One Wire Alternator Problem

[1960Bird]

I have just instaled my new engine, new mini starter and a one wire alternator in my car. I cranked the engine over to get some pre oiling prior to the initial start up of the new engine. After about five to 10 seconds of cranking, smoke appeared, coming out of some of the wiring under the dash on the drivers side. I have two ground wires hooked up one from water pump to battery and one from battery to fender wall. I also have a jumper from the fender wall to the engine head. I did not notice any wires burning in the engine bay. Is it possible that due to the one wire alternator that I am having a problem with the old regulator as the new alternator has a regulator built in.







Steve Ronk
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
1960 HT

[Alexander]

RE: One Wire Alternator Problem

There is little wiring onthe right side of the dash other than the map light and the door jamb switch. There are few wires there if you have A/C.

You may want to read these articles on how to wire up a one wire alternator on a car that previously had a generator: http://mightymo.org/Proj_OneWire.html & http://www.film.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Alternator.html .

Alexander
1959 Hardtop
1960 Golde Top

[Guest]

RE: One Wire Alternator Problem

What is a mini starter?

[Alexander]

RE: One Wire Alternator Problem

http://www.pa-performance.com/images/items/101.jpg

It is a smaller starter used in performance applications. I works better than stock but but does not look stock. It is also a "short nose" It costs about $170. The stock 1958 to 1964 starter was the "long nose" type. The 1965 and later bell housings do not have the recess to fit these starters. The "short nose" starters will fit the pre 1965 transmissions according to the book by Steve Christ on FE engines.


This Ford Style Mini-Starter is an “Upgrade” for the Unique FE Engines

At only 8.5lbs vs. the 18 lbs stock field wound starter in those early years it often reduces weight almost 50% and requires less cranking amps

Because of it’s very small size it potentially increases header clearance and reduces the effects of “hot start”. This starter works well on higher compression engines

Includes the conversion wire kit to upgrade the vehicle wiring

The aluminum nose is hand made for us and we apply our already proven starter motor design and components to this finished product. It does not have the OEM Factory cosmetics, but is a direct bolt in and there are many in use already with great success

http://www.pa-performance.com/display.asp?sku=101&rP=searching,rqDesc@mini+starter,rqOrder@1

Alexander
1959 Hardtop
1960 Golde Top

[Guest]

RE: One Wire Alternator Problem

Cool...so this will work on a 59 fe engine! ....interesting....I'll have to check this out again when I get to that phase....
thanks for the info, and the link....

[1960Bird]

RE: One Wire Alternator Problem

It will work...but you need a newer 184 tooth flexplate PA Starters are very good.

Steve Ronk
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
1960 HT 390 cu in, Edelbrock RPM intake, 3.70 rear gears

[1960Bird]

RE: One Wire Alternator Problem

My one wire alternator/mini starter problem was neither, I hooked a positive wire from the relay to the ground wire on my new carbs electric choke by mistake. The alternator works great also the mini starter. You must rev the engine up to 1200 RPM to activate the alternator, but I have no problem doing that ;-) It charges 14 volts at idle after it is activated.


Steve Ronk
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
1960 HT 390 cu in, Edelbrock RPM intake, shorty headers and 3.70 rear gears...if you are going to go in style you might as well go fast