Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Just getting started

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • Guest

    #16
    Originally posted by simplyconnected
    Ask Jed Zimmerman about the epoxy. He works with it every day. - Dave
    Sierry78, I must beg off on this one. Yes I often do work with epoxies, but only in the repair and fabrication of boats and automobiles (and other stuff too), however I do not have any experience with cement coatings. My advice would be to maybe visit a Home Depot or a Menards and find the brand names of what you find to be acceptable products for your application. The sales clerks may be able to offer you some advice for their products. Before you purchase the stuff, go to the internet and search out the specific product data and material specification (most companies offer pdf docs online). When you are viewing the manufacturer’s specs you should look for the following;
    • Features and Uses
    • Specification Data
    • Product Components, Reducers, Additives, and Auxiliary Components
    • Application Equipment
    • Surface Preparation
    • Mixing and Reduction
    • Application Instructions
    Study the particulars on several different products and manufacturers. With your new found knowledge you will become an expert on product selection relating to your specific application. With respect to all products and their application the very biggest and most important part of the job will be in the surface preparation. Surface preparation may be in fact well over 75% of your time and material cost. A good read on preparation is found at http://www.doityourself.com/stry/preparing-cement-for-epoxy-coating

    Good luck on your research, preparation and the final coating. We’ll look forward to your progress reports.

    Comment

    • sierry78
      Newbie
      • Feb 21 2010
      • 9

      #17
      Thanks for the advice. I have done some research on the epoxy and I am thinking of using the Rustoleum product from Lowes. It says the concrete needs to be 50 degrees. The temps in my area right now are about 45-65 degrees so I think I'm going to let it warm up a little more.

      The shop is an out building about 40 yards from my house. I put roof top and gable end vents on the shop in a cross-ventilation fashion. There is about three times the ventilation our building code calls for. I thought about a powered attic fan, but figured I'll hold off until I see if I need it.

      The compressor switch controls a two-plug outlet in the attic, where the compressor is plugged in. Right now its a normal switch, but I'm considering changing it to a knob timer so I don't accidentally leave it on.

      All my outlets (except the 220vac), switches and air drops are 48" high. The 220vac is lower because of the short cord on the welder. However, its right next to the roll up door which will be open whenever I use it for ventilation. I also have a two-plug outlet on the ceiling. One outlet is being used by the garage door opener, the other I plan to use for a drop light reel. Because of the loft/ attic design, it would be pretty easy to add some additional outlets in the ceiling.

      I just finished my bench and hung my "Guiness Time" clock. Today I will be looking for a stereo system. I'm really gonna have to hold back here and try to remember it's only a stereo for the shop. (My wife thinks I went a little overboard with our surround sound system in the house. I keep telling her that's not possible.)

      Comment

      • sierry78
        Newbie
        • Feb 21 2010
        • 9

        #18
        I'm not sure if this worked but here are some pics.

        (I modified your links to make them clickable. Here ya go! Ray)

        Back of Shop


        Front of Shop


        Loft


        Shop bench


        Attic ladder


        I am going to move this thread to "Anything Goes". I think that is the appropriate Forum for this subject. It is a great thread with a lot of terrific information on how to set up your work shop!
        Last edited by YellowRose; February 24, 2010, 11:39 AM. Reason: Modified links

        Comment

        • ncbird
          Experienced
          • Jan 5 2008
          • 390

          #19
          envy

          Sounds like a great place to work. If your compressor is the one I think it is its the same as mine. A stand up unit on wheels and I love it. I can primer ( I use a devilbiss siphon gun...yea old tech) and shoot most anything other then topcoats. I use a Sata for that and it takes a bunch of air. You will be able to do a lot of the body work yourself since you can primer and sand to your hearts content. I suspect since you had to pull permits for the shop you had to get an elec inspection but I would suggest you look at the switch the compressor is on. I found out when wiring my big compressor there is a motor switch needed. It can handle the surge of the motor starting and they actually come HP rated. You may already have done this. The other thing is maybe an auto drain on the compressor. It is hard enough some times to remember to drain them when they are in sight. The best thing you can do when you start is take lots of before pictures and during disassembly. Don't take for granted you will remember. Plastic see through containers will serve you well especially since you thought ahead about your attic storage. Lots of double zip storage bags and a marker will make the job much easier. Things you take off and decide to replace still have value as trades etc so handle accordingly. You sound like you have it going on so good luck.
          Last edited by ncbird; February 24, 2010, 12:01 PM.
          Grant
          NCbird on the Coast of NC
          "Dads Bird" for my father

          Comment

          • sierry78
            Newbie
            • Feb 21 2010
            • 9

            #20
            Yeah, I think it is the same compressor. Thank you for the advice.

