starter motor just clicking

[simplyconnected]

Being an old GM guy, Chevys used to have the same problem. Most often when things got really hot. I installed a relay in my old van and never had a problem after that. It was a lot easier than crawling under the truck and tapping on the solenoid to get it to crank.
Nyles

Wait a minute. I'm confused. GM starters have an electromagnet (solenoid) to complete the electrical path AND to pull the Bendix gear into the flex plate or flywheel. That's why they have a large and small wire, one for power and the other for control. A huge spring pulls the solenoid back to the home position.

Squarebird starters have neither an electromagnet nor electrical contacts in the starter motor. The Bendix gear is totally mechanical.

How would you add a fender solenoid to a GM starting system? What would it accomplish? - Dave

[Tbird1044]

Dave:
The only thing that made any sense to me was the drop in resistance not going through the ignition switch and safety neutral switch. I put full battery voltage through the fender mounted solenoid to pull the factory starter solenoid in to engage. The wire that normally went to the starter solenoid was used to activate the fender solenoid. Keep in mind that the starter and solenoid is located right under the exhaust manifold, and most of my starter problems occurred after long runs when things got really hot. All I know is that without changing anything else I never had a problem after the change and I pulled my boat through the desert when it was 100F+.
Nyles

[simplyconnected]

So, how did you connect the GM starter motor? Did you tie the solenoid wire to the armature wire?

Regardless of everything else, your GM starter motor needs the solenoid to come in FIRST because the solenoid completes the path for armature current using huge contacts. (I started with GM cars too but I was in my teens.)

I don't see how adding another relay would do any good. If you have resistance in your key switch and neutral switch, something isn't right. That same wire is turning on a second starter relay, the same as it did the first. Meaning, you would still have the same resistance regardless of which solenoid it energizes. - Dave

[Tbird1044]

Dave:
If you Google it, you will find a lot of guys that did the conversion. Here is just one I found:

wyatt
Member
from southern tn.

the best way, the cheapest way, is to use a ford solenoid. jump the 12v(+ bat.) lug on the starter to the starter lug with at least 10 ga. copper wire. your + battery cable installs directly to the ford solenoid and from the there to your starter. the only wires on your starter should be the jumper and the battery cable from the ford solenoid. mount the solenoid right above the starter on the firewall. all other (hot) wires go the ford solenoid. this is an old racers trick that has always worked very well. .......regards.....
Nyles

[lake bird]

While checking for opens ,the volt meter ohms rest between the starter body (-) and the battery (+) the rest is high...voltage reading is low
OK...across the starter wiring from the battery to the starter post...12.5 V ?

Lakebird

[simplyconnected]

I'm not exactly sure what your post says. It looks like you are asking a question but I'm not sure.
I have sensitive meters but that's not what you want to check for voltage. A better tester is a 'test light' with a regular incandescent bulb. The lamp will show partial power and partial ground by shining dim. An LED or neon light might shine bright because they offer no load.

Now, I need to guess...
This is the 'POWER' side of the starting circuit.

• Do you have a solid body ground (for your starter solenoid)?
• Do you have a solid engine ground (for your starter motor)?

If you're not sure, RE-DO your grounds.

After the grounds are done, use one jumper cable across your starter relay.

• Does the starter motor turn? If not, check your connection at the starter motor. If the connection is good, your starter motor may be bad. If it does turn, this verifies your starter motor is good.

This is the CONTROL side of the starting circuit.
When you turn the key to 'start'.

• Do you have power on the small starter solenoid post (closest to the battery)? If 'yes' then your starter solenoid has a bad ground or it is bad. If 'no', follow the circuit back to the neutral switch and to your key switch

Tell us what you found. - Dave

[VaBird1960]

1960 rebuilt starter problem

Rebuilt starter just installed. When I hook up cables the starter engages without key. Solenoid replaced. Any ideas? Ground? Solenoid connection to starter?
Thanks.

[simplyconnected]

John, which starter solenoid did you use, one with one or two small posts?

Sounds like you have the two small wires reversed. The small, push-on, red/blue wire should connect to the post closest to the battery terminal. The other one comes directly from the coil (+), so if that one is connected to the post closest to the battery the solenoid will engage every time you turn the key to on. BTW, this small post closest to the battery post is the solenoid's positive coil wire. Ground for the other side of the solenoid's coil comes from the metal frame.

The large posts: The starter motor side should have only one wire, the one connected to the starter motor. All the rest go to the battery side. - Dave

[YellowRose]

Starter/Solenoid Issue

I am reposting this for VaBird1960. He started another thread for this problem. But below is Dave's response to it. John is restoring his grandfathers Squarebird! John, if you have not seen Dave's response, scroll down under this to see it.

"I had old starter rebuilt. I installed it but starter immediately engages without key. I replaced solenoid and it still happens. What have I missed?"