Windshield wiper motor removal

[sidewalkman]

Hi Guys

I'm trying to remove the WW motor, have the TRL link and read it, but I'm stuck at removing the tension to remove the cables. I loosen the 7/16 nut on the arm and put channel locks on it but it just rotates the wipers, what am I doing wrong?

[arizonajack]

Have you released the tension arms?

See photos of motor at bottom of the manual page.

[del]

You don't necessarily have to remove the cables from the cable drum when doing this job, but you do have to get the tension off the cables in order to maneuver things around. I wrapped some duct tape around that mechanism to keep the cables in place on the drum. Once I got the old vacuum motor out, I was able to move the cable drum around to get things put back together. Have Fun!

[sidewalkman]

I finally got it out, disconnected everything, once I figure out how to compress the springs it was pretty easy but the picture on the TRL did more damage than good, I found if you use channel locks from the front it works easier and doesn't damage any of the cabling.

I'm going to do the brake fluid thing after I put it in, but there is complete vacuum in the unit with no leaks, the tubing was the issue with to many connection. I got rid of the non working washer unit although I kept it but removing that from the equation should certainly help, I now have 1 line from the pump directly to the WW motor.

[simplyconnected]

... once I figure out how to compress the springs it was pretty easy but the picture on the TRL did more damage than good, I found if you use channel locks from the front it works easier and doesn't damage any of the cabling...

That's EXACTLY the feedback our members need, so Thank You!

Ray, would you reflect this and change the TRL? - Dave

[sidewalkman]

Ray, the picture in the TRL showed channel locks compressing the tension arms from the side, so around the drum, when I did this it actually bent the little retaining tabs that hold the cables in place making it next to impossible to get the cables off until I realized my mistake. By compressing from the front with a 7/16 ratcheting box end wrench on the bolt I could compress the tension arms and tighten the bolt holding them in place. No permanent harm done I was able to straighten the tabs with needle nose pliers.

[YellowRose]

Windshield wiper motor removal

Thanks for the input. I will see about changing that information in the TRL about this...

[YellowRose]

Windshield wiper motor removal

I fixed the TRL entry.

[simplyconnected]

Thanks Ray, for those who want the link, here it is:

http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/wiper_motor.htm

[sidewalkman]

Wow, so to finish this up, got the wiper motor back in, plugged off all the lines except for the one to the motor and the bottom input opening. Took forever to get the cables back on as they'd gone back up under the dash and off the spools, but they're back on. While it was apart I redid all the junctions between the heater box and the defrost ducts there was the old pieces just hanging there but the actual ducts were in great shape even retaining the screens at the top.

AND the wipers work well. Now I'm tackling the washers, putting in an electric pump and retrofitting something to work with the original washer switch. I'll post some pictures as I go. I have a plan!

[jopizz]

AND the wipers work well. Now I'm tackling the washers, putting in an electric pump and retrofitting something to work with the original washer switch. I'll post some pictures as I go. I have a plan!

Here's the link to the article in the TRL about converting the original switch to electric. When I've done them I haven't used the spring and it works just fine.

http://www.squarebirds.org/WindshieldWasher/Retrofit/WasherPumpRetrofit.htm

John

[sidewalkman]

Thanks John

I've got an idea sort of half the TRL and half my idea, I'll take pictures of the project in stages, I'm waiting for a bunch of wires to arrive from China to start.

[simplyconnected]

...AND the wipers work well. Now I'm tackling the washers, putting in an electric pump and retrofitting something to work with the original washer switch...

Scott, that's music to my ears. I love the electric wipers because they are so strong in all road conditions and they have multiple speeds. (Interval is an option that I use a lot.)

For your washers, be creative... My New Port dash switch came with a contact for the washers. (Push the switch in and it closes a momentary contact.) If you are considering using the original vacuum washer switch, rob an old computer mouse. They have two micro switches (one rarely gets used). Mount the micro switch inside the vacuum switch and let it energize a standard automotive relay coil (they're only a few bucks).

Relay coils draw well under one amp, allowing small 22-ga wires, but the contacts can pass over twenty. The beauty is, you can mount a relay anywhere, like under the hood, with one small wire feeding the coil (the other coil wire connects to ground). - Dave

[430bird60]

Trying to remove the wiper motor inorder to replace with electric. I loosened the nut on the drum, compressed the tension arms and tightened the nut. When I released the pliers the tension arms went back to their original position. Tried several times same result. Any suggestions? Actually, I wasn't able to use pliers as the tensioning arms are very close to the defreoster outlet on the heater plenum so I was able to use a C-clamp. I tried turning the drum but stopped as I didn't want to create another problem. Can the drum be turned manually? Thanks for any help.
Ken

[p38fighter]

Lets see if I understand your question and see if this helps. I did this a little over two years ago but I believe I didn't remove the drum. I wrapped tape tightly around the drum to hold the cables in place. I then removed the vacuum motor. This left the drum and drive plate plate hanging as a unit. I then screwed the new wiper motor in place while engaging the drum driver. You might have to cycle the new motor to get the engagement where you want it. Then I bolted up the drive plate and drum. Removed the tape and tested it. Works fine. See the picture for the screws which hold the motor to the drive plate and the bolts that hold the drive plate to the dash structure.