My new j-code golde

[villain]

Thanks for all the help already guys.
I found a good restoration place that I went and talked to yesterday - http://realhotrods.com/index.asp
they are all about the project and I gave them my list last night as well as recommended some of the pointers you guys have already given me. They actually knew the car well and are apparently good friends with Fritz Wilson who ran the 59 in Nascar and lives up in Loveland Colorado.
They seem to stay pretty busy, but I'll get in there for the first round of getting it fully sorted and drive-ability modifications in a couple weeks.
Till then, I have still been driving it like crazy - the smoking must have been from it sitting for a while cause that hasn't happened again, the heater core/seal does apparently need to be addressed cause it's not like there is a bunch of stuff dropping in, its still shiny on that rubber mat so there is still a little coming out.
Just to add to the list - the e-brake doesnt seem to work either.
Despite all that trivial stuff - I still love it :-)

Custom Auto also said that regardless of if the engine needed a rebuild or not, that they could modify it to handle unleaded fuel better than it will in stock form...so I'll definitely be getting that done. on that same note - there is a pump south of Loveland that has 93oct, so I took advantage of that on the way out too - this car sure is thirsty :-)

[tbird430]

Several companies actually make a lead additive for these old cars. STP is one that I still have lying around. I run the 93 octane in my 430cid too.

You really don't absolutely have to have the lead additive unless you are pulling something or really burning up the highway/interstate a lot. For these small leasure drive that you have made, you will be safe.

-Jon in TX.

[scumdog]

Several companies actually make a lead additive for these old cars. STP is one that I still have lying around. I run the 93 octane in my 430cid too.

You really don't absolutely have to have the lead additive unless you are pulling something or really burning up the highway/interstate a lot. For these small leasure drive that you have made, you will be safe.

-Jon in TX.

Yup, haven't used any additive since lead went out here in Enn-Zee.

Maybe one day it might bite me on the **** (so to speak) but as of yet all is well.


I just make sure I run the highest octane I can buy - in this town it's 95 = to about 89 in the US.

In the city you can get 98 octane, my F100 runs way better on that.(11:1 429)

[villain]

Yup, haven't used any additive since lead went out here in Enn-Zee.

Maybe one day it might bite me on the **** (so to speak) but as of yet all is well.


I just make sure I run the highest octane I can buy - in this town it's 95 = to about 89 in the US.

In the city you can get 98 octane, my F100 runs way better on that.(11:1 429)

Hope all is well for you and family in NZ dude.

[Dakota Boy]

your experience so far seems alot like mine:

Get the car.

Make a list of everything you need/want to fix.

Then knock 'em off one by one....

Enjoy!

by the way, I got my clock to work with a little light oil... the original mechanism with all the tiny gears is SO cool. Made in Delavan, WI Dec 1957 stamped on the back. Good stuff!!!

[scumdog]

Hope all is well for you and family in NZ dude.

Thanks for the concern, nice of you to ask but we're all well down here.

We're not troubled by any shakes of real notice as we're 270+ miles from the epicentre - still makes you wonder, especially when working under a car on axle stands.
(A few cars fell off hoists, stands etc in and around Christchurch - of course some were also just plain flattened).

[Rockin Kev]

You see guys the j code golde are out there, black with chrome dress kit, .love it, nice to see the rot sheet with roof code 5 but if you didnt know code m for corinthian white paint but looks fab in black.

kev

[Guest]

Dave it looks like you have a great start on a wonderful car

[villain]

It's going in week after next for the first round! they will go through the engine a bit for a tune up and just to fix anything that may be going on, do the front disc brake conversion, fix all the steering column weirdness and signals and such, replace the glass that needs to be done, etc. They should only need it a week or so and I'll have her back.

Interestingly, it seems to me like the original radio may work...basically if I turn it all the way up, I can hear static and stuff just no stations...I am wondering if that antenna on the trunk simply isn't hooked up or something. I'm gonna keep messing with it.

Dakota Boy - looks like you have some extensive work done on your ride...and like there is some serious rubber back in the rear got any more details or specs on your build?

