Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Tips on droppng 430 pan while on my back?

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • vernz
    Experienced
    • Jul 12 2008
    • 224

    #16
    I actually wasn't looking for racing oil, but one of the posts last year on what oil to use concluded that modern 20W50 oil came closest to the viscosity of the straight 30W oil that the engine was designed to run on. I was convinced in that post to use 20W 50 and when I saw that the Valvoline oil boasted of having extra zinc I was sold. I actually didn't realize it was "racing" oil until I took out the container for this string. I have some of the zinc additive so I'll go back to non-racing oil and add the zinc. Also, I purchased one of the billet oil pump drive shafts for my 59. Even thought I talked to the people and told them it was for a 430 MEL, the shaft I received was inches too short. I never bothered sending back. Anyone need a 352 billet oil pump shaft?

    Vern

    Comment

    • simplyconnected
      Administrator
      • May 26 2009
      • 8778

      #17
      Vernon, I hope your oil pan job goes smoothly. I figured you'd do it this weekend and I wish you good luck. Don't get hung up on all the side jobs and improvements. I understand you will overhaul your engine soon, so a good thorough cleaning is all you need until then.

      I didn't intend on getting sidetracked with a discussion about oil, pump driveshafts, and seafoam.

      When you pull your pan and wash everything, I'm sure you will know what needs to be done. 99% of any restoration is 'cleanup', and I'm proud that you're doing this job for yourself instead of hiring someone who is trying to beat a clock.

      Take note of oil pump wear. If you see pieces of metal embedded in the gears, you will immediately know how much stress the pump driveshaft went through (and if anything should be changed). A standard OEM driveshaft got you this far and they usually cost around six bucks. ARP wants three times as much, but all driveshafts are bigger than the weakest link; that tiny rollpin that holds the distributor gear on.

      I hope everything goes well, my friend. - Dave Dare
      Member, Sons of the American Revolution

      CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

      "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
      --Lee Iacocca

      From: Royal Oak, Michigan

      Comment

      • KULTULZ

        #18
        Originally posted by vernz

        I actually wasn't looking for racing oil, but one of the posts last year on what oil to use concluded that modern 20W50 oil came closest to the viscosity of the straight 30W oil that the engine was designed to run on.

        Vern
        Depending on how a HI-PO engine is built, 50W (final weight or straight weight) is norm. That is the final weight of a multi-grade 20W-50. Cold start and the viscosity is 20W, and this allows an easier start and lubrication whereas a straight weight 50 makes for hard cranking and slow lubrication. When a certain engine temp is reached, it becomes 50, heavy enough to lube the larger clearances on a race only engine but much too heavy for a street engine (close tolerances).

        10W-30 (or 40) works in the same fashion. You want immediate lubrication on a cold start and as the engine warms full protection.

        Comment

        • scumdog
          Super-Experienced

          • May 12 2006
          • 1528

          #19
          I have used 20-50 weight in just about every car I've ever had with no problems. (maybe if I was in northern Alaska it might be different.)

          When the motor is cold it is no thicker than 20 weight would be at that temperature.
          When the motor is hot it is no thinner than 50 weight would be at that temperature

          The best of both worlds.

          I change it every three thousand miles and change the oil filter at the same time.

          The 1970 429 Ford in my F100 had had a hard time over the years including some drag-racing etc and has at least 130,000 miles on it.
          Yet when fully warmed up still has 55psi oil pressure at 2,5000rpm, when really hot and idling it drops to 30-35psi.

          When starting on a frosty morning it does jump up to just over 60psi for the first 15 minutes or so.

          BTW: I modified the pan to hold 7 quarts.
          A Thunderbirder from the Land of the Long White Cloud.

          Comment

          Working...
          😀
          🥰
          🤢
          😎
          😡
          👍
          👎