carburetor choice

[KULTULZ]

I just replaced mine and the new one has a much longer "point" (for lack of an actual name) on it so I called the vendor. He said that's the only one they carry so most guys cut it down.

I hate "One-Fits-All" or "It-Should-Work" or even better yet, "They-Are-All-The-Same"...

The original Service PN is CIAZ 9B549-A and can be found NOS on EvilBay.

Here is a repro that looks correct-

http://www.championmustang.com/autolite-2100-4100-series-carburetor-dashpot-w-bracket-p-9848.html

[KULTULZ]

I saw that when I was trying to adjust the fast idle cam. My manual calls it the fast idle lever. Mine is a screw with the head filed down so the fast idle adjusting screw will clear it. I'm pretty sure it not the correct pin being that someone put a filed down screw in there. I had thought that if it were fatter it would seat the secondarys like it should. Here's the picture from the manual with an arrow pointing to where mine has the screw.

Any idea on where to order a new one? Or any carb parts and pieces for that matter?

The PN on that pin is ...sheesh....

I Will Be Back...

I saw your CARB I.D. NO. and this will make everything more accurate...

C5AF-F 1965 FORD 352 C/M

Primary Jetting-

49F (0 to 5000 altitude)
47F (5000 to 10000 altitude)

Secondary Jetting-

67F (0 to 5000 altitude)
65F (5000 to 10000 altitude)
63F (10000 to 15000 altitude)

NOTE- (F after jet size denotes FORD only jets. Early 2100/4100 used HOLLEY jets)

The pin (PIN- FAST IDLE ADJUSTING LEVER) is PN- B9A 9579-B (AUTOLITE CM-912).

You know something? Your secondary diaphragm spring may be weak also preventing full return after activation.

[yellow98cobra]

What is the correct CFM for the 352 fe?

I currently have a Holly 4160 (1848-1), 465 cfm carb on the car. Acording to Summit this is correct for 1960- 352, Amazon says this is not correct and list carbs of 600 cfm or larger. the autolite & autoline 4 barrels I have found for the 352 do not list CFM numbers. I was going to rebuild the one that is on there. But if its not the right one for the car then maybe a correct one should be purchased. I want a car that I can relie on to start run correctly.

[jopizz]

Ford did not use Holley carbs on the Thunderbird 352. The Ford/Autolite 4100 600CFM was the only option.

John

[yellow98cobra]

Thanks John, somwhere it her life it was swapped for the Holly and things were adapted to make it work. so going back I would need to revese those modifactions. Which makes me lean towards rebuilding whats on there. Allthough autolite 4100 carbs dont seem to be really expensive. Does it matter what year or car they came off of?

Ford did not use Holley carbs on the 352. The Ford/Autolite 4100 600CFM was the only option.

John

[jopizz]

All the Autolite 4100's will work that have the 1:12 venturis. Some have an extra vacuum port that has to be plugged and some have a different port on the choke for the heat tube. An Edelbrock 1405/1406 is a good modern alternative.

John

[yellow98cobra]

All the Autolite 4100's will work that have the 1:12 venturis. Some have an extra vacuum port that has to be plugged and some have a different port on the choke for the heat tube. An Edelbrock 1405/1406 is a good modern alternative.

John

I found this one @ jegs... $274.00
1405

http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/1405/10002/-1

[davidmij]

I found these guys just browsing. The guy I talked to was very helpful. You may be able to get the original style Autolite 4100 from them Eric. http://www.carbjunkys.com/
My 1959 T-bird 352 had one on it stock. So did this one I'm working on now - it's from a 1967 LTD with a 390. From everything I've read and found online the Autolite 4100 is an awesome carb, very dependable.

I'll check that secondary diaphragm spring Gary.

Just got home from Santa Fe and my FPA headers are here. Man, they are impressive! Can't wait to get this running this weekend. I sure wish I could find a reasonable 3.89 pumpkin to replace my 3.10. I found one in Albuquerque, but it doesn't have the fill or drain plug. The one in my T-bird doesn't have a plug on the back, just on the 3rd member. I guess I could drill a hole and tap it, or just fill it through the axle by tilting the car. Anyway, I'll worry about that later. If anyone has a pumpkin in the high 3's that they would like to sell let me know.

thx, Dave J

[davidmij]

Hey guys, something I just noticed. If my motor is at TDC, and the timing is at about 6-8 degrees (which seems to run best for this motor) my number 2 and 8 wires on the distributor cap are about where the gray line is on this picture. Is that normal, or should number 2 and 8 be more like this picture at 3 and 9 o'clock?

