Brake Booster part numbers

[Guest]

I am starting to purchase the parts for the disk brake conversion on my 60 T-bird. MBM says, they do not sell a pb8537 in chrome. Does any one know if the 8531 will fit without any clearance issues? MC and PV will be the same PN's as on the list. My bird is non AC and I'll be using my original firewall bracket.

Thanks for your help,
Joe

[YellowRose]

Brak Booster part numbers

Apparently, MBM has stopped manufacturing the chrome version of the PB8537. I no longer see it listed on Pirate Jacks website either. You might call either MBM or Pirate Jack (866-601-4455 ) and ask them if the PB8531 in chrome is a good replacement for the PB8537. Or if not, what is. I do see that Pirate Jack and MBM still sells the non-chrome PB8537, though, as I recall, Pirate Jack was out of stock.

There is a PB8537C Chrome for sale on Amazon for $155. Here is the link. It is the only one I found.

http://www.amazon.com/Bronco-1976-77...N%3DB00FTGE0IS

[Guest]

Brake Booster part numbers

MBM suggested it. I just wanted to know if anyone has actually used it. Zinc or chrome, it doesn't really matter, I would just prefer that it be all or not. I seen that simplyconnected was offering a non chrome set up. I email him after work, to see if he is still doing that.

[YellowRose]

Brake Booster part numbers

I see that there is a zinc PB8537 available from Amazon for $136.98.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listi...N%3DB00BF1UMGA

Dave ~ simplyconnected is not selling boosters that I know of. He was probably posting that he had found a source for them through Old Irish Dave, who is no longer in business. It does appear that the PB8537 is becoming more difficult to locate, but MBM still lists it in its catalog as being available.

[Guest]

Disc brake parts

I converted my 1960 Thunderbird to Disc brakes last year. If I can help with anything just ask me. I have the list of parts I used and there is a spread sheet on the TRL. With all the parts and part#. Dave Dare (~simplyconnected) was a big help.

I used the Scarebird brackets that worked really well. My only trouble came with the brake plumbing.

And locating 14" rims to use with my tires and hubcaps.

[Guest]

Disc brake parts

The plumbing looks like it is the least straight forward part of this conversion.

I am using Dave's .xls list, very, very helpful (worth the cost of membership alone). What booster and MC did you use? Are they very close to the valve cover? I'm using tall aluminum finned covers and concerned about clearance. I can put the originals back on, if need be. Joe

[YellowRose]

Brake Booster part numbers

Howard and I used the MBM PB8537 Chrome version 8" dual power booster and there are three versions of this Corvette style dual MC, a bubble top and a flat top. MBM MC1321A or MC1321ACH in Chrome, or MBM MC1321ACHFT - Flat Head, or MC1321H. We used the MC1321ACH in Chrome. I might should have gotten the flat top, because I see that the inside of my hood is hitting the top of the bubble top MC when I close the hood, and has chipped the paint on the hood slightly. This dual MC is a Corvette style MC.

[simplyconnected]

Now you know why it's important to raise the booster 5", to clear everything.

It also helps to mount your combination valve on the fender apron and not under the master. This gives more room for your hands to change plugs.

You should end up with something that resembles Marcelo's setup:





He used a 2" spacer directly behind the booster but he could have used a 1" or so. - Dave

[Guest]

I didn't realize that. I thought it was only for the AC cars. Can I buy that or do I need to have it fabricated? I see the drawings on the site (I thought were for the AC cars).

[Guest]

Marcelo's setup looks like it move the booster forward, instead of up, with that extension on the bracket.

[simplyconnected]

Marcelo's setup incorporates his existing 1960 firewall bracket (that was riveted to a booster, but cut off). All hardware from his firewall bracket to the brake pedal remained OEM and intact.

Even so, the OEM bracket raised the booster up and out to clear the steering column's shift mechanisms. It also gave enough clearance for the OEM 10" single-stage booster. Your two-stage 8" booster also happens to be 10" in diameter but it is longer.

Howard's firewall bracket incorporates all the extension additions into one firewall bracket. Howard's is a '59 Squarebird, which had no firewall booster to retrofit. Howard's concern was his 430 engine and the air cleaner snorkel clearance. Howard's firewall bracket is a true winner that at least two people use today.

It boils down to this... If you have more money than time, buy the expensive setup. It will work.
If you can fabricate and have time to make your own bracket, I think this is a better way to go and it is what I would do. - Dave

[Guest]

Dave, please excuse my confusion here. Marcelo's adapter is simple enough to make. If I need to make the adapter to raise the booster, that is also easy to do, but I then see a need for a dog leg between the bracket linkage and the plunger in the booster at that point. I'm struggling to understand how his adapter raises the booster any higher than the original bracket by itself. It's clear that it moves it forward. "Now you know why it's important to raise the booster 5", to clear everything."

[toddgilroy]

How much do the various parts add up to, if you can find them?

Or you can order part #9787 from ABS Power Brakes for $295 plus shipping. Booster (w/bracket), MC and combination valve. Bolts right up without the need to fabricate anything.

http://www.abspowerbrake.com/maincat...ameset014.html

I have not installed mine yet, but see post #28.
http://squarebirds.org/vbulletin/sho...t=10943&page=3

[simplyconnected]

Let's back up. If you have a 1960 SB with factory power brakes, then you can use your existing firewall bracket (and all the hardware back to the pedal). Simply cut the rivets off your booster and get ready to adapt to the new booster's bolt centers.

The OEM firewall bracket is already raised enough and there is ample room (distance from the firewall) for the link between the firewall and booster.

Most new boosters come with an input rod that is too long. I cut mine off 'to length'. Marcelo didn't want to cut his so he used a 2" X 2" trailer hitch to adapt. His 'extension bracket' didn't need to be that long. He could have used 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" square tubing but he used what he already had.

Look closely at Marcelo's bracket. Two holes (on the booster side) are crowded 'in' close while the firewall bracket side bolt holes are outward. So, the 'legs' of his extension bracket are cut at different widths by maybe 1/2":



Wait until you get your booster before cutting steel and boring holes. You know how to do this... use the centers (top to bottom and left to right) to determine hole placements. The center lines should match between the booster and bracket.

Follow this and you will be good whether you run A/C or not.

Todd, using the OEM firewall bracket will save at least US$150.00 - Dave

[toddgilroy]

Todd, using the OEM firewall bracket will save at least US$150.00 - Dave

Really? Where can you find the right booster, MC and combination valve for $145.00?