaft and housing are not worn or spark timing will suffer. MSD makes a "Ready to run" distributor that drops in and hooks right up. This will have all new internals. Of course new coil and wires need to go with it. You can get as much power as your budget will allow. We all want simple but as the engines age we need to balance simple with necessity.

[opaque]

The PO said the engine had a valve job in '94, do you think that would be ok still? it wasnt driven much.

I think I'll start of with a new timing chain, a petronix conversion and maybe a lower rear end gear. Where would be the best place to shop for these things online (im overseas)? Some links would be awesome thanks!

Vinny

[simplyconnected]

I agree with Protobird, do a compression check first. Write all the numbers down; #1 through #8. A comparison of these numbers will tell you lots. If the spread is too wide, the engine will never be smooth. If the pressures are low, you are losing compression somewhere.

The PO said the engine had a valve job in '94, do you think that would be ok still? it wasnt driven much...

Vinny, let me get this straight... It's an 'unknown' engine that had a valve job SIXTEEN years ago, but it 'wasn't driven much'. It probably got a valve job through dire necessity.

Pull a head off and look. If the cylinders are smooth and shiny, with a 'bell-shaped' wear pattern at the top, or the ridge is profound, that's a sure sign of an old tired engine.

On the other hand, if you can see crosshatch in the bores, and they measure 'straight', you might be ok.

The cheapest way to overhaul an engine is to do it all at once. That way you don't need to buy mulitple gaskets and you won't have to take it apart over and over.

If time is on your side, only get parts on sale. You will save a bundle. Here's a timing chain set on eBay. Shop around for a good engine machine shop. Some are starving and need work. Now is the time to shop.

[opaque]

That's a great point, first thing I'll do when it gets here is to go through the engine properly. Thing is I'm over here in Australia and the car's about to head over here, parts for these engines aren't cheap down under.

The PO said he'll happily chuck any parts I buy and get sent to him in the trunk so I thought I'll make a shopping list and get all the necessary bits at once.

With that in mind and with my initial question about getting a teeny bit more oomph from the car what would you suggest my shopping list should consist of.

Really appreciate Dave! Thanks

[opaque]

Oh and THIS is the car I bought, I just realized it was advertised here too.