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  #251  
Old 11-10-2018, 07:11 AM
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Eric, I have some suggestions that I hope you follow when you install the new bushings.

For the upper control arm:
  • Do not hold the pivot shaft in a vise. Let it freely 'float' while the bushings are installed.
  • Do not put pressure on the inner sleeves or on the urethane. That means, no pounding, no vise or press pressure on the inner sleeve, ever. You want to work from the flange.
  • I use a pipe nipple that goes over the urethane to protect it. The nipple's end sits flush on the flange (not on rubber) while the hollow inside touches nothing but it hugs the urethane.
  • Back-up the control arm from the inside. If you have a wooden bench top or a 2x4 about waist high, place one end of the board on the ground and the top end under the arm's inside lip of the bushing you are installing. Then, pound the nipple and bushing in (down) from the outside. This sounds more difficult than it is. I use a vise to hold the 2x4 so it is vertical but still sitting on the ground. The nipple will stay where it is at because it hugs the urethane from the inside. If you need another hand, ask someone to help.
  • Insert one side half-way, then the other side half way so you are sure the pivot shaft is going in correctly. Then proceed.
  • When your bushing gets to the shoulder, stop. You will know when it gets there because insertion resistance increases.

Randy Harsha did his, for the first time ever, without any special tools, in his back yard. I don't use special tools either. You can wait for the tool you ordered but the results will be the same. - Dave
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  #252  
Old 11-10-2018, 04:04 PM
Eric S Eric S is offline
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Dave

what concerns me is that it's exactly what I did the first time !
The only thing is I continued to hammer it and used the wise to hold the shaft AFTER the bushing was on the shoulder and the shaft still loose.
I will make several measures on the new parts and arms when parts gets here and we'll see then.
Maybe Randy did not checked the inner shaft for fore and aft movement? Or I was unlucky...

Also as I said earlier considering the variations in parts dimensions and the lack of adjustment or tuning how can we make sure the parts will pile correctly?

Last edited by Eric S : 11-10-2018 at 06:12 PM.
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  #253  
Old 11-15-2018, 03:42 PM
Eric S Eric S is offline
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New bushings from Larry's Thunderbird arrived today.
They are obviously made in a different area from India and are longer as much as I can tell from the outside comparing from the flange.
The urethane is black, shiny and seems to be harder than the other ones from Bird Nest.
I will have the old ones removed on the special tools I made while waiting for the parts and make more comparisons.
It "looks" like I might not be able to press them all the way to the shoulder but I will have to make more measures.

Question remains as to how much tight I want the inner shaft to be held between both inner sleeves?
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  #254  
Old 11-15-2018, 06:48 PM
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And, your new bushings are different from Rock Auto's offerings because?
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  #255  
Old 11-16-2018, 04:02 AM
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Pictures on dealer's web site are not always accurate and do not show the actual product sometime (Larry's TBird show no shoulder).
Now if you want to know the difference with those from Rock Autos, please feel free to send a set from them so I can study that and make a comparison as I don't intend to order all the bushings made on the planet

I will give those from Larry's a try for now. Hopefully a last try.

Last edited by Eric S : 11-16-2018 at 09:51 AM.
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  #256  
Old 11-16-2018, 08:43 AM
Eric S Eric S is offline
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On UPPER arms, bushings from Bird Nest are out.
On the first 2 pictures, I put the bushings approximatively where the shoulders on the bushings rest against the arm.
As you can see the new bushing from Larry's comes fully in contact with inner shaft.

When both bushings inner sleeves are against the inner shaft, you can see that the new bushing from Larry's has the shoulder still out and so bushing can be driven further than the buhings from Bird Nest
As you can see with caliper, there is about .2" difference.

Last picture is my set up inspired by the Ford manual... With it and a selection of tubes I can remove and install bushings on the upper arms.

SINCE I DID NOT GET A FIRM REPLY, I WILL DRIVE THE BUSHINGS EVENLY ON LH AND RH UNTIL THE INNER SHAFT HAS NO MORE PLAY I CAN FEEL . Hopefuly I can drive the press accurately enough. And no I am not comfortable with a hammer...
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  #257  
Old 11-16-2018, 03:00 PM
Woobie Woobie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric S View Post

Question remains as to how much tight I want the inner shaft to be held between both inner sleeves?
Tight enough that dissassembly will not be required and they will go from the workbench to frame. Once aligned and after adjustments completed that should be it. With this one car...only saying because caster camber would only staighten out after loosening everything and resting the front end on the disks while re-tightening. Not a safe way of working at all.

So then. Things are looking up with those bushings then ?
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  #258  
Old 11-20-2018, 04:13 PM
Eric S Eric S is offline
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Thank you Austin although I am afraid I don't see exactly what you mean.

I did installed upper arms bushings. All went fine. Went with my press and pushed them alternatively and evenly until the shaft is held. I still can rotates the shaft and feel the teeth of the inner sleeve.
Of course I then stopped BEFORE the shoulder stop.

On the Left Hand Lower, I removed the Bird Nest bushings that I MAY have pushed too much in just to stay on the safe side. I am pretty sue they were still usable as they where quite tight.
As a reminder I pushed those old bushings all the way in to the flange but since the arm was not fitting in the frame, I pushed the bushings BACK a bit so I can install the lower arms but then I did not had to use shims on the front of the arms.

So I took them out and installed new bushings from Larry's. Made some measures. Drove them EVENLY in until I can install the 2 shims originally there. I ended using 1 shim only with a very little play still remaining.
Of course the serrations that are designed on the bushing outer slleve to prevent rotation inside the arm do not enter the arm as the bushings has not be driven enough in but can not be if I need to use shims.

I hope I am clear in my descriptions and hope I will get approval so I can proceed with RH Lower arm.
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  #259  
Old 11-22-2018, 03:57 AM
Eric S Eric S is offline
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Hello there
from my notes, manual and pictures I took before disassembling there is no washer under the nut on the Steering Arm / Spindle Connecting Rods connection.
Is that normal?

And nobody wants to comment my bushings assembly below?
I would like to tighten everything next saturday and don't want to make mistakes again...
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  #260  
Old 12-02-2018, 10:14 AM
Eric S Eric S is offline
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Well, arms are installed and all went fine. Sorry I did not get any comment to the process though.

I installed the steering linkage and am having a bad time screwings in the power cylinder end.
Can not get the nut catching the thread as new rubbers are too thick.
Tried to press using c clamps but this is too much difficult with only 2 hands as they tend to slide away.
Any idea?
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