Engine Timing/Carb Fine Tuning

[flyinthermals]

Yes Woobie. The firing pin was on the rotor pointing to #1 cylinder on the distributor cap. Bang on. Its so easy to miss posts here and forget to respond. Sorry if I missed any here. It was not intentional. A beautiful 30 degrees here and my children are asking to go for a ride in the Thunderbird.

[scumdog]

I didn’t see one ( but maybe I didn’t look!) but have you actually got a PCV valve in the hose to the carb or have you just got a hose going from road draft tube site directly to the carb base?

[flyinthermals]

I think there is one . Its a one way check valve right?

[flyinthermals]

Compression Test Results

Here is the result of my compression test. I held it for 2 min to see if any leakage.I did not notice any.

DRY

140, 128, 129, 132, 130, 123, 130, 123

Wet

142, 141, 139, 141, 139, 140, 142, 143

[Woobie]

Great Let's Go !

Do you do the "note to self" thing or "sticky pad" or the index card on the kitchen cabinet ?

Some kind of reminder to check those carburetor bolts in a week or two. Maybe some sort of serrated lock washer.

[simplyconnected]

Here is the result of my compression test. I held it for 2 min to see if any leakage.I did not notice any.

DRY

140, 128, 129, 132, 130, 123, 130, 123

Wet

142, 141, 139, 141, 139, 140, 142, 143

What is 'wet' and 'dry'? What order is this in? Is it one bank, then the other, or did you follow the firing order, or? I'll tell you why it makes a difference later.

I would expect the compression test done as the engine is cranking, just as it is. Your numbers look decent. - Dave

[jopizz]

John: If you have the " Jim Osborn " electrical assembly manual , page 59 and 61 shows the spacer for a '62 with A/C . Shows water going through the spacer . Do not see it for the '61 however .

That's possible, I don't remember having a '62 with A/C. I'm pretty sure the ones I've had without air didn't use that spacer.

John

[flyinthermals]

Oh Oh. I did not realize that I was suppose to go in firing order. I done left bank then right bank. First time doing it. Cylinders 1 to 8 measured dry. Then repeated cylinders 1 to 8 wet. How do the numbers look? The engine is tired I guess? A healthy engine should not see increase numbers wet?

Sorry Woobie. Not sure what you mean. Im looking at that spacer and thinking to avoid it for now. Unless anyone thinks it might make a difference in sealing the vacuum leak. Is it the right spacer for this carb? Is it worth trying to square it up and level out the corrosion and pitting?I have a gasket that the carb shop gave me. Is this the right type and quality for this issue? Do I have all the plumbing and fittings? Someone mentioned that coolant flows through for my A/C application. Whats involved with set up?

[Woobie]

Open the butterflys of the carburetor with the carb and metal spacer lined up together to make sure the butterflies move smoothly without jamming up against the spacer.

You've got the wrong gaskets. Bring the carb spacer or carb numbers with you when you buy the gaskets.

Earlier I was saying recheck the carb in a week or two to make sure it is still tight and that a serrated washer under the nuts may help keep things tight.

[flyinthermals]

Ok. Will do. When I took the carb off , there was no sedated washers just 4 or 5 on most studs under the nut? Not sure why it was like that. There was only 1 gasket. Do I need more than 1? I will go to Napa or Performance Improvements to get the gaskets I guess. Thanks for the help.

I did not mention this but the compression test was done on a cold engine. The carb was off the car. I have read that a warm engine is ideal. Would the. numbers be much different on a warm engine? Thanks.

[Woobie]

Yes you need one gasket under the carb and one gasket under the spacer. Two gaskets. Bring the carb and spacer if you are more comfortable doing it that way.

The serrated washers are not flat. Side view they are wavy.

There are a couple of owner's manuals online for your carb.

You should blow out the air bleeds on the top of the carb with compressed air. The whole thing needs a good wipe down.

[flyinthermals]

Perfect. Thanks Austin for your help. Thanks everyone. I will inform on my progress

Cheers

[Woobie]

Ok. Always welcome.

This is a very important adjustment about the accelerator pump. There is a section on the nylon accelerator pump cams also.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-Nx5HEzvlY

And a crappy video about the little holes on the outer edges of the four barrels called Air Bleeds. You can see the air bleeds in the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQMJ7a4hg2I

For tighening the carb/spacer down to the intake manifold it's criss-cross gradual tightening 60-80 lbs.

[scumdog]

Ok. Always welcome.

This is a very important adjustment about the accelerator pump. There is a section on the nylon accelerator pump cams also.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-Nx5HEzvlY

And a crappy video about the little holes on the outer edges of the four barrels called Air Bleeds. You can see the air bleeds in the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQMJ7a4hg2I

For tighening the carb/spacer down to the intake manifold it's criss-cross gradual tightening 60-80 lbs.

60-60lbs sound like a LOT!

[Woobie]

60-60lbs sound like a LOT!

60lbs is a LOT

60-80 in./lbs

page 3 of the manual

http://documents.holley.com/199r7948-5rev6.pdf