            Comment

            • simplyconnected
              Administrator
              • May 26 2009
              • 8779

              #21
              Originally posted by ncbird
              ...I would suggest you look at the switch the compressor is on. I found out when wiring my big compressor there is a motor switch needed. It can handle the surge of the motor starting and they actually come HP rated...
              Grant, you are soooooo right about motor control.
              When a motor first starts, before it actually turns, we call that "locked rotor current". The nameplate on the motor will show Full Load Amps, but locked rotor current is 400% of FLA. That's right, if you put a tong meter around your motor leads, it shows right up, plain as day. Most people don't believe it until they see for themselves. Now we know why motor branch circuits need at least 125% larger wires and breakers.

              As the motor shaft starts rotating, it actually gives back voltage (Counter-ElectroMotiveForce), which brings the starting current back down. All that is ok for a cold start, but what about when a compressor motor has to overcome the 60-PSI head pressure, already in the surge tank? The motor takes longer to come up to speed and requires more starting current.

              For this kind of duty, the motor should have a contactor with magnetic overloads (we call this a motor starter). These magnetic overloads contain solder, and heaters, matched with the motor current. If they heat up with excessive current, the solder melts and shuts the motor off, protecting it from burning up. This is different from a fuse, which only protects against short-circuit.

              So you guys with big motors (compressors, two & four-post hoists, big polishers/grinders), you need motor starters with magnetic overload protection in addition to your breakers or fuses. This is really important. Motor starters pay for themselves by preventing early motor failure. - Dave
              Member, Sons of the American Revolution

              CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

              "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
              --Lee Iacocca

              From: Royal Oak, Michigan

              Comment

              • sierry78
                Newbie
                • Feb 21 2010
                • 9

                #22
                Is this switch something that goes on my compressor, or something I need to wire into my shop? I upgraded the standard light switch in my shop to a heavy duty switch for the compressor.

                Comment

                • simplyconnected
                  Administrator
                  • May 26 2009
                  • 8779

                  #23
                  Here's an example of one for a small motor, from Square D:

                  The overload heater goes just to the left of the toggle switch, in those two empty holes. Look for an inexpensive one on eBay.

                  They are usually found mounted close to the motor, or on the wall. - Dave
                  Member, Sons of the American Revolution

                  CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

                  "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
                  --Lee Iacocca

                  From: Royal Oak, Michigan

                  Comment

                  • sierry78
                    Newbie
                    • Feb 21 2010
                    • 9

                    #24
                    Below are some of the features of the compressor. It looks as if the motor starter is already built in. If this is correct, can't I just use a heavy duty light switch to energize the outlet the compressor is plugged into?

                    Model Number: P1.5IU-AP
                    Manufacturer: Ingersoll Rand
                    Tank Size: 20 Gallons
                    Motor
                    Running HP: 2 HP
                    Voltage: 115 Volts
                    Phase: Single
                    Magnetic Starter: No
                    Pump
                    Pump Type: Cast Iron
                    CFM @ 90 PSI: 5.2
                    Max Pressure: 135 PSI
                    Overview
                    Certification: UL/CSA/ASME
                    Dimensions: 43"H x 23"W x 22"D
                    Product Weight: 200 lbs
                    Warranty: 1 Year


                    Cast-Iron Construction
                    • Designed for the toughest 100% continuous duty applications


                    Standard 120-Volt Plug
                    • Plugs into standard 120-volt household outlet; 15 amps

                    Meets OSHA Standards
                    • Compliant with UL / CSA / ASME standards

                    Manual Thermal Overload Motor Protection
                    • No starter required;

                    Built With Pride In The USA
                    • All units are pre-wired & thoroughly tested before shipment
                    • Oil is included; no startup kit needed

                    Comment

                    • Coral
                      Super-Experienced

                      • Apr 3 2009
                      • 1132

                      #25
                      I would suggest a GFCI outlet, that way the socket will switch off if theres any overloading....

                      Comment

                      • simplyconnected
                        Administrator
                        • May 26 2009
                        • 8779

                        #26
                        The National Electrical Code is very specific about motor circuits and multiple motor circuits.

                        Look on the nameplate of the motor. Copy all the info, and post it. I'm not as much interested in the name brand, but in order to supply the correct devices and wiring for your motor I need to know what it is.

