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'64 Seat Bolts

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  • jmdortch48
    Newbie
    • Nov 5 2013
    • 17

    '64 Seat Bolts

    Alright gents,

    After doing a quick search across the forums, I didn't find anything related to this, so here it goes.

    After removing the driver's seat from my '64, I noticed that the bolts that go down through the floor are extremely rusted. Of course, I plan to replace them and did find resources for replacements in my search, but my question is: in the interest of the future of this car, how can I ensure that I don't encounter this again? Is this something others have come across?

    While I don't intend for this car to endure the same conditions it likely has over the past 50 years, I want to be sure I do everything I can to minimize future problems, and it seems like there should be something practical I can do to keep this from being a problem.

    Any suggestions short of just sealing them upon reinstallation?
  • Guest

    #2
    seat bolts

    I have used in the past on several cars a light coat of never sieze worked quite I use it everywhere caliper slide bolts lug studs alittle goes a long way

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    • Cwcb08
      Experienced
      • Oct 11 2016
      • 163

      #3
      Where did you find your replacement studs? I'm in need of some
      2016 FORD F150 XLT 3.5 EB SPORT 302a - 2012 KAWASAKI ZX-6R - 2012 LEGEND DELUXE V-NOSE - 2008 KAWASAKI ZZR600 - 2008 FORD FOCUS SE - 2007 KAWASAKI ZX-6R - 2002 ARTIC CAT 500 - 1990 JOHN DEERE 265 - 1966 FORD THUNDERBIRD HARDTOP TOWN

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      • Yadkin
        Banned
        • Aug 11 2012
        • 1905

        #4
        I just bought grade 8 bolts at Lowes for my front seats, since the old ones were badly corroded. The new bolts are zinc dichromate plated, better than the OEM coated bolts. The exposed heads under the car get coated with undercoating anyway.

        For many of the bolts in my car, for example fender bolts, I prep and recoat as the factory did, using a parkerizing process (phosphate is the automotive term). I think I have a thread here on that. Prep is the hard part, degrease, wire brush or sand blast, lots of hand work. Coating is easy, mixing the right solution in an old stainless steel pan, heating it to the right temperature and "cooking" the bolts or other metal parts. Rinse, dry, then coat with WD-40. The result is a factory correct restoration. The phosphate coating is porous (so it holds oil), hard, wear resistant, and microscopically thin. To keep rust-free, dab a little WD-40 on them periodically.

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