Brake Pulling Question

[bcomo]

I've had a slight brake pull to the right when stopping.

I can slow down to 10 MPH, let go of the wheel and apply the brakes, and it will pull to the right. Not a hard pull, but I will have to correct it immediately.

I completely rebuilt the entire brake system -- new master cylinder, new lines, new shoes, turned drums, new wheel cylinders. I bled them twice, and just adjusted them again. I even tried tightening the left shoes more than the right, and the pull to the right is still there.

Has anyone had a slight pull like this, or offer anything that I can try?

[JohnG]

hi Bart

When I first got my car (2003) it had similar problems. Alot of new parts, careful adjustment and so on, but pulled noticeably to one side.

I told some old timer at a car show about it and he said "did you radius your brake shoes?" and of course I had to say "no...I don't even know what that means!".

He went on to say that the brake shoe's outer surface may not be perfectly circular (viewed from the side), or even if it is, it is not identical with the inner surface of your brake drum. Result: reduced contact area and less power on that wheel.

Basically you get a large file or palm sander and spend some time with the drum and shoe and fine tune the shoe surface until you get a good match. I put some chalk on the shoe which allowed me to visually see what was hitting and what was not. In my case, the leading and trailing edges were hitting but the middle of the shoe was not.

I don't know for certain, of course, that this is your problem, but it's not too bad to look into and costs nothing to remedy (except that age old currency: time).

John

[bcomo]

That could be the problem. I haven't checked that.

When you radiused your shoes, did it solve your brake pull?

P.S. I forgot to ask --

Are you using Dot 3 Brake fluid? And aren't we supposed to flush brake fluid every 2 years or so?

Thanks

[JohnG]

hi Bart

the contouring I did seemed to solve the problem. I suspect that time and wear also "mates" them together.

There is also the low probabililty chance that the metal portion of one of your lines got scrunched and is only passing a little bit of fluid. I forgot to mention that.

I use DOT 5. It ruins my brake light sending unit about once a year but the internal parts stay clean and corrosion free virtually forever. Also doesn't wreck the paint on the firewall.

John

[byersmtrco]

Check the drums for heat spots.
The Sq/birds did not have a prop/valve. They had brake pull brand new in 1960 (or 58 or 59)
Very poor brake design. Actually the design is ok, but it's for a 55-57 TBird(almost 1000 lbs lighter)

[Guest]

Hey Bart
I agree with what all the guys have said to check and most likley you can fix your brakes,But I have to tell you I had the same problem but it only happened to me each time I went past the beer wagon and then it pulled to the left and locked up until I got a cold one.

[byersmtrco]

I had a Harley like that once. Going by any bar, the rear wheel would lock. Beer trucks and liquor stores were a problem too.

[FeFranco]

Is there a possibility that oil/grease got on the lining? Or check this out; http://books.google.com/books?id=hRm...um=7&ct=result
Hopefully this is page 252 "lining to drum fit" and this will explain why arcing/radiusing DRUM FRONT brakes need to be checked for proper fit. Hit the magnifier for easier reading. By the way who did your brakes?

Franco

[FeFranco]

Bart, this will explain how to check the radius/arc;

http://books.google.com/books?id=mNIhYSCBfmUC&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=how+to+arc+drum+brakes&source=web&ots=EdWSCAQWKJ&sig=WlRosl4bsl3TLzv2yDlZ_pTPJ9s&hl=en&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=3&ct=result#PPA138,M1

This should be page 138 "check shoe arc"

[JohnG]

good article, Franco... thanks!

[bcomo]

Good article Franco. I did the complete brake job. No grease or brake fluid on the parts. But I had the drums turned, and I'm pretty sure that it may be the shoes need to be arced. I'll look at that first.

Thanks

[tbird430]

Didn't you buy all new mounting hardware too Bart (springs)?

[bcomo]

Yes. And also brand new wheel cyinders.

[fomoco59]

Been driving Squarebirds for nearly 20 years and the brakes just need to be adjusted occasionally, regardless.

[KULTULZ]

Usually, when one has a pulling problem on four wheel drums;

• Move the front tires from side to side- test drive. If the pull is still on the same side;
  
  
• Move the front brake drums from side to side- test drive. If the pull is still one the same side, you have trouble either in the foundation brakes or the hydraulics.

The arcing of brakes shoes is seldomly done now (most are disc). I haven't even seen a grinder in years. The shoes will seat to the drum after a thousand miles or so and need to be re-adjusted at that time. If the car has operational self-adjusters, there is usually no need to adjust once again for the life of the shoes.

Something else to look for is grooves worn into the backing plate from constant shoe movement. The shoes may not return fully. These raised spots also need to be lubed at shoe replacement at the least.

Make sure the intial brake adjustment (and after shoe wear-in) is done properly.