Dave's 390 Build

[Guest]

Some nice parts there Dave ...

could you list your came specs? The stock Edelbrock springs may be marginal for your hyd. roller with the quicker ramps they tend to have. Mike

[simplyconnected]

Yes Mike, I was originally looking for a roller with a duration of ~270* and a lift of ~1/2". This should give me plenty of low end torque, good vacuum and good idle. Comp Cams had one that was perfect and it was 'off the shelf' so no special grinds or fancy prices.

Then I personally got together with Comp Cams and asked them what the spring requirements are in the heads. They said they need a Seat Spring Pressure of 140-150#, Open Valve Pressure of 350#, and a Spring Rate of 400# per inch.
Then I got a-hold of Edelbrock and asked them what springs come standard on their Performer RPM Heads (#60069). Edelbrock said they come with Seat Spring Pressure of 145#, which is perfect for this roller cam. Again, no 'special order' and no special prices.
Here's the cam card:


Most folks don't concern themselves with this kind of data as it becomes transparent. Believe me, Mike is asking the right questions because the answers are VERY important and each application is different. Thanks for asking, Mike. - Dave

[Guest]

Looks like ...

an excellent choice for your build, similar specs to flat tappet cams I've run in several 390/428 builds with great results. The roller cams add some up front cost, but the benefits more than make up for it. Not having to worry about break-in failure and being able to use synthetic oil among them. The HR I'm using in my 433 stroker build is similar to the cam below and has a moderate amount of overlap to help out with the 10.8:1 compression. I upgraded my springs to set of beehives from Comp as I've been wanting to try them out. Really looking forward to getting home and getting this combo installed in my T-bird (2months to go). Cheers, Mike

Camshaft Specs:

PART

NUMBER

Valve Setting

Duration @.050"

Valve Lift @ 1.76:1

33-1516-9

Hyd.

Hyd.

230

236

.598

.610

[simplyconnected]

In my quest to buy these heads, I ran into some info that said, Edelbrock automatically restricts the oil holes that feed the rocker shafts.


Hmmm... this sure doesn't look restricted to me. In fact, it kinda goes along with what redstangbob was saying about, 'too much misinformation online.'

Then I read, brass carb jets screw right in. If anyone has a pair of jets they would like to donate to this very worthy cause, please PM me. I will open them up to ~.090" and tap this hole for them. Thanks in advance. - Dave

[Guest]

Are you lookin for a carb dave? I'll look around I have a couple if you want to mess around with one

[simplyconnected]

Wow! That's very nice offer, Bill. Ray Clark had sent me an old Holley of his. I haven't gone through it and I don't know what it needs. I intend on using it for my Y-Block, but haven't got to it yet. I only need a carb long enough to try this engine out and run it for an hour.

If Ray's Holley strikes out, I might still need a carb. Penelope has a 4-bbl on his 352 that he can use in Australia.

(I really need the fibre plate that goes under the carb for my Y-Block.)

I can't run the C-6 trans before I ship it (dry), but I will mount it, without a torque converter, just to start and run this 390. C-6 bell housings and cases are molded into one piece and, of course, the starter bolts into the bell housing.

At this moment it's 15*F, in mid-Feb. I'd love to get back with you when I know more, later. I sure do appreciate your generous offer, Bill. - Dave

[Guest]

Then we,re havin a heat wave at 25. This is a autolight 4100 off a 65 ford. the only thing missing is the choke spring. Hate to say i had to scrap all my Y block stuff fe stuff gm 327 and a flat head out off a 40 ford stock car. Sold my place and no were to put. The one thing I kept is my toploader out of a 68 torino gt 390 convert. Just let me know

[simplyconnected]

Bill, my heart is bleeding. I know someday, I'll have to do the same (Robin complains that our kids will have to clean up my 'mess'). Until then, I'm going to hang on to everything I spent 60 years trying to acquire. Nothing irks me more than having to buy something I threw out a month ago.

Let me give you something for the Autolite 4100. They clean up nicely. Use my email address and I'll call you:
simplyconnected@aol.com

[lawyercalif]

I noticed the exhaust manifolds looked like truck types. Will they work in the TBird or will he have to use his 352 manifolds?

[simplyconnected]

A lot has happened since my last post... The block passed all tests with flying colors. It is now a guaranteed good seasoned block.

After careful scrutiny, we have decided to bore the block to 4.040" because there was a faint line down one cylinder. Let me back up. I noticed, when I pulled one piston out, one of the rings immediately fell out. I took pictures of this ring because it looked almost new. The break was directly opposite the ring gap, and that area caused a line in the bore.

Notice the area between the red lines. This edge caused the line in the cylinder.

Here it is flipped over.

No problem, thirty thousandths would have cleaned it up, but I'm going forty (just to make **** sure). Remember, taking forty off really means taking twenty off each side. Being a truck block means there is plenty of meat left for down the road, if need be.

The crank is good, but borderline for standard sized bearings. I will have it ground ten thousandths on the main journals and ten thousandths on the pin journals. I want this crankshaft's pins round and true, not egg shaped.

I picked out some Federal Mogul pistons at 9.2:1. I'm comfortable that with aluminum heads, regular 86-87 octane (91-92 RON) lead-free gasoline or 10% gasohol will work just fine.

I will have the connecting rod bushings checked for wear and replaced if need be. When done, I will balance the rods so that each end weighs the same (as each other), then all the rods weigh the same. When pistons come in, they will all weigh the same. Then the bores will match the piston sizes.

After these changes, the crankshaft will be balanced to the new piston, wrist pin, rings and rod weights (with bearings), then this engine will run smooth. - Dave

[simplyconnected]

I noticed the exhaust manifolds looked like truck types. Will they work in the TBird or will he have to use his 352 manifolds?

Penelope will have his 352 exhaust manifolds milled flat, then bolt them directly on his new Edelbrock Performer RPM aluminum heads.

[Guest]

Exhaust ...

kind of a shame to use those heads and the roller cam and then stick it with those exhaust manifolds. They are going to kill power big time. A set of shorty headers would be a big improvement. Mike

[simplyconnected]

Mike, that's true but I look at it the other way; Penelope never had headers, so he never realized the 10-15% boost. Having said that, at low to mid rpm, there isn't much difference and cast exhaust manifolds are quieter.

I do like the reduction in weight with headers. I like the fact that headers don't warp like iron but they are louder. This engine should be nearly as quiet as 'stock' but more powerful on regular gas.

[simplyconnected]

More goodies arrived today...


The good stuff... Edelbrock FE Performer RPM Intake Manifold




FelPro gasket Master set


Federal Mogul Main and Rod bearing sets.




Melling High Volume oil pump and a new Drive Shaft.
The block is nearly complete. It was baked, magnafluxed, shot peened, bored, honed, align bored, squared, decked, and the oil modifications are being done now. Soon, I will start on the crankshaft. The mains and pins will be ground .010" to make sure they are round and straight. I'm balancing the rods, pistons, rings, and pin bearings. As soon as I'm done, I will have the right numbers for the bob weights to balance the crankshaft. - Dave

[Guest]

Pretty!
Richard D. Hord