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**Tbird1044** · August 9, 2014, 12:47 PM

Not sure about the oil, but I think any good brand of oil would be okay. For summer driving, I would probably use a straight 30 wt. oil. I remember some of the old timers wanted an oil with a certain additive, but I don't remember what it was or where you could even find it today.
As for the antifreeze, the original green Prestone is what I have been using. The newer antifreeze blends have additives to protect all the aluminum parts on an engine system. Not a big concern with our older Birds.
Nyles

**YellowRose** · August 9, 2014, 04:33 PM

Oil & Coolant type

I am making the assumption that you meant you have a 352ci engine in your Tbird, not a 353. You might want to look at this information from the FE Engine Forum. It should help answer your questions.

http://www.squarebirds.org/vbulletin...ad.php?t=17372

**Dakota Boy** · August 10, 2014, 09:02 PM

Brad Penn makes a good oil for old cars

**cubbear** · August 11, 2014, 08:57 AM

oil

I run 15-40 diesel oil in all my old cars

**Yadkin** · August 11, 2014, 09:07 AM

Originally posted by Dan.loeb

Going to be changing fluids in the car for the first time in 5 years. Car had been sitting in previous owners garage.

What type of oil is everyone running and what type of antifreeze should I run it it. It has the 353 motor in it.

Take my advice and drain the gas tank, remove it from the car and have it professionally cleaned. Then back-feed the fuel line with brake-clean and blow it out with compressed air. Old gas turns to varnish which will destroy the engine. I learned that the hard way

**simplyconnected** · August 11, 2014, 06:48 PM

I bought a case of brake clean when it went on sale because that's how I usually buy things. Soon after, I rebuilt an Autolite 4100. This carburetor was original 1958 and very dirty. Lo and behold I was OUT of carb cleaner, so I figured I could use brake clean, right?

That stuff was useless in a carburetor. It didn't break down varnish or clean the tiny passages at all. So I ran up to my local store and got a can of real carb cleaner. What a difference!

The carburetor cleaner instantly did exactly what it advertised, melting varnish and dislodging sediment so why was I surprised? I'm not a chemist but I figured they both had the same general makeup. Boy, was I wrong.

My lesson learned was, if you want old gasoline 'junk' removed, buy a name brand carburetor cleaner. Nothing else works.
Comments? - Dave

**Joe Johnston** · August 11, 2014, 07:02 PM

Carb cleaner also makes a good starting fluid too. I always give my old generator a good squirt before trying to start it after sitting several months.

**Yadkin** · August 11, 2014, 07:38 PM

I thought brake clean dissolved everything, and killed hornets in the air, and spiders too!

**del** · August 12, 2014, 05:50 PM

Hi Dan - Welcome! Based on suggestions from the experts here and some personal trial and error, I have settled on diesel oil as well - I use Rotella "T" 15W40. I usually add about 1/2 Qt of Rislone Zinc supplement/ZDDP to the mix - - if I remember ;-). I also use the Rislone if I need to top off, which is rare. I have an original 1960 352 with about 62K miles. I've found this gives me the most peace of mind and best/quietest running engine.

As far as antifreeze goes I use a name brand premix. Other than than I'm not particular. As far as I know I have an original radiator and heater core and haven't had any issues. The first couple of years I changed the antifreeze at least 3-4 times for a variety of reasons...

. It got a little cleaner each time which was a good thing.

Speaking of fluids, is it my imagination or has the price of lead additive taken a big jump this year? As far as gasoline is concerned, I use the highest octane I can find and ethanol free if possible. Around here that usually means 93 octane but 91 ethanol free is a little easier to find and seems to be OK but I prefer the 93.

Good luck with your restoration!