I'm wondering again if my distributor might be 1 tooth off. Trouble is, I don't know how bad it would run if it was off by a tooth. Would I even be able to set the timing that easily?

thx in advance, Dave J

[jopizz]

Remember that the gear is where the rotor is, not the distributor cap. If you can time the motor correctly and the distributor is not turned so much one way or the other to where the vacuum advanced is all the way left or right then you are good. If you were off by a tooth the vacuum advance would be so far one way or the other you probably wouldn't be able to turn it far enough to time it.

John

[davidmij]

Yup, I understand that part John.
So if the timing is at 0 degrees, and I crank the motor by hand until the number one cylinder is at TDC, my rotor should be pointing mostly to the number one dist cap wire. It should at least be closer to that one than the ones on either side of number one, correct? As long as that is the case then I'm most likely on the correct gear?

I still can't figure out why the secondaries are sticking after I hit them. I even bent the secondary rod shorter so it word pull back more, but it still hangs at about 1/16 inch off the little set screw. As soon as I turn it off and the vacuum drops it goes back to where it should be - or I can just push it down lightly and it stays seated until I floor it again.

Actually, it's acting like the secondary throttle valves are stuck but only when the motor is running and pulling a vacuum. If I move it by hand it gets slightly stuck - like the vacuum is causing it to bind somewhere. As soon as I shut it off it moves freely.

Weird, there's not that much going on and it seems I should be able to see it. Maybe I'll have to pull the carb off and take it apart again.

crap.

[jopizz]

As long as the rotor is pointing to the number one plug with the motor at TDC and the vacuum advance is close to straight ahead you are fine. If the vacuum advance is too far one way or the other then you are probably one tooth off. That doesn't mean the car won't run right. It just means you have no room left to advance it or retard it.

As far as the secondaries go I would still recommend changing the gasket. I've heard from more than one person that it had cured a similar problem. I'm not sure why but for a couple of dollars it's worth trying. If that doesn't work then I'll try to come up with something else. It's a fairly simple system so there can't be much that can go wrong.

Have you looked at the secondary diaphragm or spring. It's possible the diaphragm is leaking or the spring is weak. Both would affect how much force it has to close properly.

John

[simplyconnected]

David, I explained the timing procedure when you changed your timing set. I also urged you to 'degree your crank'. Apparently you did neither.

It is VERY important that your points open when the rotor is directly in front of the correct spark plug post. If your distributor is off by a tooth, spark will happen when the rotor is between terminals (even if you could twist the entire distributor far enough to satisfy the timing light/crank marks).

Go back in my posts and carefully follow the timing setup procedure. When your crank is at TDC, #1 piston could be in its exhaust stroke OR power stroke. - Dave

[KULTULZ]

What Dave said...

I even bent the secondary rod shorter so it word pull back more, but it still hangs at about 1/16 inch off the little set screw.

mmm...

Not recommended.

[davidmij]

Thx John, so are you talking about the large body gasket between the carb and the manifold? I thought you were talking about the secondary diaphragm because you mentioned the 4 open corners. I replaced the diaphragm completely - I'll pull it back off and stretch the spring a little. It just occurred to me that maybe the hinge on the secondary cap is binding when pushed back open after the secondaries have kicked in. It moves freely when the motor is off and I move it by hand, but maybe when it's pushed back by the spring from the inside of the diaphragm it effects the hinge differently. Anyway, I think we've beaten this horse to death, it's just a matter of me looking at it over and over until I see where it's hanging.

As for the timing and dist gears, I'm using a pertronix ignitor so I can't look at the points. But when I advance the timing 8 degrees the vacuum module is pointing at about 1:30 (12:00 would be straight forward) You said, As long as the rotor is pointing to the number one plug with the motor at TDC and the vacuum advance is close to straight ahead you are fine."If the vacuum advance is too far one way or the other then you are probably one tooth off." Is 1:30 straight enough at 8 degrees advanced in your opinion John? It's pretty close to hitting the coolant overflow tank. I can take a picture and post it later today if that'll help. I tried for over an hour yesterday to get the distributor to move one tooth but it just won't drop in that last quarter inch when I do. I got it to go the other way one tooth, but not the opposite way.

thx, Dave J