[villain]

Okay, so the horn started working tonight :-) it's not 100%, but it definitely works. and I'm pretty sure the radio works now too just needs the antenna hooked up (its a disconnected wire in the trunk). The car just keeps getting better :-)

[YellowRose]

My new j-code golde

Hi Dave,

I was going to say to check the antenna on the passenger side by the spotlight. But after looking at all the pix of your Tbird, it looks like they took that antenna out! So your only antenna might be the one on the trunk. You are probably right. It probably is not hooked up to the radio. Keep in mind that you have vacuum tubes in the radio and it takes a few minutes for them to warm up. I would have said to check the ribbon cable that comes from the power supply/amplifier unit behind that chrome panel by your left knee. But since you said you have power and hear static, that unit must be working. So you are probably missing the the antenna connected to the back of the radio. There is also a trimmer on the bottom of the radio, in the back left corner, as I recall. Using a plastic trimmer adjustment tool, or a small flathead screw driver, try adjusting it.

If you are going to do the front disc brakes, you probably want to do the change out of the single master cylinder to a dual MC, and IF you have a power booster under the hood in the engine bay, change it out to a dual power booster. If you do not have one there, then you have one under the dash, which you can leave in, but add a dual power booster under the hood. You will also need to add a combination valve to the dual MC and dual power booster. You can get each of them in chrome from OldIrishDave shamrock_dave@yahoo.com 575-544-4729 for a really decent price. You will also need a special mounting bracket to push the dual MC/dual power booster past the AC plenum. That mounting bracket is being made special by Howard Prout, here on the Forum. This dual system, chromed or not, works well, and is what I am about to put on my Tbird. You really should talk with Dave Dare ~ simplyconnected. I am sending you his phone number in email. There is a whole lot more to this disc brake conversion than you might know about. First of all, do you have 14" rims on your Tbird? Or 15" or bigger? If you have 14" rims, they might be the original ones and they will NOT work on a disc conversion, because the original rims are not set up to accept the disc brake parts inside them. I had to get a different set of rims that were off a different model, that DID have disc brakes on the car to get this to work. There is a lot more you need to know about doing this on this Tbird. Call Dave. I am sure he will not mind talking with you about this and will probably be able to save you a lot of problems doing the conversion and time and money.

Now, you want to give the mechanics who are going to be working on your Tbird, the link to the Technical Resource Library because they are going to need a lot of the information in it to work on your Tbird. If you already have a 1960 shop manual, they are gonna need that also. If you don't have one, you can get one quickly from any of the Tbird parts houses. The information on how to fix the horn problem, turn signals, shifting problems (might need a new detent plate in the steering wheel. Available from Marianne from the Home web page here, and maybe a new shift lever. The end gets worn down), is all in the Technical Resource Library. The shop manual will be a big help to them too.

http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

[villain]

- I don't know about that A/C dash plate. Maybe ask someone at Concours or try another member on here, Carl Heller (partsetal). I bet you can find a good original "donor" with a few phone calls.

it's in the owners manual too - its just the little metal plate that says AC or Heat on the left and right side and indicates to pull out on either that knob on the right or left. i dont see it in any catalogs and it's not like it's a big deal or anything...just that there are two holes there that are supposed to be filled by it and it would be cool to have it back on there. Well, that and it would have been pretty handy as i am trying to figure out how that AC works - i was driving around last night with it on AC, but with it set all the way warm :-) apparently the AC still works though :-)

[YellowRose]

AC Heater Plate

First of all, here is how I run my AC in Rose. At the top of the round control unit you have a Defroster control. I run mine with the Defroster knob on OFF. On the Cooler OFF Warmer control, I push the knob over on Cooler and it pretty well stays there because of our Texas heat. Below that is the Low High Blower knob. It stay on High because of what I said about Texas heat! On that missing strip that says Air Cond Heater, the left side is AC and pull it out when you want it on. The right side is Heater and keep it pushed IN when you want AC. When you want heat, push the Air Cond control IN and pull OUT the right hand Heater one.

Now, where to find that missing plate. As was suggested, send Carl ~ partsetal an email or Private Message to see if he has one. Or call Don at the Bird Nest, 800-232-6378 who thinks he has one. You can call him later on this afternoon, tell him that I called him about finding that plate for you and tell him it is you that I called him for. He thinks he has one, and is going to look for it. If he does not have one, and Carl does not have one, contact Bob at Bob's Bird House in Delaware and ask them if they have one. Or John Draxler at Thunderbird Ranch.

[Guest]

Hi David car looks great
For those who may be able to help re the A/C plate i guess this is the one

Richard

[villain]

Yep, that's it and I think Ray found me one at the birds nest. I've been out of town but called them with my cc# right before I left, so hopefully it'll be here soon
I know it's trivial and all, and I got bigger fish to fry, but those little holes there bug me- especiay knowing what 'should' be there...yeah, I'm obsessive
Thanks guys.