                        The info you supplied looks like it came from the owner's manual, which is good, but they may use any number of different motors on your compressor. For example,

                        If your motor is capable of 115 OR 230 volts, FLA (full load amps) may be shown as:
                        VOLTS 115/230
                        FLA 12.9/6.4

                        Duty Cycle and Temperature Rise will be included as well. This part pertains to the environment it will run in and the size/type of wire.

                        My cousing bought a 2-post hoist six months ago. It has a small hydraulic pump and a VERY LOW duty-cycle motor. Stickers all over it said, NO thermal protection - only run for 30 seconds.

                        Ingersol Rand makes very good stuff, so my confidence is boosted in their products. Regardless, NONE of the car hoists are made in the USA anymore. NONE of them. This company is well established out of Indiana, but they buy the hoist from China. We called the mfg. about these warning stickers. Their answer was, "Oh, we don't know anything about that and we've never seen that on our product. Check with your regional salesman." We did. His answer was, "Oh, that doesn't mean anything... just hook it up to a 20-amp, 220-volt double pole circuit breaker. I sell these by the hundreds and that's how they are all connected."

                        When we asked about a warranty, we learned the motor had no warranty but the pump did. We assumed the motor and pump were a "power unit". Oh, no.

                        Bottom line is, motors need magnetic overload protection as well as short circuit protection. They all come with different ratings and different duty service and temperature rise ratings. Some fractional motors (like furnace motors) have built-in thermal protection. We are dealing with much bigger motors. Electricians should know the proper feed and protection, gleaned from the NECode Book. If you give me the nameplate info, I can tell you what you need. - Dave
                        Member, Sons of the American Revolution

                        CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

                        "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
                        --Lee Iacocca

                        From: Royal Oak, Michigan

                        Comment

                        • Guest

                          #27
                          If you have ...

                          the 220V option I would use it, more torque, less stressful start up, and cheaper to run. If your drawing more than 12amps or so try to have a dedicated outlet for your compressor. From the info you have posted I would guess that yours is straight 115V. Remember you can never have to much air. If you ever want to be able to have enough volume to run a decent blast cabinet or other cfm gobbling air tools small won't do. If on the other hand your usage is minimal a small unit will suit. My shop unit puts out 22cfm @ 125psi, 175psi shop preasure, with an 80 gal. tank and there are times I have to let it catch up. better to have to much air than not enough. Nice shop. Mike

                          Comment

                          • Dakota Boy
                            Super-Experienced
                            • Jun 30 2009
                            • 1561

                            #28
                            Rustoleum Garage Floor epoxy paint kit is a good product.

                            I used 1 1/2 kits for my two-car garage.

                            Be sure to use the paint-chip sprinkles. It makes it less slippery when its wet.

                            Tape off a line about 1" inside the garage door for a nice straight edge.
                            http://www.tbirdregistry.com/viewdat...ryNumber=33517

                            Comment

                            • sierry78
                              Newbie
                              • Feb 21 2010
                              • 9

                              #29
                              Sorry I've been away for awhile, but my computer crashed. Here is what the tag on my compressor says: 1-phase induction motor, Type AEEF, FR. 90, INS. E, IP 23, output 2 HP 1.5 KW, Poles 2, HZ 60, Volt 115, Amp 15, RPM 3440, Bearing: L.S. 6203ZZ, O.S. 6202ZZ, Rating CONT, IEC34-1:94/AI:96

                              I acid etched the floor today. I wil epoxy it tommorrow.

                              Comment

                              • simplyconnected
                                Administrator
                                • May 26 2009
                                • 8779

                                #30
                                You have a very fast motor. Most are 1,800-rpm, yours is 3,600 (with losses, 3,440-rpm). It is Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled (TEFC) with sealed, self-lubricating ball bearings. IEC 34 is a standard for this type of motor.

                                Single voltage - 115 VAC 60~ (you can't change this)
                                2-HP, 1.5KW (746-watts is one electrical horsepower)
                                15-amps This should be on a 20-amp breaker by itself with #12AWG wire as a minimum standard. If the run is long, use #10 wire on a 20-amp breaker.

                                I would put a manual starter (with a thermal overload) on the wall next to it for two reasons: It can serve as your safety disconnect, and it will protect your motor against mechanical overload (the breaker protects the wire against short circuit). Manual starters usually have a lockable handle, which is a great safety feature especially when you perform maintenance on the compressor. It also comes in handy with kids and while you're away on vacation.

                                Glad you got your computer up again. Good luck on your floor.
                                Member, Sons of the American Revolution

                                CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

                                "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
                                --Lee Iacocca

                                From: Royal Oak, Michigan

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                😀
                                🥰
                                🤢
                                😎
                                😡
                                👍
                                👎